Category: Opel Omega & Senator Forum

Hello forum! Unfortunately last night I was forced to park the fighter bus on the road, as the garage yard was completely parked. It came as it had to come, a very unbeautiful bump now adorns the tailgate. Of course no name was added. The hit was probably almost point-shaped slightly above the license plate. It is about 2 cm deep, so in itself annoying, but not really tragic. However, the tailgate does not open any more, seems to be warped / tense. My plan is to weld up a nut, put on a threaded rod and pull out the bump over a fixed counterpart. I hope it’s a frog and I don’t need a new flap. Anyway, the flap has to open because I have to hit the shock absorbers. Does anyone have a better idea? Pictures will come tomorrow…

Moin moin together As a convinced omega class thickship driver, I see myself increasingly exposed to hostility from the Friday schooltail fraction. Actually, the thick oak cares little when a dog pees down against it, but I really deal with the climate problem, especially since meteorology next to the love of old sheet metal is my second passion. Unfortunately, against this background, I have to say that there is a compelling need for action, energy and raw materials I realized this years ago, when Greta was still in the nursery. Well, how can I do that? E mobility is a moggle pack, as long as the lion’s share of electrical energy is generated from coal worldwide. That’s anything but CO2 neutral. Moreover, the energy and raw material required to produce a new E car is much higher than, for example, getting an old Omega. A good third of the energy needed to produce a new E car is much higher than, for example, getting an old Omega. It makes sense, therefore, to increase the useful life in order to save energy. A lower consumption of 30%, whether electric or otherwise, can never and never save a new omega class car if the omega goes into the second or even the third round. That’s exactly what I do. My omegaes are all three significantly older than the average life expectancy – and they will be used every year. In the meantime I can go to the Tüv at any time without any special preparation. Also with my elder, who will soon be 23 years and has now 293k on the clock. How do you see this topic?

Hello, good evening.I have a problem with my wife’s car.An opel Omega 2.2 facelift with 144 hp. built in 2000. She called me the other day and said that the car had gone out of the drive and didn’t start any more.Aside from that, there was a car with a fork key in it in the amature board and on the display from the onboard computer was standing : automatic transmission.I then got the ignition strip out and I had to fix that the candleboxes were completely under water. ,the candles out , everything clean and dry made and built together again.Cars ran again perfectly but : The symbol with the fork key still lights up .I already agreed the battery but it lights up .Battery was already several hours and nevertheless the symbol lights up .AUTOMAICKETRIEBE was no longer in the on-board computer .So as said everything works again perfectly but the symbol .Next week I have to go to the tuev and the symbol burns . T the MKL that burns.How do I get the symbol out ? is there an en trick ? Thanks lg Maik

Hi guys, have an extremely strange and tricky problem. I changed the timing belt with my Opel Omega b 2.5 V6. Everything worked perfectly and drove about 2000km and then turned off the car for a week. Wanted to move the car again and when I started it there were two ignitions and the car went out again (thought the key just wouldn’t have turned long enough as it could happen with old cars times that they went out again) at the two The engine turned completely without compression. Diagnosis was clear… gills skipped. (probably lay on hand, tension roller defective or a mistake on my side when changing) Belts looked at and as suspected he had skipped two teeth at the crankshaft ( camshaft markings were perfect but crankshaft was wrong) The strange thing is that the belt had a tension like from the picture book and all tension rollers are top. No teeth torn off Belts look t like new and as if nothing ever happened. Has anyone ever experienced something like this and has an idea what it might be about… my only guess is that something has blocked the camshaft drive and will check it out in the coming days. If anyone else has any ideas like to report. Greetings Tobi.

Greetings. I have a problem with the valve shaft seals of an x30xe in the Omega B Facelift. To the chronology of the gray hair. I bought an Omega B Caravan automatic with almost 153TKM and head seal damage year end 2000. At home then these changed, with the valves all newly sanded, new shaft seals, new hydros, new belts, new water pump, all handled without complaints and screwed together. (with the help of TIS) After timing belt adjust motor to …….. Runs….. Engine gets warm short gas bursts on 2500U/min….. Blue smoke from side seat. (well to recognize because rear silencer does not eat yet) I then searched around here what could explain otherwise for possible problems. Blow By System I immediately participated in the course of the head seals. So cleaned and an impact plate rented into the KGE. At the engine run I have to look for clear hoses mounted from the KGE to the intake tract. There comes no oil, so i So the oil comes from the head area. I then picked up the tip in a contribution from the Omega God “Kurt” for quality seals. I then on the right bench in the built-in state exchanged the Viktor Renz shaft seals for Elring. I noticed three loose shaft seals. Then everything again together and adjusted. Engine on…… Runs….. warm short gas…….blue smoke….the dirt.. So the same, oil loss eats so much that it me between cat tube Well, engine once warm, securing pulled off the fuel pump and compression test made on the right bench. Cylinder 1,3,5 all in the range 13 bar. Next day in cold engine pressure loss test. No findings. Very small loss. Wherever. Cylinder bushings look good, pistons are chic, I had made head first and head seals also. I took the head down again and disassembled. And again three shaft seals loose. Mal e How can this be that it loosens the valve shaft seals. Yes, I pressed it firmly with my hand the first time, the second time with a hard rubber hammer, slightly knocked on with a splattering tool for shaft seals. Would be very grateful for thinkers.

In the passenger footroom (km-low Omega with 114tkm) under the carpet is constantly moisture. The windshield has already been re-glued and sealed. The two water drains on the left and right are continuous, i.e. the water runs through perfectly. I have to refill coolant regularly lately, although I move the vehicle almost on Sundays. The climate has changed. There is no noticeable loss of performance of the air conditioning system. I noticed a small puddle last time in Hungary, when I had a sham change. But did I do this as from another vehicle. Probably not. It indicates, as others wrote, in the direction of leaking heat exchanger. How do you proceed in such a case? To FOH for troubleshooting? Or to look for yourself? What can I check myself without the need for And what about the “radical” method of another user I have read of, who has simply replaced the plastic layer at the bottom left of the middle part of the dashboard, where he cut the foam to get through to the heat exchanger? Is that possible?

Hello, I have measured a higher rest current and noticed that after the fuse for checkcontrol fuse 7 less rest current and also the battery lasts longer. After charging the battery I noticed that the red diode in the center console DWA lights up or flickers while driving or running out. Activate the DWA (at 2x door lock) with plugged fuse 7 does not look at the diode. Furthermore, my parking aid does not work and in front of some Ze it has also put my navigator in glove compartment, vlt co-excused? Question, is the higher resting current due to malfunction of the DWA or parking aid? How can I deactivate the DWA or find out where else the error lies?

Hello together, For some time now the MKL has lighted up ( error NWS P0340 ). We then installed an NWS from the accessories with new cable set, did nothing. Omega B 2.0 16V – X20XEV – 10/1996 Then an original GM sensor was installed. Now the MKL only lights sporadically. When the lamp is not on it runs quite normal, with light it pulls badly. I was told that a software update can possibly provide remedy. The first version is apparently too sensitive I refer to the MKL . Who can tell me which software version I have (read out with OP Com ). Keyword 2027 protocol Keyword #1: 6B Keyword #2: 8FNormal timing parameter set.VIN: W0L000026V1106211vehicleManufacturerECUHardwareNumber 90491975 NUsystemSupplierECUHardwareNumber: 2516E systemSupplierECUSoftwareNumber: 21d21e24e systemSupplierECUSoftwareVersionNumber: 0420 exhaustRegulationOrTypeApprovalNumber: S96001 systemNameOrEngineType: X20XEV RepairShopCodeOrTesterSerialNumber: Not pro ProgrammedProgrammingDate: FFFFFFFFIdentifier: 0206 CalibrationDate: 565S9020 CalibrationEquipmentSoftwareNumber: 25900300

Hello, In my Omega BJ 1998 I don’t have a warning number for light / parking light. Unfortunately I forget to put the turn signal back, then sometimes the parking light stays over the whole weekend on and Mondays the battery is empty. Can I retrofit a Summer Relais 90 240 665 or other and on which slot comes the relay? In Voaraus thank you very much! Greeting Remy

Hello! With my Omega MV6 I would like to renew the valve cover seals and in the course of the same exchange the usual lids for aluminium valve lids from the Vectra B 2.5. My question to you is whether it is absolutely recommended to renew the crankshaft housing seal in this action and why – and, if so, where can I get the mere seal at all? Dietmar