Category: Opel Omega & Senator Forum

A bought a car for 1000 euro from B Privat 4 days ago.A noticed on the same day that the car loses coolant.A Was after 4 days in 2 workshops the A made a cost estimate of 700 euro for the reperature or exchange of the heaterCooler is the defect.A believes the Privt salesman B hit him over the ear because B had driven the car himself only 2 weeks after he had bought it from a dealer.A believes the Käu A has now asked the private seller B to take the car back or to take over the repair costs, B does not want to do this.B says he did not know anything about the damage.In the purchase contract it says (Committee of Guarantees”>Guarantee”).This committee does not apply to claims for damages arising from liability for material defects which are based on intentional or grossly negligent violation of obligations of the seller.)Has A a c Is it necessary to give the dealer the B 1 year guarantee from which the car was bought from the B 4 weeks ago?Is the warranty of the dealer from B to A the third one?Or does A now remain on the harm as the last stupid sitting alone? I would be very happy about an answer. MfG Omega

Hello It’s about an Omega 2.0 l – 16V – BJ.98 I bought this 2.5 years ago from a dealer in Bavaria and I got totally fucked up what turned out later. Among other things, you pay attention to everything when buying, but you don’t think to fold the bench. It only struck me after 4 months when I wanted to fold the bench. It only went down to half, because it was totally bent and spoiled, although so nothing turned out. How this could happen is a mystery to me, angeblic h also no accident. Complaints did not help me, it was not a new car, and it was an agency sale without guarantee. Now a question to you: If such a back seat for me that would be great, should be affordable, the car had cost me a lot of money and nerves the last time. Bench for Omega Caravan 2.0 l – 16 V, Built 98, Kopstützen can be folded, 3 point belt in the middle, color black, 2 divided. I hope I have more luck here in the forum. Thanks. MFG Bullysamler

Hello, I got an OBD2 plug and the demo-SW used by Kurt. Which is not possible – with USB via an RS232 adapter. So – other laptop with serial interface, SW installed and already running the thing, more or less. We tried it on the Y22XE and on the Y25DT and got quite well with it. Now my questions to Kurt: Is there somewhere a table with target values – I tried the search, but did not find it. OBD2 plugs for VAG driving The OBD interface is actually standardized – or does Opel go its own way. If the USB version is working, the newer OP-COM SW verse 080827 should also run, which is looking for a USB interface (including drivers) in the test. LG robert

hello to each other. I’m looking for repa-plates for a Senator B. especially for end-tips or sleeper sets (wanted to make them complete if immediately) as well as everything else there is. the frame carriers are in an absolutely new condition (thanks to the previous owner) I don’t need anything for luck. what I need are swollen as I said and if it’s cheap the wheel run in the door edge (outside wheel run I build myself) I have looked up to now at PS-auto parts, Leidinger, ATP, Pro-Parts and of course Ebay, but there you get only scrap brakes and coupling rods indicated. with leidinger or PS-car parts stand at Schweeller Omega A, fit these to 95%? gruss, patrick. PS: are there door approaches for welding in? (bottom edges, forn corsa there is e.g.)

Hello together, when I was hanging in the engine room yesterday, I noticed that it is not too close to my valve cover seal. Would they like to change now. Are there any kiffs and tricks that I need to know? Gruss Micka

Hello I would be happy about Spurrillen insensitive summer tire recommendations in 225/55-R16. Would someone have experiences for an Omeg-B-combi-front which he can communicate? At the moment I was pleased with the Hankook Ventus Prime K105. Does someone drive a lot in the above-mentioned size on the Omi? I would also be interested if one can exclude from the different tire profiles whether the tires Spurrillen is sensitive on the Omeg? I have no idea how to I just picked out a few keywords from the tire descriptions. -Running directional tyre profile -V-shaped profile -Rille profile -Asymmetrical pattern -Depth longitudinal grooves Alias

Hello, one thing in advance: yesterday I used the search all day, but unfortunately I am as smart as before. That’s why I created a new thread out of my despair, because I still can’t narrow down what my Omega (2.0, 16V, 100kw, BJ 1995, X20XEV) could have. Yesterday’s research day here in the forum led me to the following possible causes. – Petrol pump – Ignition cable – Ignition plug – Ignition coil – NWS – KWS – Drosselkklappe But let’s get to the concrete problem: I The car ran perfectly, except some start problems in the cold months. Then at the beginning of March 2009 there were first problems with the gas giving. At full throttle, e.g. during the overtaking, there was only a jerking down then the performance fell. From then on followed days, on which the Omi had nothing and ran perfectly, and then there were days, on which the car suddenly could not even bring more than 2000 or 3000 revolutions power, in idle everything I called the ADAC 4 times! 1. ADAC visit – suggestion to change LMM. LMM changed, but now the car didn’t start. 2. ADAC visit – error code read out. Nothing found. Then the fuses checked. Those of the gasoline pump replaced. Car jumped again. The next but no more 3. ADAC visit – error code read out – gasoline pump relays replaced. Car jumped again, but to the surprise it was like before the replacement of all parts. 4. ADAC visit – car MKL lights up – read out error code, yet nothing found – car towed with the recommendation to replace the throttle flap. 5. car in workshop, read out error code, found nothing. car ran faultlessly again. contacts sprayed on and that was it. In addition, the recommendation to replace the NWS, because the insulation shows a slight crack On last Saturday I picked up the car from the workshop, it ran faultlessly. On Sunday it jumped sc hon again bad and the jerking was back again – even in idle mode nothing went more than 2000 revolutions. Yesterday, however, it started immediately and it ran again impeccable. I am really desperate. Does anyone have an idea? The strangest thing is that you can already make out at the start whether it is going well or not. Thank you in advance for the help Markus

Moin. I looked at Caravan A today, was idiosyncratic very surprised how he looks like, the only thing that was noticeable in the first moment, that he was already spat at the rear right door at the lower back corner and that had burst off, then I wanted to close it up, but also went only to the driver’s side, well tried it is, was not so other battery fetched and she as it will be light. then at the start everything was top, but then I fell like scuff from the eyes, wase r in the footroom, looking at the driver side, the same thing also on both sides, where does that come from??? I looked, push down the drains, look great can’t be, then thought, well looked around bitsle, found nothing only then I thought first of all ventilation and there had cihnen river in the car, the water came out on the left and right at the foot vent, then looked for cool water, dry like anything else of the tank. So I guess the heat exchanger is rusted through. dan n looking further, I would now change all the disks dun coverings, then the doors opened and see the usual rusting place, but that was not so much rust. Water pump and timing belts are new. is nen c20ne in it and ran 178tkm, switching what would you do, buy a car and get ready or leave your body to be???? gruß

Take a look at this! Laugh at me quietly or not. Two days ago I finally bought a senator (was easy to recognize due to my many postings). After a closer look at the vehicle and the documents I had doubts about their authenticity and a call to the TÜV confirmed my guess. After I faxed the report I was told that the report is completely fake! You really don’t believe it! *headshake* I immediately went to the dealer And obviously they were surprised and took the car back immediately and I got my money back. But no matter who that was, it’s not a maximum of arrogance!? I write this in here so that all those who don’t bring their treasures over the TÜv themselves can check their documents for authenticity. Who knows, with what kind of sky tax some of us are on the way without knowing it. Oh, my first doubt came up when I heard from the supposedly geshu I’m sorry, but you can’t imagine how bad I am!!! Write your experiences here but also write some comforting words. Up here on the coast, it’s almost impossible to find a Senator B…… 🙁 Greeting Marko P.S. Search Senator B, 177 HP, well maintained and it’s also welcome to Län You have to keep your (galgae) humor, otherwise nothing can be done anymore!!!

The hurdle is done. They are also called TÜV. Before the TÜV I changed the timing belt and adjusted the hand brake. In addition, I cleaned the cooler from inside and outside. (That came down and out of a souper) But the tuvver was a full dumpling. He had to bend and break something. First he got on my rims, because I put the aluminiums of the Omega A on it for the winter tires. (Was also installed on the Senni). He meant I needed an ABE. When he was then called TÜV. but found out that they fit, he was suddenly of the opinion that the 195 tyres should not be driven on the 7×15 rim. But that was also a mistake. (Good that I was there) Then he had found that my rear axle rubbers were knocked out. But fortunately I could convince him also here of the opposite with a Montierlebel. Well, finally he wrote down the hardy disks. They have light (and they are really light) cracks. Well we If he can sleep quietly now, I give him this satisfaction. It’s only a small lack. The main thing is, I have TÜV, but I still don’t make the hardy discs! SO!! They are only made when they are really knocked out.