Category: Opel Omega & Senator Forum

It was not here for a long time, it has changed a lot. Unfortunately I have at the moment so much to the ears that I hardly come here to read or even post. On the topic: The long-awaited operation seems to finally succeed today. My old Schindmäher got a new heart. (well, not new. But 100tkm younger). It was probably running smoothly according to the workshop, the engine runs nicely round, starts already almost before the key turning and also has a little more power. So almost al read well, at least what I can say after the first 15km with it. However, the BC shows with warm engine in the stand now 1.3l/h, earlier was the 0.9l/h. I can think of a temperature sensor for the MSTG that might not work properly. I can get that out thanks to OPcom. Or is there something else I should think about? Tomorrow the new engine has to suffer again, then the autotrailer has to get up again… Omi with Omi on trailer looks good, someone wants a photo se hen?

Hello, today had a lot of short distance to drive through the rain and the displeasure of the Omi obviously just like me. 🙁 After the first short distance the engine was not quite warm yet and I put it off about 5 min. After that it only jumped on 5 cylinders and ran accordingly bad. Under load came as feared the exhaust lamp and the emergency program became active. I then carefully accelerated and let switch late, since from about 3000 rpm the engine suddenly ran better. After a p Aar minutes drive with a warm engine he went then again really well and two restarts later also the exhaust lamp was off. MKL with ignition however remains on and turning off the FCs results 0300 and 0304 => misignition cylinder 4. With my cadet I knew that the engine reacts with zünspitzen to wetness and then you had to drive the engine dry before it went again, but that the omi after almost 10 years with it already starts is annoying 🙂 nz banal question: – Which is the cylinder 4 on the V6? (driver side or passenger) And I would like to know if it can really happen through the humidity and what would you do to avoid such a thing for the future? Greeting, cyc200

Hya, so now we are happy with the replacement engine on the trailer back home. That was a shit ride. The cooler has made problems again, started to siff after 70km without end. Ergo: 40KM driving, 30min break, 1.5l water refilling, 40Km driving … … … I have the new cooler now also in the trunk, tomorrow it comes in. OK, but the main thing: I have found here nothing to replace the complete motor. Since someone has a guide in individual steps Thanks Mathias

Hello people, after I have my AT-gear in control now to some extent, suddenly quite different questions appear: Temperature problem: in summer times fast over 100°. I found a lot about it about the SuFu and then settled with it. BUT: Yesterday I made an oil change, with filters, theFi and LuFi. I drive every day about 35 km to work, of which about 30 only BAB, and that is like: Cozy open track, 5 km max. 120, then max. 140, everything with cruise control. Ke Kühmitteltemp at about 85° according to the display. Briefly through the village, kept at the baker, again in the car, Temp is then on Min, so pointer lies horizontally…. Before the oil change up to 85-90° and then stayed so until I stood at the job in the parking lot Have also had CO-test done, because I refill water from the beginning (end of June d.J.) at the beginning, at the beginning more, now perhaps 0.5 liters on 1000 km. Result: Nothing can be faked. Then the type has the lid of the balance tank against a pressure gauge g “Ohoh, 2.5 bar, the ZKD’s gone” Can it be that way? If it doesn’t press water out of the balance tank, should I not have more loss, is it steaming, is the motor owner wet??? Does it all fit together somehow? – low temp and ZKD damage? It airs well, quite calmly, pulls well, so actually everything in the green area… Greetings from the South Palatinate, Andreas

So I wanted to say goodbye to my Omi is dead. Was always nice here and quick and competent answers that have brought you quickly to the goal. So keep going and that your Omis still live forever. p.s. If someone wants mine here the dates. Year 1998 3,0 liter sport 145tsd kilometers but unfortunately not driving oil cooler defective and the head seal probably ? Irmscher Sport Auspuff Irmscher Cooler Grill Leather sports seats Winter tires with 5milimeter profile Xenon Bose Sound system Those who are interested ([email protected]) will also hire him the days E…y.

Since today the lighting for the temperature setting on the passenger side has failed. You can still read the set degree number with good light incidence, but also not more. You can also change it. Have already tried the search, but unfortunately found nothing right. Can someone help me and tell me what to do now. Should I drive to the Opel dealer? Or is it only a small thing that you can fix yourself? Do you have the problem that my car from Sonnt ag is elsewhere again and I can’t fix it. So I would have to manage everything tomorrow? Would be very grateful about your support!!! If it was only due to a light source, I would be pleased about a very detailed guide. I find it ugly if it is not illuminated. Thank you!!!!!!

Hello Opel friends, I had a similar request already in the Ford corner.Just this time about an Omega-B. I need a cheap car for the work and I have now come across an Omega-B. It is a 1995 Omega with a 2.5 V6 engine. It has an automatic transmission, the CD equipment and 230,000km down. Visually it looks quite good, apart from a bit rusty on the wheel runs back and dirt.No scratcher,dellen or anything else. My questions are. 1. 2.What do I have to pay attention to or adjust to defective ones that like to occur? 3.What does the driver take on fuel (approximately) and what does the part of the taxes cost? 4.What can I offer to the dealer? 5.What does the CD equipment include? The car is available at an Opel dealer and has just been bought, so I can’t say anything exactly because of the price and because of HU/AU.The dealer only meant that the car was bought by an Opel dealer. I hope you can help me with my search or ask my questions. Thank you very much to all the helpers greetings. I’m very happy to be able to give you some thoughts about what I want to spend for such a “excellent piece”, it’s easy to come together. He’s well-kept, was a regular customer at the dealer, everything should be done (I’m a bit skeptical by the last dealer who said that).

Hello Community 🙂 I’ve been playing my Omi 2.5 V6 for a long time in the track rod heads…now I’ve informed myself a little bit and found out that besides the left and right there is also a middle track rod. Should one exchange all at once or then the outer ones???? Or at the beautiful large auction house, you know which I mean *g*, are also complete rep. sets with track rods (li., re. and center), couplers and cross handlebars for around the 100.- on offer. Does anyone have any experience with these sets ???? Just think, if I change everything at the VA what can get some time game, then I’m on the safe side again. Greetings….Markus

yes I know … the good search function etc … 😉 but in this I did not find a threat for my problem … here my problem : I was torn on the highway of the belt (renewed 3 months ago ) and the engine went out … then I rolled off the highway and came to a parking place. the next day new belt brought up and raised. so far nice and good but then the good didn’t jump any more … after blinking out the error code came the following messages 0130 – voltage of the circuit of the lambda sonde as well as 0340 – voltage of the hall sensor NWS (by siemens) changed – still nix. additionally the error message : 0335 false signal for the motor speed to attract / push has brought nix … causer turns (slowly) … spark of ignition is present and ignition candle was wet/wet below when I took it out. relays of the injection and the gasoline pump replaced. (are identical) also nothing ! ECU ?? have Irge andwhat of “reprogramming” read if you had such problems ?? markings on the wheels of the camshaft also agree. the question is: where does the marking of the crankshaft have to stand then or what does the marking look like ?? are the 2 recesses outside on the wheel of the crankshaft ?? if yes where do they have to stand ?? have heard so on “1 clock” ?? besides I noticed when I turned the crankshaft by hand that it has hooked after a twist and I didn’t use it Is it possible that this is the reason why the belt is already torn 2 times ? can all this be related or is it possibly just a stupid coincidence ?? especially … what can I still do ?? KWS on suspected change ?? would like to avoid since I have it straight “not so thick” … I hope you can help me because I am really forgiven ! gruss marco ps : j a the car has sprit (I was actually asked in another forum)

Hello, After the police ringed at my door today, and explained to me that my rear light was spread over the street I was a little pissed off. But that it looked so bad then I did not expect (see photo). Nartürlich the driver has run away. So I remain on the damage. Tires HL defective, rear light def., bumper, and much more. I think bulging is pointless because the part is totally spoiled. Therefore my question how elaborate is it the side part behind And maybe someone’s got a side part to the favorable course lying around. I’m grateful for every helpful tip.