Category: Opel Omega & Senator Forum

have a few questions about the Opel Omega a bj 12.10.1993 85kw/115ps 2l Automatic got today a rust fever Opel Omega got only no idea of Opel Omegas now I have a few questions 1. has the Opel rear or front drive 2. is it an egg splash or carburetor 3. is it expensive in the insurance ? 4. what does it consume on average for a sprite 5. it is quite interesting how much ps the Automatic needs

With my Omega Caravan 2.5 DTI I had the problem of the foggy disks again and again. Also – and straight! – I had to fight with a lack of visibility in wet-cold weather. An exchange of the interior filter and the control of the processes did not bring a solution. At some point the FOH had to get there. Result: 1. the heater does not work. Was known, however, this was certainly not the riddle solution. Expensive!!! 2. The cooling water thermostat no longer closes. Could have been more of a reason for the evil, as the heating power was rather modest overall. So exchange, also not quite cheap. After that the FOH did not know any more, because the fogging remained. Why I write this now: thanks to this forum I came to the solution: the “hanging” air valve at the cold start was! Since I once briefly switched to circulating air, then again to fresh air, It’s all back in butter, the car doesn’t beat any more. A warm thank you to all the whistleblowers! I would have another question: since the tendency is now to let in cars with green badges in the so-called environmental zones, but my omi only has yellow: does someone know the current price situation for the installation of a soot filter incl. Kat? My car is with just 90000 km on the clock much too bad to throw away, but I have to go into a city now and then. The residual values of these cars are so low that there is no question of selling at acceptable prices.

Hello, Since my Omega A gave some loud noises while starting and went to the knees, we thought of the starter (magnet or similar). So let a younger used one be built in by an Omega B. Now it’s even worse. Weird. It shouldn’t lie on the ground. The engine was put extra to a mass for the test. The same after the 3rd start-test again….The “stay hanging until the suffocation and tear away again”(metallic scraping/cracking) (so it sounds…) kicks. In the meantime, every 2nd-3rd start process with both petrol and LPG operation. No matter if cold or warm engine. Otherwise, he jumped in the morning immediately and only when he was warm the problem came up again. Now already in the morning the same thing. But then it runs after all. My battery must be really great. It seems to me like a “eater” who dissolves by force again. Can this be?? If you don’t let go of the ignition key when starting, even though the engine stays stuck, rotates It also smells like gasoline while driving. It’s to despair…I thought I had bought a well-preserved, cheap (because of LPG system) vehicle. I drove only with gasoline the day before yesterday..also no change…did anyone have an idea? Can it be due to the gas combustion? I have no advice anymore…Dreavage…

Hello, I have just searched for threads on this topic with the search function, but found nothing really up to date. Maybe it’s because the filters are only available now. I have the following problem: For the upcoming TÜV I would have to exchange the oxicate with my 2.2 DTI, since it is now in a state of total resolution. As I have read, the other has probably already done so. Of course, it’s close to the oxicate. This is also much cheaper than a new oxicate because of the 330€ control clearance. Now I read on the HJS page that there are different variants of particle filters. Does the particle filter replace the oxicate with the 2.2 DTI or is it additionally installed ? (the latter would be quite stupid for me of course) Does anyone already have this with the 2.2 DTI and how are first practical experiences? Performance, consumption etc.? Greeting tungsten

Hello Opelaner I’m looking for an Omega again. Today I looked at 110TKM with an Omega 2.2 16V BJ 11/99 The car even has a removable trailer coupling. What I actually wanted to know, is there something to pay special attention to with the Facelift? I had about 1 year ago an Omega V6 Caravan BJ 99 (the one without facelift) and was not very happy with the thing (rust, cardan shaft, clutch/backstocking and keeping the processing g). The newer Omega will definitely give me a better impression. But I would be happy to give you some tips on what to pay special attention to. Thank you in advance.

The following problem: I recently had a test with about 50% E85. my Omi (Omi A 2,6i Caravan) ran without any problems. However, there was an additional consumption of about 1.5-2l /100. I was able to refuel E85 for 0.96 EUR. Unfortunately, the tank is not exactly around the corner, so I left it at the try. Now I have already refuelled 5-6 times, only the consumption is still as high as with E85 Mix. My driving pr ofil: about 40% city 30% Bab 30% landstr. consumption before test: 10-12litres after test up to 14 liters (display BC but also measured) Has someone an idea mfg MM

Yesterday, in a traffic jam, a BENZ drove me into my lightning. The coach was pushed a little together, the tailgate was totally dented, the bottom pan pressed together and the towman came through the underfloor. And today, the expert confirmed that it was economically totally damaged. And now I will probably have to look for a new one.

Hi guys, I saw today on my way to work to see my right NSW beat up and then I looked in and there was the pear burst?!? How can something like that happen that a pear bursts. And that the stupid thing is leaking, is also quite great even though it’s a ZKW. Now I wanted to get a new pear on the way home. Which come in there. I know I could look at my manual but I don’t have that at work at hand. both pears change ? And how can I get the NSW closed again ?? Questions about questions ….. Greeting Bender

Hello all! My Omega B X20XEV has now 270,000km on the speedometer. For some time I have had regular oil loss (approx. 1L on 1,000km) and considerable cooling water loss (approx. 1.5L on 20km!!!). My FOH had already informed me that the cylinder head seal is leaking. However, he advised me not to (or explained the risk) to renew it, since the pressure, resulting from a “tight” seal, is too great for the old engine and I therefore after the repair What do you think about this? Do you have experiences? Thank you for any help and tips! Greetings Marc

When upgrading my omi with cruise control I somehow can’t get any further. The cruise control works, only the function of the clutch switch is not given. The voltage arrives at the switch, it also switches very well, but the black-brown cable obviously has no connection with the blue-black cable, which arrives at the cruise control. According to the schematic this should be done directly. So far I also found no possibility of this cable at distinctive St The cable from the cruise control box goes through the spray wall, that is, behind the passenger airbag. If this cable is perhaps passed near the radio, I could measure it. And if I just want to pull a new cable, I’m practically faced with the same problem: somehow I have to expand the whole dashboard, too. to move it meaningfully…