Category: Opel Omega & Senator Forum

Hello, have a good workshop that only performs the work I get the parts myself. But please don’t laugh at me *smooth* Only I’m a little confused because I came across different ones in the search for track rod heads. There are left outside and left inside. Are there on each side 2? According to the estimate of another workshop the track rod head must be renewed left outside. Isn’t it advisable to change both sides immediately? Then the crossbar bearings must be Vora chse left in the back and crossbar bearings front axle right in the back. Hää? Many I have a part number for the things? Why is there at ibahh 2 track rod heads for 16,- and on the cost advance is one with 56,- calculated? Thanks already on credit 🙂 Greetings, René

Hello, here are the driving signals: Omega B Kombi 2.0 16V Edition 100 Motor : X20XEV First registration : 13.09.1999 KM Stand : 191 000KM Automatic air conditioning 5Gang hand switch Slowly but surely now the coupling has to be made to this omega. Since I have never done this before,and also have no stage…Would I like to ask if someone from near duisburg is here who is helping me(that’s what I do) will also help with all of them. Still I have not bought a coupling… think about it but that I’m looking for a car. n set(pressure plate, clutch disc, and rear bearing),of sachs or luk for ca. 150-170euro will buy. Would be really great if someone would find themselves here…. m.f.g.

Hello dear people, I wanted to ask if someone can not tell me which diagnostic plug fits for my Ommi and also works. I bought a part in the bay for cheap money and unfortunately did not work at all. Maybe someone already has experience with it and can even give me a link or something. So my Ommi is nn 2.2 Dti Bj. 2001 and I would like to read out with the cable, delete and so. PS the original “OP COM” I found already n, but this is clearly not my price range. There has to be a better (cheaper) alternative, right??

Hello, I have a problem here, this would be that with my Opel Omega A, 2.0 l, petroler the oil is pressed out of the filling lid again and again. Valve cover seal has already been changed the 3rd time. He has a new cat already. 3 different lids have already been tried out and that was the turn, a newly bought and a used original lid. From all the oil was squeezed out. What can this be? FG Oliver Leo

Meal, I thought I’d get a couple of boys’ rides before the real, but when I wait to turn left, it happened. I still look into the rear-view mirror and think to myself: ui the moped is fast. Right at that moment it’s already banging. God is thanks to no one, only metal damage or plaque at the moped. I’m curious what the FOH says what it costs, hope that only the Stossi and ni then it’s just taillight and stossi swapping and removing the scratches.

Moin,so after my Omi has already got various new parts, the fun continues.Somewhere a brain in CH had not really put on a spark plug,so that this flew out on the track, this is especially nice when you just got out of the plane and just want to go home. OK the yellow angel fixed everything so far as provisional, the winch was not damaged but the ignition cable was pulled in sympathy.On Friday it was as far as the candle was ko I’ve never seen such a finished spark plug, the elktred in the middle is completely gone. So new spark plug pure is already a bit annoying but it went relatively well, then new candle pure and shei….. Don’t care.The ignition cable works this I checked, the candle is wet from BENZIN when I turn this out it can be that I got a wrong one from the part you have?? On the package stands NGK 7956 BKR5EK. Thanks for your help. I need my omi tomorrow and has to get it somehow fast Complete set is ordered.

Hello! Please for help! (This is my first post in this forum, hope I do everything right) Apparently my Omega has an unsolvable problem, and now I’m looking for help here. (I’ve already tried the search function, but would rather open my own topic, vlt. has someone else tips???) So. With my Omega MV6 automatic (Bj. 95) the crankshaft sensor was changed last year. (necessarily I think, because I read here in motor talk, that the error at that time a Loose cable was, and that was it) Anyway: Now the third crankshaft sensor is already in it, then the Ommi runs quite normal for a few weeks and then it starts again: At a certain speed (this time there are 3000) it stutters, and the MKL goes on. It doesn’t go (yet) out. But that gets creepy worse. The sensor was changed in an Opel workshop, i.e. also an Opel part, no accessories. Error code: 19 Should we change the camshaft sensor now? Od I hope that the sensor was properly connected by the cables in the workshop. I’m just surprised that it always runs perfectly for a few weeks after the change… Oh, one more thing: I drove over such a wave (a traffic obstacle) and then the car went out completely, that day he also went out a few times. Could it then be a loose cable somewhere? Where do you start the search? Sorry for the long text, and I hope e, there is still one of you experts patience for another “crankwave thread”! lg Heike

Moin Men’s I don’t want to open up two huge topics for two small questions… 1. It has to be changed the right wing joint (has good game, as we had to notice today when changing tires) — is there a manufacturer that the inclined board community would recommend to me or do I take what my supplier has just there? 2. Due to my oil problems (crank shaft simmaring, oil pump sealing, what ever) and the fact that the engine is due to a thick fat oil sludge I have been forced to take a detailed engine wash. And then the naked panic in my face – engine washing is inseparable in my brain with “what this now?” and “shit car, finally start, you bitch!”. Is there something I would have to pay attention to in the Omega about this? Neuralgic points that you would have to consider in advance. ieber with bag and adhesive tape makes waterproof? Places that you prefer to approach with the Kärcher in your hand with “Royal Highness”? Or just full Lotte and see what happens? I ask the inclined board community not in lachanfallen whether to break out of the possibly trivial questions In particular the question about the engine wash I mean to death! Thank you

Hello together I have a problem… A few days ago I was on a long drive (200km) at the last 50km the board computer shocked me with the message “Check oil level”. I went straight to the next tank and thought I was spinning – oil measuring rod was dry! I bought directly 5 liters and before I tipped it in again measured – full! Measuring tab fully covered… Today the message was there again and the oil measuring rod remains dry this time (warm engine) also who But the warning light in the speedometer doesn’t work. Now I don’t know if I should refill oil or not… what do you think? The message only comes when the engine is warm! Edit: Oh yes, when I bought the car 2 weeks ago the oil was also completely full… and I don’t have any oil stains under the car…can that be the one who used up so much?

Hello dear Schraubergemeinde! I hope you can help me with my problem? I drive an Omega B Ez.7/94 V8, where the immobilizer spins from time to time. Since it is almost certain that it is the control unit for ZV / immobilizer, I would like to replace it, but do not know exactly which parts I need. All keys have been tried and reprogrammed, unfortunately without success. It is a system without transponder in the key that controls via infrared. Since I don’t want to deactivate the immobiliser or cut cables, I have the following question: Is it enough to install this control unit at the Schrotti and then synchronize it with my old key, or do I need the infrared – operation from the donor vehicle? Does the new control unit have to be registered somehow e.g. to the engine control unit or similar? And what else could be considered? Is the motor control unit and Zv / immobilizer together in a device installed? When reading some pickles this sounded like this. Thanks in advance enginebine