Category: Opel Omega & Senator Forum

Hello dear Opelaner, I was offered an Omega 2,6liter V 6. I would like to hear from you what you think about it. Know me too little with Opel. (Drive a Bmw 325ci 2003 model at the moment. But since a house purchase is due the Bmw is to be sold, and switch to a cheaper car. (refer to purchase price) Have already read that the Krummer is to be made worse, as well as pay attention to the embarrassing intervals of the timing belt. Front axle etc. are also topics, but other manufactures auc I can use screws myself, so a lot of things should have to be fixed myself. So now to the car where I need your advice for price etc.. Opel Omega 2.6 V6 Sport Limo.Switch , Black Bj 01/2001 2 Hand 115000km ran Tüv/Au new inspection grad made And came in January without defects through the Tüv. Ausst: abnehmmb, trailer coupling, parking aid, El. window lifter, El. light metal rims, navigation system, check book maintained, sliding roof, servo steering, cruiser, xenon headlight, Central Locking , Bose Sound System Automatic Air Conditioning Inspection I’m sure I forgot a lot about it. It should cost 4600euro. What do you say ?? good offer?? Best greetings

Hello dear forum, unfortunately I had to give up my Omega last November for financial reasons. Now it’s the case that I want to buy another Omega B again. I know in any case that it should be an Eco-Tec machine on the 2.0 l. engine. Now I want to ask you what you think of the 2.0 liter or 2.5/3.0 machine? in terms of consumption, insurance and taxes? And what about the fictitious repair costs? I had the 2.0 liter version with CD A Unfortunately, I also had the bad luck to invest in timing belts, radiators and air mass knives in the months before the tax. But the driving feeling is simply comfortable. Don’t know yet if I should look for a car or limousine? I tend to the limousine. And maybe also to the automatic transmission. What do you think of the automatic version?? Thank me for your information. Look forward to my new Omega, wherever it comes from 🙂 LG Uwe

Dear Leidensgenossen, the front axle of my Ommi B 2,0 16V EZ 03/97 is already poltert again. I only installed new pendulum supports on the front stabi 3/4 year ago (Febi, 2 pieces for 40 Öre bei ebay). Now the stupid thing is poltert already again. That can’t be the Stabi joints again, can it? The storage of the triangular handlebars was replaced 2 years ago by the friendly, as well as the track rod heads. Does anyone have a hot tip?

Hya, there’s another question about my blue caravan. Since it’s so cold, the starter always needs 20, 30 runs until it turns. When the end key is turned, a loud ‘crack’ always comes, but he doesn’t care and doesn’t turn. At some point – and when the engine is warm, it always works again and again until the next morning. The thing is supposed to be built out. If someone has a tip like I can still save it until it’s not quite that cold anymore, so that I can take death without me over the pit? Thx Mathias

Hello first of all. I have been driving the Omega 2.5 DTI year 2002, 127000 km for about 1 year. For some time it always comes before that it does not start. Then I have to switch off the ignition, keys out and after two minutes it starts as if nothing had been. For a few weeks he is in a state of total rest and when I go it is gone and as soon as I stand there again. In the error memory the following errors were: Problems with pre-glowing too low rail pressure at engine start pre-shipment pressure too low So off to the FOH… Diesel filter swapped, incandescent pins swapped, broken diesel line swapped –> Mistake away car starts up and in the stand still restless. Five days later the self shit and it doesn’t start. And again to the dealer and Him asked what it could be. The answer was I don’t know, let the car as we look. But I can’t tell you how long it takes and what it costs… What a statement. So I’m going to do the thing myself now. Take it in my hand. I wanted to start with the relay and then see if the error occurs again with the jump-in. After that test backflow quantity to find out if an injector is possibly there ( due to restlessness in the stand). What do you think it might still be. VFP broken or maybe the 20 l problem? Please urgently for help. Thank you in advance Slutrossi

Dear colleagues, I need your help again. During the summer time (high outside temperatures >30°C) my Omega B FL Bj. 02 Y25DT often flew out the fuse 15, but I can’t see any systematics. (see thread http://www.motor-talk.de/…/…cause-localize-t3278777.html?…) This error has not occurred to this day. However, the air conditioning system has now gone away. Neither cooling power nor dehumidification are switched on. I have the suspicion that the supply lines to the climate compressor have been scrubbed (similar to the thread http://www.motor-talk.de/…/…imaanlage-fliegt-raus-t738241.html?…; my Omega has already run over 200,000 km) Has one of you already had the same experience? Where are the electrical supply lines to the climate compressor? Can you easily track the cables or do many motor components have to be dismantled? Hon once in advance for any assistance! Greeting Matthias P.S: The book “Now I help myself” for the Facelift variant of the Omega is so bad that not even the climate compressor is listed there, let alone the assembly or dismantling is described

Hello, I once again saw a report on fuel saving (was on n-tv). There it was almost about converting your own vehicle to a hybrid (somewhat adventurous by installing an e-engine). But of the same “inventor” there has been the “ESPA – belt disc” for a long time. In doing so, the drive disc of Lima is replaced by a disc with a larger diameter. This should (proven in some tests) bring a fuel saving. Sounds actually logical. I will of course not take the beetle as a test object and try whether the reduced amount of cooling air is still sufficient Has someone tried this already (successfully)? Gruss Stephan

Hello people !!!We need your help. Our ;DICKE BERTA; has suddenly in the warm condition start problems, you have to organize very long until it comes especially after longer drive and the engine then shuts down .Achja opel omega 2,5dti bauj.2003 automatic ,allegedly 110,000 down , , , .When we want to continue driving for example after refueling, the engine does not jump until one more meal .We have to orgle and pump dan she comes back and jumps whining and fogs the rest with a thick Since I like Svenja the thickness I care very big!!I know it is harder from a distance what to say but someone can help us. So still what.We have the bridge where the Agr? on it is worn off and yes the flaps are very oily and also the canes? are also covered with oil mud Russ in the hose to the AGR was some oil. What I also notice is that the car always (automatic) son bissel strained listens to whom one gies gas but drive I mean (since I do not know) If you have any idea or live nearby by Blankenheim (Eifel) we will be happy to join you. As I said, the thickness of Berta should only have 110,000 km down and got a new turboladen shortly before buying it. I thank you already meal and the short distance is 0170- 9393 466 lol

Hello colleagues, I’ve been looking for a good chassis for my 99 Omega B MV6 for some time now. I currently have series dampers with KAW springs 50/35mm! The look is ok, but the ride feeling is too spongy at higher speeds and in curves in my eyes. Premium manufacturers such as Koni, H&R, KW etc. offer only complete suspensions with max. 30mm lowering. In addition, only threaded suspensions, which I do not want to buy. I just want a nice sportlic h coordinated chassis. I found one from the company GTS! They probably work together with Kayaba and KAW. Can you recommend this GTS to me, or is it enough if I buy some good rebound dampers and combine them with the KAW springs or what do you recommend to me? I’m desperate. Thanks in advance. Meno

Hello Opel friends after you have helped me with tips already I have another question, recently bought an Omega 2.5 liter Bj 11.95 lost water but the cooling system did not have to replenish all 20-25 km of water. I changed the cylinder head gasket meanwhile but can not find anything striking in the seal, between the two cylinder banks under the injection unit lies a larger plate which is connected by two pipes with water gt and screw with approx. 12-14 with the block is screwed everything seems to have to come here somewhere the water loss can tell me someone how the plate is sealed so far can find no gasket Mfg Uwe