Category: Opel Omega & Senator Forum

good evening firstma, I only registered a few minutes ago and hope that I am right here I am kfz-mechatronicer azubi (1st year) at opel in rüsselsheim and was recently transferred to the oldtimer workshop. there is a pre-production model of the omega v8 (ls1) which is used as a commercial vehicle and how it had to come I fell in love with this wolf in sheep’s clothing. now I have set my goal, despite tax, insurance and gasoline costs a largely similar The engine should be a 5,7 l ?ls1? with approx. ~350 ps which of course gets a registration in Germany at the transmission I would like to have a manual that can also tame the original force of the v8 for the brakes, cardan shaft etc I am open to everything, the goal is of course a driving omega v8 with deu registration I do not know so much at the omega and wanted to ask which one for so a conversion would be suitable with regard to possible different engine size etc… I have seen a video at youtube by someone installed a v8 bmw motor in an omega and pointed out problems with the reading. if you know any other problems (possibly) please post! hope you can help me with this special project and already thank you in advance

Hello together, I have a very annoying problem since today: the thick one just goes out without warning. First it happened almost exclusively mountain downhill. Then everything seems to have reached a certain tepperature. After I had missed some time with looking, I came to the safety circuit of the fuel pump, i.e. the relay right of the engine on the battery. This became extremely hot. Both relays changed against each other and again the pump got hot. the relay was changed, because I had another one lying around. This was then no longer hot and the thick one ran again. A round turned – bubs – out again. Relay is warm again, but not abnormally. Now unfortunately I lack suitable schematics, otherwise I would have been looking for further. Also a bridging does nothing. Same problem. Am I also the wooden path???Evt. camshaft sensor? What could it be? Backups are all Ok, sometimes he jumps again without problems. another time he needs about 5min until he wants again. Great would be also if someone had a suitable schematic ready. The engine has the full power, does not run unround ect. so everything as always, only that he just runs out without warning, as if you were turning the key. Happens even at full throttle. Curiously, nothing is stored in the error memory. I have already read out. I found a post with the search, but not the matching, the NWS should have its own n have code? Can it be that it is not listed if it is sporadic? Engine: X30XE but not Omega B Year of construction 98 Engine: 3.0-24v, X30XE, 175Kw Best regards

Hello together, yesterday my wife came home with our Omega B and said that the cave would only jerk and not pull any more. Motor control light doesn’t burn, but motor has an even, speed-independent bubbling (no water bubbles) I then put away the air filter box and there the bubbling really becomes a rat. But as I said, absolutely even, no matter how much gas I give. He shot then also once, takes bad gas and starts running The idle is relatively even with short dropouts. What does my grandmother have now again? Motor is the 2.0 16V from 1995 Greeting Markus

Hello, I have a little problem. Since today, my MKL lights up. Did I just read out the STG with my China part and the following error came: P0340 – camshaft sensor signal faulty (08) – Not available. Does this mean that the sensor is defkt and I simply have to change it? Can the engine take damage if I still drive further? The engine seems to be in an emergency program. Besides, my ABS lamp has been shining for a long time. OP-COM then gave me also follow nd errors from: 00019 – valve relay circuit available. What can this be and what do I have to change for it? Fortunately, I still have an omega standing here for slaughter. Thanks already

Moin I didn’t find a Tüvforum here so I just ask here for: An Omega A 26er with a very good body was bought, another Omega 3000 24v with good technology but bad body, what do you do? I would like the 26er to be used as a donor of a replacement / rough body and thus the 3000er to be preserved as such. In short, the 26 should be completely converted to 3000er and the FIN simply changed and the 3000er papers maintained. Ch to buy new raw collars as spare parts, actually the AKT of relabelling would have to be feasible after all? That saved the conversion because of other engine, other brakes etc.. What does that cost? Who does this, Tüvi or workshop master? ps: How to wrap numbers I know, but I want to have everything legal and an E (replacement car) in front of new FIN wouldn’t bother me Thank you, good evening to you! Gruss Willy

Good day, on Christmas I actually drove one into my parked car and ran away. Picture attached. I bought a new headlight at the junkyard(25 euros with turn signal). I first patched the bumper with a tank band and put it back in place. I noticed when the headlight was installed that the lamp was covered with this one, with my old one that is not the case. Does that make 2 different things? I can also use the new headlight r not set quite as high as the old one…in comparison to the house wall is missing about 1cm. Is that tragic or in tolerance? Greeting Nordger

Hello, I have a little problem again with meim AT transmission! now and again the following steps on I try to start the engine and the organ in front of it then it starts and in the cockpit the lamp starts from the control unit and in the BC it then shows automatic transmission. After several times on and off the error is gone and I can start normal again and it switches normal. It also comes before that it hangs between 3 & 4 gear and is in empty run and then with high Dre I now have 173tkm on the clock and according to the checkbook no gear oil change was made and before I drive to the workshop I wanted to ask you what it can be. Thanks in advance for your help. MFG Sascha

Hello Opelaner, since the beginning of Aug. happy owner of a 2.6 Omega B Facelift BJ 2002 with LPG gas. (my first OPEL) 😉 Unfortunately I already have my first problem. I wanted to change the entry lamp to the rear right recently, it was not defective, but in the near future I want to use blue inside lighting. So far so good, when I used this bulb again I accidentally pushed it too far in and there was a short! and in the near of the amature board e I thought….but no those are OK so those are responsible for the interior lighting especially because the radio hangs on it and that goes!!!! mhhhh we have the fuse and also the entrance light measured by….Sicherung OK Entry light is no current…on all interior light there is no current.And now ….my driver’s seat heating is no longer possible..additional driver yes……and the rear power connector/cigarette lamp I don’t like these garages….had too much negative experience with it…but maybe you can help me! Don’t you think there’s another safety except the under the steering wheel and those in the engine compartment? THX in advance 🙂

Hello dear community, since I have very little idea, and do not know if I should ask, I am dependent on you. Hope you have been so kind and help me with the purchase decision. Would be very grateful to you Brothers. I have to take credit for the following car.# Opel Omega 2.2 —-2000 Edition Ez=2000 engine capacity 2198 cm3 106kw-144 Ps Euro3 160.000 km hu 10/13 The dealer wants to have 2200 euros. From the outside he shirks except for some small scratches, to be quite well cared for. 1) n purchase price for realistic, or is the too high? 2) Have never had an Omega, can I mention some flaws? 3)As I said, from the dealer….Do I see the right thing that he is obliged to give me 12 months used car warranty on gearbox and engine? 4) What do you estimate, costs the car annual taxes and how high is the insurance? (Been since last year June out of the probation period-doesn’t know how much I actually am :/) 5)At 160.000 km could w Else parts begin to weaken? I am very grateful to you for answers, tips, tricks and help

Hello, and again a question in the round. Apart from the fact that my new engine works well, I still had to ask myself a question again and again at the low temperatures. How high should the engine temperature be at temperatures around 0°C? My thermostat is OK and the temperature shows me even after a longer motorway ride always around 87°C. However, I think this should be about 90-92°C in order. Anyway, the heating nic manages to Does the interior really have to be heated…whether that’s because of it? Should one perhaps, like in good old times, just make a piece of cardboard in front of the cooler at these low temperatures? As said otherwise, everything works excellently….very rare but even more welcome condition I would be very grateful for an answer….Mfg Rudi