Category: Opel Omega & Senator Forum

Engine problems I have an Opel Omega 2.0 16V X20XEV engine built in 1998 with LPG system. It all started with the gas system failing. 2 weeks later it worked again. Unfortunately, the Omega now had start problems in warm condition. These expressed themselves as follows: Morning 1st start, no problems. Engine went well and quiet, a few minutes later, 2. Start you had to turn the engine until it started. This process could sometimes take up to 2 minutes, with d he could also completely die of the engine, but then also started to turn again until he sprang up. Among other things, the injection valves, the coolant temperature sensor (which, after reading out the fault memory, showed that injector valves were defective, coolant temperature sensor defective) were changed (but after reading out the error, the coolant temperature sensor (which, after reading out this operation, now indicated that the valve was not available), coolant temperature sensor not available, still wave sensor wrong voltage, crankshaft sensor wrong tension After changing the camshaft sensor, the car jumped immediately again after 5 minutes of running time, but the engine control lamp remained on and it still ran in the emergency program. On a test drive the engine went off and did not make any more installations to jump. I checked the petrol pressure, from the valve on the injection valve strip it pushes out gasoline, so I assume that it gets enough fuel. Can these further Problems possibly related to the curvature sensor? Now the gas system is also defective. Same error as described at the beginning. Does anyone live near Bramsche (Osnabrück) who knows about this engine / problem? For any help I would be very grateful!!!

n screen in the car, that’s something everyone has already thought about. only where do you want to place in the omega? there are n couple of possibilities, but it doesn’t look really integrated. in the omega is already a color display installed (CID, at least from BJ 2000 with navi). best it would be to be able to watch over this display television or dvds. and that’s exactly what I can do now!!! thanks to hardwarekiller!!! here the left to the pictures and a small video (video is about 3.7 MB): http://home.arcor.de/v.ekoutsidis/tv_im_omega/1.jpghttp://home.arcor.de/v.ekoutsidis/tv_omega/2.jpghttp://home.arcor.de/v.ekoutsidis/tv_im_omega/3.jpghttp://home.arcor.de/v.ekoutsidis/tv_omega/6.jpghttp://home.arcor.de/v.ekoutsidis/tv_omega/7.jpghttp://home.arcor.de/v.ekoutsidis/tv_omega/6.jpghttp://home.arcor.de/v.ekoutsidis/tv_omega/7.jpg mega/10.avi on picture 2 & 3 you can see a switch that switches the audio signal between cd-changer and dvb-t receiver. the image quality is really excellent!! you can hardly believe it (don’t get so good on the photos). as antenne I use the mobile antenna on the roof. the reception keeps depending on the transmitter and location up to 60km/h, sometimes even up to 80km/h. how all this works you can best read here. the circuit board, which must be installed in the display has the “h hardwarekiller”. oh yes BC and navi of course continue to work without problems. as soon as you turn off the receiver the image of BC or navi can be seen again. if you have questions to remodel or something, I can try to help. we installed that ourselves. was quite simple.

Hello, After I went with Kurt scon on troubleshooting is now the absolute worm in it. So I start. Original error: MKL went from time to time and out again… FC turned off: 61 (tank ventilation valve voltage too low) For a long time what now looks exactly where the problem lies. blue plug pulled off from tank ventilation valve and looked what comes now. Again turned out: FC 61. (tank ventilation valve voltage too low) So still. K urt meant: Possible cable defective So I set myself up again today and saw if there was any voltage on the line at all. Voltage was on it: 12,44 Volt battery however had 12,84 Volt gallub i… definitely more than in the plug arrived. LM also works: 14.5 Volt in the stand gas. So I removed the whole ventilation valve and looked if it works if you give direct current on it… It worked when you go directly to the battery… opens and closes. I thought about the line. And I found out that if you give the plug directly mass, then the Ventiel also works properly. I also had the one sclauch off to see if it attracts air… Yes he did. So I opened the cable channel above and soldered a cable to the apparently defective mass cable of the tank ventilation valve, which goes directly to mass. Quite a great idea… because now the MKL is constantly glowing. Ohso and before I soldered all of it, h I looked out again ( what I think I did 25 times today) and he suddenly showed me the FC: 71,73,21 and 31 but 31 I heard, is normal. What’s going on ?? yesterday it was only FC 61 and now almost the whole package…. Would an explanation: that I sprayed the engine with a garden hose before working, so that it cools down faster or that I can pull off the plug from the tank ventilation valve. Because the engine was running just before. Hope i I’ll give up soon.

At my DTI there is the latest effect : from approx. 100 km/h to approx. 120 km/h it is now also buzzing with my omi from the HA, but only as soon as I walk from the gas, i.e. in sliding operation, while in train operation it decreases, or is not audible anymore. Of course I used the SuFu and stayed stuck with the following statements : wheel bearings, differential, sliding part and support bearing cardan shaft… Tires were also there wheel bearings I exclude, since these still relatively fresh si nd, AND because the wheel bearings typical sympthome do not occur tires I also exclude, since changing the tires (on the new WR) does not bring any effect EDIT : elephant feet etc. I can actually also exclude because new, as well as hardy disks etc. To my misfortune now I do not know very well with the rear drive (screwed before the omis only front milling), therefore sliding piece and support bearing cardan shaft and differential can be considered… WHO can Now give me just technical advice here, and explain how I can check the above components ? What makes me the least worried about screwing up and inspecting the diff, except that I don’t know which, and how much oil has to be refilled (because I haven’t searched yet ) Other tips ? Thx in advance !

Hello, I got my parents’ car about 2 weeks ago… Unfortunately I noticed that the consumption is extremely high. According to the computer my lowest consumption was 9.5 liters. Or else always over the 14 liters…I always drive on country roads. What could this be? My driving style is very quiet switch up early as possible to save some fuel but somehow without success =( (without climate) mileage is 196xxx. Could anyone give me any tips? If I were to ask at ATU now, they could turn on me as shit because I don’t really have much idea… Oil consumption is as always. Which would be the best? Would I look forward to an answer =)

Hello everyone. I almost don’t dare to ask questions, but does the Omega B Caravan Bj. 2002 (with Farbennavi NCDC 2013) have a check control? I ask because the wiping water is all and nothing is displayed. Now the oil was also completely all (after a month and 1000 km from full to empty) and it didn’t show anything. Shouldn’t at least be using the oil lamp? I only heard that at the engine noise. In the manual it says that after starting all the systems are checked But now I can’t see from the manual whether CC is on board. In my opinion all the Omegas B Facelift would have to have it, right? With my old Omega Bj ’95 everything was displayed, if what was in trouble. I bought the car 1 1/2 months ago and this is now noticeable to me by the above mentioned reasons. Can you see this in the engine compartment anyhow, if CC is there or not (black box or s owas)? Greetings and thanks Hontra. P.S. the oil loss also makes me worry, at least it is being converted to gas. But below it everything is dry. How much liters of oil on 1000 kilometers is the cut? Maybe I should mention that 234,000 km are already down.

Hello dear ones! The topic has been in the room a little longer, but now it is getting serious. I will sell my Omega. He has to give way to a more family-friendly Zafira. The Zafira has already started his service as a new family coach. It has always been a lot of fun with you and I hope to be able to look in with you from time to time. I would also very reluctantly give up the nice meetings in Oppenheim. Thank you very much for the patience with me and for the many helpful tips! I wish you all all all the best and have fun with your cars, even or even if it isn’t that easy. Macken finally has every car………… Many greetings Robert Oh yes, I would be very happy if my omi would come into good hands. Forum members get a super special price! Here’s the link!

Hello friends, there’s a little but annoying problem. Whenever I make a quick switch, the front of the engine room is so tinkering. It’s hard to describe the noise. Sounds a bit like a screw loose and comes up against another metal part. Sometimes I hear the noise even when I’m driving over floor waves, but only when there’s NO gear in it. As soon as a gear is in it, the noise is gone. But as I said, the loudest and the worst It’s when I turn it on when I start a little faster and then make quick gear changes. Has a hint, because gears disassemble, no thanks. Maybe it’s just something quite harmless, because otherwise there are no problems when switching, not even difficult or something like that. Is a 96 Omega B Caravan 2.0 85kw

Hi Junx… after I gave my AR 35 times in professional hands to have a maintenance, I would like to put the experience into words. Due to my Internet research I got to a specialist for automatic transmissions in Düsseldorf, with which I then kindly arranged an appointment at 9:00 o’clock. Order: control oil change, filter change and brake band, if necessary. Since I got a different order at short notice on this day, send So I made my screwdriver with Omi at the agreed time in Düsseldorf. Who was not present was the master, who then appeared around 10:45 clock and went to work at 11:00 clock. My screwdriver (self auto mechanic) was also allowed to look over the Master’s shoulder. My screwdriver returned around 15:00 clock,(my hold had an appointment at 14:00 clock, which you had to cancel) met me with serious face and began to tell. Oil pan removed and many chips at the magn The oil smelled burned, was carbon black and actually no longer a lubricant. Therefore the maintenance at Km-Stand 210,000 was already urgently necessary. Conclusion: Lamella coupling at the wear limit, or already above. Then it can be found: The master probably forgot to get oil filter and seal. Without cleaning the sealing surfaces thoroughly, he lubricates a sealing paste on the old seal and pats the lids under the GG. On the question of what the oil filter and the brake band were like, he only said: “Change oil filter is not necessary and the brake band is not necessary to look up.” Before, however, the boys of the workshop desperately looked for the oil filter and the brake band. Schrauber stood next to it and was just amazed. Ergo: The specialist for automatic transmission has not the trace of an idea of the AR 35!! Not to say that I called him afterwards and took a strong break. but soon realized that I was not as ignorant as his other customers…(Kurt be thank you!) At least he explained to me technically correctly that my AR 35 is at the end. So dear Omidriver…. If you want to keep your AR waiting…. This is an address where you better make a bow around it. Address???…There is only one in Heerdt. Greeting Jürgen

As Thombeat told me on the occasion of my last birthday (“let you give cavity seal, otherwise you have to drive to the punishment Omega B”) this case has now occurred. Was today at the TÜV, ok already the inspection was passed, without defects! AU and gas system test had already done the “new” already three weeks ago. Had always only Saturdays time for repair, elephant feet rear axle, steering levers, brake discs and coverings front, lever path handbrem rectified, gas connection moved behind the tank flap, standing light renewed at the front, NSL AHK connected, windscreen wiper replaced at the front, seat belt replaced at the rear right with belt lock, AHK ball head renewed, engine wash due to oil residues. In addition, new candles, new oil with filter (10W40), new air filter, new pollen filter, good used interior equipment at the front and at the back. In addition, new German papers, report according to Parag.21. It is a silver Y22XE as scarf ter, with Xenon, AHK, Tempomat, CD Radio, Rootwood and Gasanlage Prins VSI. He has 331.00 km on the clock and the purchase price was 1,250 Euro. Now I am looking forward to the air-conditioned 500 km tour to Rotterdam. And especially for Thombeat, also this Omega B has rust, but I accept the “punishment” ! All the work done was done by myself, sometimes quickly knocked on the proudly swelled chest. Thanks to Kurt for his telephone advice.