Category: Opel Omega & Senator Forum

So I have an Omega B Caravan 2.5 DTI built in 2002 and wanted to get me the EVO Star rims in the size 8.5Jx20″ with ET35, after a long search I found some posts where inside it fits and also many the wrote that it does not fit, what can you believe now ?? So with a tire dimension of 235 30 R20″ and the 8.5Jx20″ rims there should actually be no problems or yet ? I wanted to lower the Omega now 30/30 with Eibach springs and front Bilstein B6 shock absorber pure I read in an article that you can set the sensor differently with Opel, what only interests me fits the press-in depth of the rims ? Not that afterwards the tires or the rim on the spring leg grinds and fits the distance to the spring plate still ? Well I would be very grateful if someone knows and-or could teach me something

Hello, this is really cheap and will probably make for some smiles. I had planned today to exchange the winter shoes (steel) for the summer flaps. However, I failed. At the front left the wheel cannot be removed. Rims + axles are the same as in the past 2 years. I also know the phenomenon of rusted rims. Have already experienced this with several vehicles. With some persuasion art it was always possible. So far the following versuc ht: – Rostlöser 3/4 Dose – also comes out nicely between disc and rim, just as on the scar – from the inside with force on the tire to the outside Conclusion: nothing. Everything moves, but not the rim… Several people had already tried it today – everyone wanted to try it and then also failed. At the corresponding effort of force vs. rust it did not seem to matter. Must say that the rims are only extremely close. I guess that the rim itself could have “lightly” changed. The game of hissing scar and rim is perhaps < 0.5 mm. Therefore, the game with the wire brush is always the same. Does anyone still have a tip? PS: the tire service also relies on great power. However, this did not survive the axle adjustment at my Toyota at the time. Greetings to Christian

Hello Omi-Gemeinde, my wife was yesterday with the Omi to the AU and HU at the TÜV. The badge for the AU was without problems because all values were correct, but with the HU it looked not so good. The examiner found the following defects: 1: Ablendlicht setting too low 2: Battery: coverage missing 3: drive: oil loss 4: brake discs front corrosion formation Now I have some questions and hope that she can answer me: A) What the hell is a cover for the battery? Ic b) What does the TÜV mean with rust formation on the brake disc? The surfaces on which the blocks rub are mirror-blank and the outer wreath I know only with rust base. C) The omi loses now for a few days strongly oil. If the engine is okay, as soon as my wife starts the omi throws out the oil. It can be clearly seen that it is by the lower screw (driver side) of the oil tank. Around this screw everything is dry, only d he screw itself is wet. (Of course, the screw is properly tightened!) For me, this looks like the oil is running along the inside of the transmission bell, but I didn’t know until today that it has to go there at all. Who knows the problem???? I am grateful for every answer, because I want to get this over with quickly.

Hi guys, why is the omme on the driver’s side heavier than on the passenger’s side???? short to the explanation how I noticed that… I drove over the train on Friday. On the A2 my temperature indicator has climbed promptly to 100 degrees. To the right and see there is no fan running but it may not have been wind, but no matter fan is pushed to the highest level and finished thermostat controlled goes up. Continued driving and again reached 100 degrees. 36 degrees outside Tem.) and promptly 97 degrees. Couldn’t drive with heating because of my little son and our dog. So climate on and again 100 degrees. There’s actually only one cause left WASSERPUMPE. Oh man. Well in Berlin on the Frankfurter was called to me the too stupid with the omme, yellow angel. Hardly at the hacking he hangs on the left side deeper than right comical look. WHY??

Attention!!! I don’t know here is the market place but ! This week my old Ommi goes to the scraper He is registered on Euro4 Available is 4* Alus , engine is disassembled due to the engine damage And everything else is still inside out seats and door boards !!! Who needs to report quickly otherwise everything goes to the scraper because I have no place to slaughter! Ps: Manual climate he also has ! Greetings

night together … … yesterday with a couple of buddies a little too much drunk, became overcrowded and was the opinion that I was the scrap golf 5 gti, from one of the buddies loosely wake up. now we have arranged for the next weekend, acceleration race. both automatic, he 2.0 turbo and my one 2.5 v6. though I don’t think I’m the pack, but I want to see how big the difference is. and now my question: I’m used to the switch, to the ampel, played with the gas and ku from the post I can turn the speed up to N and then pull D in ? or do I do the gearbox in the a…….sch.

Hello world, it’s time again, my omme is ticking around again (was also time after 1 week ) As soon as the omme is standing a little longer (so 1-2 days) it starts off really badly and the MKL lights up briefly.Then a discreet “knall” comes and everything starts from the front,so 2-3 times until it runs. If I press “S”-button at the gearbox and sometimes give really full throttle then fix it completely burned and man hears the banging again when switching. The sound comes from the area of the cat ́s. What can that be?MKL is out and otherwise he drives normally. Oh, how do I set the clock in the MID? Thank you and greetings

Hello dear people! First of all, I know that it is not necessarily legal what I do but I would like to leave the jz out of it – it’s all about the subject matter! So as already stated in the title I have on my Omega A 2.0 L 8 V a self-welded duplex exhaust system on it. The basis were the original end pot, which was cut open, cleaned out and welded again. In addition, the pipe between the end pot and end tube was cut open, and a second pipe mi t same diameter welded up that goes past the tank to the right and then comes out to the right next to the tow hook. As tailpieces was made quasi “Forstinger Tuning”, pure to the optics which should then contribute to the sound nothing. I think Forstinger also exists with you in Germany or? So my question, contrary to all expectations, you hear almost nothing from the exhaust, he has a nice, discreet gushing from the outside, but that was unfortunately also already. Duplex has welded, has used the same principle on its Mitsubishi Colt, a 1.6 L 16 V. And if he goes away from home, I hear him come already (about 5 km or more). What does that matter? With the 2 L of the Omega you have to hear something or? Or is it just because the Colt is a 16 V, or that it is shorter by a corner? Besides, what about the conversion of the Omega from 8 V (116 hp) to 16 V (150 hp)? ‘n more familiar has all sorts of things at home, and also the need for He meant to rebuild his head is not a problem he has 2 times at home, and also MSTG of 16 V he has enough, only the only thing he doesn’t know, is whether the motor wire harness of 8 V and 16 V fit together? What he offered me to create a little bit of sound was to cut out the middle pot (which is completely rusty anyway) and weld in a kind of medium pot of nem Honda Civic. Only this medium pot seems to be not a normal medium. opf, but consists of several chambers that compress the exhaust gases, and then push them out with more pressure. At least he explained that to me. What do you think about it? What would be the better alternative? Thanks for the answers Greetings Marek

First of all a hello to all and a big praise to this forum. I have been reading here for a long time and have already found one or other tip. But now it seems that I have to post a problem. The pump named in the title does not work. It is the pump under the coolant tank. We got it, because I get only lukewarm air in the stand gas into the vehicle. As soon as you increase the speed, (be it only to 1000 rpm) the system heats with v after an excursion into the electronics of the Omega and various tested relays we discovered this pump at some point and found that it does not get any power. If you switch it directly, humming it like a bee. We then tried everything as described in various forums, but there is never a signal at the pump. Then we arrived at the point where we don’t know any more. Based on current flow plans we found out that d he pump is directly controlled by the climate control. Therefore the question: Why does the climate control not switch the pump ?

Hello Opelfans, I noticed on the WE on the way back from Germany at the last refuelling, that the engine was running in a restless way, but nothing further thought about it, because when accelerating everything was normal. The weather was nice… (dark and heavy rain) so that I only saw at a traffic light just before home that comes out of the exhaust of strong, white smoke. So immediately on the right, the temperature indicator climbed into the red area, then directly out of the engine. As an alternative, I thought of having a new, used engine installed, the price would be the same as the ZKD change. My question now to the specialists: How high is the probability that the head has changed? There were 70Km highways from the tank to the traffic light on which the temperature indicator was quite normal. And, if I let the engine change, I run the danger that the bends would cause me Is it supposed to be an omega disease? Questions about questions, but I would like to drive my beloved omi even further, just not at any price. LG from Austria from the Uwe