Category: Opel Omega & Senator Forum

Hello guys… I got a X30XE engine at the Schrotti, which has 143,000 Km on the clock and gives 480 Euronen with a month warranty. As usual without attachments, like LiMa, KK and Starter. Interestingly is that Schrotti pays the old heart with 100 Euronen, if I bring it back to him. So I pay 580 toads and get 100 of them again…. I can’t do a heart transplant on the doorstep, so he has to be a screwdriver with the necessary tools… I start the week already to pluck out everything that doesn’t resist…. Greeting Jürgen

servus, I used the search but found nothing satisfying. had searched for “sleep badly” and I had a lot of nothing better… there was a contribution to the MV6 and as a solution the ignition light switch was called. I exclude this solution option somehow, because I absolutely don’t know what the ignition light switch has to do with a warm motor… no matter how cold it jumps quite firmly, warm organ I’ve been replaced forever… the ignition candles (i.e. a shitty work in the left bank with large fins) and the air filter. air on the wrong way I almost shut out, because I’ve flooded the engine room almost with brake cleaners. only the rubber from the empty running switch seems a bit easy for me and wacky. but also here purposefully spraying with brake cleaners did not change the flow. I have a small theory: motor temperature sensor defective. MSTG thinks the cold machine is cold, it’s cool and it doesn’t work properly.

Hello, I’m supposed to repair the Omega for a well-known…. The track rod heads are completely in the egg (while driving the tires from right to left nd steering wheel has 5cm game) a new endpot should be under, and above all what’s wrong with the diff and or the drive shafts…. at the beginning I noticed that the car in very narrow curves that you drive slowly strongly vibrates and a rear tire is significantly more worn out than the other… Now when driving is permanently such a beating noise to hear.. If you drive quickly, then something cracks really loud… now I wanted to ask how long it takes diff and drive shafts to repair… and what do the parts need to cost the grotti? mfg

Hello Junx I had already written a few days ago because my omi didn’t go on now I changed the following camshaft sensor crankshaft sensor both relays (pink) all together 312 euro (opel) now I signed up at the adac and then I also had to come two times the first thought it was the camshaft sensor therefore I bought it also SOFORT however was nothing to do even with startspray went the car yesterday I didn’t mean to my better half not that the ignition plugs are full of oil because then he would also nciht approach because over the oil then the cylinders would get the sparks and the motor would not even jump on (the adac confirmed the ignition spark io are) now I was just down and on the left bench I turned out a ignition plug with am plugged down was already all clear to me the plug was oilker was full of oil too. now the question is to get the full piece of ignition is also full of me?

Hello guys, recently I am the owner of an Omega B Facelift with automatic transmission. Now I would like to know the following: If the light is switched off, the inserted driving step is shown to me by a small illuminated point to the right of the scheme. If the light is switched on (i.e. at night), only the scheme is illuminated and the light point disappears. The selected driving step is also not indicated by a different colour or brighter light. Is this somewhat stutzig, which of other models I am used to differently. Is that so normal, or is there a mistake here?

Hello,but I bought new speakers yesterday. Previously the original Omega B speakers were in there. The new ones are not the best ones but should be enoughhttp://www.caraudio-store.de/product_info.php?products_id=8121 Autoradio is original CD 500 or so I’m not sure Now to my problem, if you turn the system a bit louder, the speakers sound so terrible. So they sound almost as bad as my original speakers.Only the new ones have 80 watts more power than the old ones. Why is that?Because it can’t be that the new ones are just as bad as my old 30 watt speakers? Is it perhaps due to my car radio? Would I look forward to a few answers =) I’m really disappointed and for that I have also spent 50euro. I hope you can help me further Thanks

Dear Omega friends, I know you’re very surprised about this topic in the Omega Forum. Honestly, I’d be amazed myself if I didn’t know you could help me anyway. I don’t know how the users are in the Volvo Forum, but I know that I don’t really need them, because you can help me 1000 times better. I copy my contribution from the Volvo Forum quote: Dear Volvo Community, I wanted to change the cylinder head seal at the Volvo V40 from my girlfriend. He’s already 250tkm and by the smell in the cooling water and its loss, it’s already indicated. But after I had the head down, I noticed that he has cracks and can’t be used anymore. I’m shocked. he has at least 5, 1cm long cracks and still ran like on the first day. If I hadn’t had a bit of an idea, I wouldn’t even come to the idea of getting the thing down. But now it’s down and I’m looking for a new used cylinder head. Maybe one of you has a clue where I’m coming from? It’s a 1.9 TD4192T with 66kW year of construction.

Hello dear motor-talker… I have been reading in this wonderful forum for years now. Perhaps you can help me. I now own the 3rd Omega now a B Caravan Facelift 2.5 year 1999 and I am always well “dangered” with the living rooms. About 4months ago many tacho, ABS and ESP out. Unfortunately always only sporadically so that a read out of the error in the workshop of my trust did not bring of course nothing, because always when I was there everything went…! Now the part (probably ABS sensor) completely lose me and I drove without tacho, ABS and ESP also well. Since it snows now and I don’t want to miss out on the helpers I have brought the omi into the workshop. Result: ABS control unit is gone because I drove so long without ABS sensor! Such a part costs without installation 1.040€!! Now my question: Can someone tell me where I get this cheaper? How does this device exactly mean? What can I do without giving all the Christmas money? Many thanks for the help, Benno from Berlin!

Thanks to all the pins and pins, I can’t get ahead of the pins and pins. I’ve read a lot of comments and problems on this topic, and now I’m on the spot. to the car: Opel Omega 2.2 DTI 16V to2: 0035 to3: 4140012 Year of construction 10.2000 Problem: Main interior lighting can’t be switched on via the door contacts or the main light switch. The two lights go on in the doors, so I keep a mass interruption for improbable. The main interior lighting remains for the time window of approx. 20 sec. after closing and dimming down (as far as I’ve known the 3 fuses for the lighting). I’ve bought the lamp profilatically times at 3,2,1 as needed but without success. In addition, I can’t remember the main switch again and I’ve been looking for the lighting.

Now I wanted to ask, to what extent are the heads actually allowed to be crooked – in the longitudinal and plan direction??? And what do you think, is it better to mill them or rather grind them???? I found only this here in the forum:However, the engine repair shop said that the heads are crooked. 1/3mm “unplan”. Quer is probably 1/10mm and length 5/100mm allowed. However, in my eyes this is soon more a question than an answer! And that the head on the shorter distance may be more crooked than on the longer distance would be a little incomprehensible for me! Have both possibilities at work, but I would prefer to grind, since the surfaces are a bit finer and smoother?!!!!