Category: Opel Omega & Senator Forum

Hello everyone, have the following problem: At the rear axle of my omis sounds are audible and that is: – At the straight run and at left curves sounds are strongly audible. – At right curves nothing is audible – In the decoupled state ( idling) the noises are quiet question, do I have a problem with the wheel bearing, the drive shaft or the differential? Thanks Greeting Didä

Hello, Juniors Y22XE does not have any oil pressure after the oil change when starting. Only after a speed increase to approx. 2.500 1/min for a few seconds the pressure increases and the lamp goes off. At the immediate new start, the lamp goes off immediately after the start. Filled oil LM 10W40 – oil is enough inside. After reading the thread No oil pressure with cold engine I did not really come to a solution, because of the TE no feedback is available (or I have In any case, I will change the oil pressure switch prophylactically. I will also renew the filter, whereby it is illogical for me that the problem lies here – because what is pumped into it also comes out again – but it is the only part that was dipped during the oil change and before that everything was in order. As the last thing I must then remove the oil pressure control valve. Is there perhaps any other tips that I have not found? LG robert

One or the other will certainly say: why a new topic about the timing belt change, but so far I have not found a complete report about the change in a 2.6 V6 here in the forum. The link: http://www.car-selfrepair.de/workshop4/workshop4_index.htm I already know and all other wisdoms I have from the Etzold book, 9th edition. Otherwise I have over 20 years of screwdriver experience and accordingly also tools, but a timing belt change I still have n he made and is on my list: “What I always wanted to do in my life.”, at the top. To the facts: 2.6 V6 (Y26SE) 1. Change 05/2006 at 53.678 km Change interval 4 years/60,000 km 2. Change planned: 05/2010 at 113.678 km Condition: 03/2012 with 110.650 km So I am now 22 months above and about 3,100 km below. (Conclusion: the part has to be out. We don’t need to discuss this) is planned: – Buy timing belt set with tension rollers from Contitech – Arresting , similar to: http://www.fluidonline.de/…/ or also like to borrow my questions: – does the suction bridge have to be taken out with the 2.6? – do I need a lifting platform or can I also screw comfortably in the yard under the open sky? – can anyone explain to me the adjustment work that has to be done after the straps have been put on? – how is the tensioning of the rollers? and finally: is there someone in Leipzig or surroundings who already has such a work e I would like to help – I would also drive a piece

Hello Forumian, recently changed the control chain to my senator and disassembled half the engine! So, the engine runs problem-free, but it lights up as I said the mud roller lamp in the cockpit. With the own Tech1 error read out and there came said FC 31 and 94. What can or should I do to fix this error? Can this be called that the corresponding parts are defective or does that mean something else? I would be very happy about a helpful answer! Thank you to all of you

Hello together, in the fuel return line, i.e. from the engine to the tank, there is a fallback valve installed somewhere in the B-Omega. Where exactly is this installed and what function does it have? My Omega sometimes starts a bit heavy at the moment. But I don’t know if this has anything to do with it. Petrol pump and filters are already new, fuel lines have also been renewed. As well as the spark plugs, ignition cables and DIS module. Now I still have this fallback valve. I suspect, because I just think that the petrol pressure is lost somewhere when it stands longer. This valve can’t be there to hold the petrol pressure, can it? The valve must be so built in that I have passage to the tank. So the fuel pressure would also degrade through this valve. Thanks for your help. Mfg

Hello ! my Omega went out today at the traffic light just so times and for the time being it was not possible to start. Then the MKL was on and stayed on. Further attempts to start the engine was unsuccessful. He only let himself start with full throttle and that then very bad. With each 3.-4. traffic light he goes out again and the whole starts from the beginning. So first off to the FOH, error memory read out. “Your crankshaft sensor is defective” Cost approx. 140 Euro plus installation ! Since Friday and after 17 o’clock be of course there was no chance anymore to do what was already at work. So it was decided that I will come back on Monday. Meien asks now: Can I drive until Monday without thinking ? (MKL constantly at) Should the DZM not also fail if the KWS is defective ? (DZM works)

hello together have bought me an old omega bj 2001 2,6ltr. v6 .a fantastically beautiful car.new price 71.000 DM.152000km running power 1. hand . new tüv timing belts lt. rchn. changed at 125000km 2015. what can go wrong?!? and that for 3000€ so far so good. drive to home.(25 km) wants to drive away the next day then start the motor rappelts horribly.motor aus.new start brings nothing. colleague called the had already a bad feeling,u checked the compression. ite(seen from the front)zyl.1 – 14 bar,.zyl. 3 – 13,5, nr 5 – 0 (row 1-3-5) right side nr.2 -0 nr-4 nr 6 -14 bar.er meant timing belts skipped,and valve smashed.on the timing belt itself you can see nothing. now my question: . how can this happen after not even 30000km of running power? (shop naturally refuses warranty) 2. question you can repair this motor without I go broke. my colleague says: he can’t!too complicated and also expensive.opelwerkstatt I dare mic h not to ask at all. so my dream car becomes a nightmare car. lwho can give me a done what to do now?? l.g. dick-29

I changed the computer the other day with my station wagon because of pixel errors. Knows well. At the new (used) BC everything is ok. The only thing wrong is that it constantly shows the range between 600 and 700 km. I tried everything, pulled plugs and reconnected and even filled up fully. But did everything work out. Maybe someone have a solution for me? Thanks already in advance. Scoty 1

Hello and good evening, today I have somehow something strange to notice. I drove today all day and gears work as I was always used to until now. Suddenly much to me that when giving gas the speed goes up first and then the speedometer goes down slowly and then pulls first. It is normal that when giving gas it switches down and then pulls and tachometer goes up until it switches again. It seems to me that like when a coupling The first 2 gears only go so far with the third or fourth gear. Can this also be that it is due to the charging pressure and it slips through so? Have I just seen at the LLK that this is black or smeared on the side of motor oil? Do you know such a strange behavior? Many nice greetings, Christian

Unfortunately, I have a problem with my Lambda probe again, although it was exchanged only a few months ago for an original brand probe. I guess now a cable break and would like to know from you which values I have to measure. So far I have found here in the forum: (in brackets my measured value, all measured on the connection cable, so not on the Lambda probe!) A–> Mass 4-6V (4.3V) B–> Mass >5V (5.01V) C–> Mass >11V (12V) B–>D >100kohm (30kohm) Da ic h I’m not sure at the last value whether this is true at all, I wanted to ask you if there is a cable break or if I have measured it wrong. Otherwise: Can the Lambda probe give up its mind within a few months? Greetings