Category: Opel Omega & Senator Forum

Hello guys, have a problem with the temperature indicator. ( 96er 2.5 TD ) When he has reached his operating temperature it always stands between 82-90° Then just out of the nothing it goes to stop and the BC shows coolant level. And as it has come, the indicator returns to normal. Have checked the balance tank and it is full up. Does any idea? Greeting Big E

Hello everybody, JO, I already again and again my Omi has a problem that I have to solve . My Omi has a heat problem, not a serious one, but it annoys me immensely and maybe someone of you knows advice, I hope it. I am at the end with my Latin anyway. Because of the heat problem I have renewed the following in the last 14days – ZKD’s, Wapu, Thermostat and two days ago also a new water cooler. In between the water system was flushed and the climate condenser of Since the new cooler is in it, it has become a little better but not optimal as I would like it to be. The symptoms are the following: Outside temp. at 18° in the evening, thermostat opens according to the display at approx. 94°, water temp. falls down quite quickly to 91°, then rises again to approx. 94° and falls a second time off to approx. 92°. After that the temp. swings for about 4-5 km to 93-94°, then it can the temp. I don’t think it’s normal at least not on 13Km ride at about 50-60Km/h with only one or two short ampelstops. Even on the highway at 100km/h it keeps the temp. just at about 95°, I rise to 120km/h the temp. over 95°. I know each time the fan stops and climbs slowly but unstoppably over the 95° until the fan switches on at approx. 96° and then the temp. rises at approx. 98° and the water cools down again to 95°. In any case, I saw a very hard brown mud (say I have now) that I removed logically. That was at the right ZK. At the left ZK the hollow screw was clean. I guess that the previous owner used cooler density to cover a water loss before the sale. Could it be that on the right ZK a little bit of water was removed. I guess that the previous owner once used cooler density to cover a water loss before the sale. n water channel is closed or semi-slummed?? and therefore the temp. does not remain in the normal range?? What kind of hardcore cooler cleaner must be used to dissolve any such custations?? Hope I can help myself.

Hello dear specialists…… I need your advice. I am about to exchange my Omega for another at a low “up price”, but I still have my thoughts. I have the possibility for “thin” to get a 3.0 V6 caravan. When I had the test drive the last time became quite different to me. And not only from the driving feeling……….LEIDER After just under 30km and stop in the parking lot steamed (stiff after burnt oil ) it from the hood left and right side of the bend When I drove back, I came to the gas and the battery control light went on. Unfortunately, but not again. I assume that the ZKD is gone (which I would not hope) mileage of the car 134,000 km Unfortunately, the whole thing in the front room is only engine *hihi*, can you tell me if this car also has a valve cover seal, which can be leaky? Otherwise this car is with a heater from W ebasto equipped. There is nothing to say about the chassis, also the brakes are completely OK and there is also no rust to see. Climate control top, seat hzg top, sliding roof top and the interior also completely OK. Somehow the car also makes the impression that it was tuned, on the automatic lever on the console is an emblem with TSW on it. And the question of the questions…… green, yellow or red badge???? Thank you already in advance greeting test driver

Hello guys, I made the head seals with motor X30XE at my Sintra V6 year 97 and had the heads planned immediately. I cleaned everything cleanly as meticulously as possible and installed it again. Nockkenwellen incl. Hydros set again on the cylinders as they were. Despite that the camshafts (Nockswellen not yet turned to control time OT) are free, so I can’t open the motor with a valve. I then have the camshafts loose again I turn and block something and if I turn counterclockwise, which you can’t at all, then I come only half a turn. I think that the piston hits on the head.But the heads can’t be planned down when the valves are in there. I think!?!? But when planning, not much was taken off and the valves were also in there when planning. Isn’t there? The head is already lying up and the head seals the have been installed by Elring. Can anyone help me? THANK YOU THANK YOU!!! Greetings fideist

Again a small new problem. After starting the MKL is lit up for 1-2 seconds. Then disappeared again and no longer appears. About OBD we read out the following:P0130 Missing ??? (8) Lambda probe signal not correct As far as clear, something with the Lambda probe seems faulty. The hint “P0130 Missing ????” is not clear to us. We have therefore deleted the error and it is not stored again. Anyway not so far. Likewise, flow through the ventilation system. g since a few days, always after starting, a swing gasoline and exhaust fumes. Reinforced at the first daily cold start. In the driving operation then “pure” air is to be determined. What should we look for now? We have the garage available including tomorrow and could go on troubleshooting.

So many posts on the topic “cracking” make a completely confused!!!! Omega A, 2,oL Automatik, Kombi, Bj. 93, oil change at the HA-Diff. 8 months ago (same, sucked out and new filled up to lower edge), without any problems!! Since then I even drove about 15,000km! Suddenly I had felt a “cracking” on/in the underfloor after 8h at approx. 2°C parking, after driving off on the AB after approx. 10km. The cracking was so loud that I thought with open side window that I could get my Mitb Do not hurt and have hit accordingly with little load at traffic lights and crossings!!! Facts: – Under load came immediately after starting the crack!! – According to the feeling: at every turn of the differential, or drive shaft, a crack!! – R- as well as D (back as forward, no matter which stage) – definitely not motor, because not speed dependent!! (in stand speed increase, no problem!!!) – under load backwards (with slight pressure on the brake) after movement of the chassis also Kn acken. But only when the chassis moves! – Fully put on the brake and then step and full throttle: no problem!!! (only when the chassis moves it is there). – And then at rhytmic intervals (speed-dependent, not speed-dependent)!! So one thing is clear: No motor problem, and also no transmission technical! But: chassis! Ergo: Kardan, or Diff, or drive shafts! Who has had similar, or even the same already??? Would be great, of course, if a thatel I could save myself the “underlay” and change either the differential or the assumed drive shaft without having too much unnecessary work. Thx for Future: Willie

Hello . I am now with my Omi-Latain at the end and hope someone can give me another tip as I finally get it warm. Have the Omega now for two years and it becomes, neither in summer nor in winter really warm. In summer it just gets beyond blue mark. In winter it is always on cold. Have already changed the thermostat and also the heat exchanger, because I thought that is possible. No improvement. Even if I almost complete the cooler with cardboard Zumache arrives in the interior max. lukewarm air. What can I still check/exchange that it finally gets warm ? I am grateful for every tip Gruss Kai

Now it’s done… I changed my glow candles and prepared myself well, however, despite the hot running of the engine and despite creeping oil and permanent pure and turning out of the glow candle on a cylinder I ripped off the candle. It is the candle on the 1st cylinder in the area of the spray wall, to which one got also the worst. Probably the mechanics were last time too lazy to change these !? I assume that the other 3 candles already used I didn’t get the torn candle out far. Guess so 2-3 threaded passages. In any case, the other 3 candles were totally down. Nevertheless, everything seems to be tight… The question is, what should I do here now? Leave everything like this, or turn the candle out with a special tool? Does anyone have experience with the removal of torn candles?

Hello all, I drive an Omega B MV6. With this car the rear shock absorbers are designed with automaic height adjustment. My shock absorbers are defective and have to be replaced – the FOH demands the smallness of 230 € per piece. In the accessory trade I did not find a suitable comparison model. Therefore my questions: – Can I replace the Nivolift dampers without problems against standart dampers or do I also have to adjust the heeling? – Are the original dampers ir gendwo in the accessories trade WITH Nivolift? Thank you! Konstantin

Moin, I need a few reference values, because I find the verb of my X20SE quite interesting: 30 KM Bundesstraße + 4 KM Stadt = ~ 10 L / 100km Short distance to 3 KM = ~ 11 – 12 L / 100 km Does this really come with the engine? Under 10 the colleague is not to be moved and I swim on the Bundesstraße with a maximum of 100 in the flowing traffic. Our passat with its 1.8 107 hp machine needs on average 2.5 – 3 liters less, however, weighs also a little less. Both values without Kli Ma. Greetings, Thorsten