Category: Opel Omega & Senator Forum

Hello together, have a small problem with my thickness, where I do not climb behind WHY. My fat guy has spent the whole time in the third between 12,1+12,4L/100km, after the penultimate tanking the consumption at once increased by approx. 1.4L/100km to 13,8L and I honestly don’t know why that is now. Maybe one of you has an idea where I should look for it. I have to say that neither the MKL glowing nor the engine shows a noticeable lower power. Is actually as always, the engine runs absolutely clean in the LL and has power like an animal. Only now it sucks like a hole. The blowby system was cleaned in the summer, AGR shut down, the multiram system was repaired and cleaned. Also some seals/simmerrings were replaced, as well as the head seals. In addition, the Lambdasonden were changed, recently again against Boschsonden, no change with the Lambdasonden by RUF and Bosch always the same consumption of 13.8L/100.

Hello Omega friends, have a problem with my Omega B 3.0 Caravan automatic, 150,000 km. Oil loss, exactly where engine and transmission meet. In Annex 3 photos of oil loss. We have photographed the car only from below, without ramp. Only on the two screws, as seen on picture 1, runs oil down. Otherwise everything is very dry, as far as we can see, also around the screws. However, a lot of oil, in about 20 hours the amount of oil, as seen on picture2. Car drives and switches perfectly. Am myself only very limited expert, so please my question to you: What can this be? Will it be enough to tighten or seal the screws? Many greetings O. Attachment: Image1 Close-up Screws, Image2 Oil loss, Image3 Wide-up Screws

After sensor change, timing belt change and wheel bearing and climate compressor exchange as well as new tyres in the rear now the(!): Coolant loss after a short ride. Even after approx. 15 km driving distance the coolant tank is empty! Display in the on-board computer: Coolant level! Then I have already filled up about 2.5 l water already 3 times after each ride Scrap or replace engine installed? I think to repair the head seal (workshop) is not worthwhile at the running performance. But is a replacement motor with 116000 km running power from 1998 for 600 € worth? Oh so: For the exchange I need workshop help – I don’t trust it – ‘(again 700 €) and the next technical test is in September – I am confident , but you never know before what the “ING” finds everything. Thanks for all the hints.

Hello dear community, I have recently the following problem at my Omega B: [Opel Omega B Caravan; year 2001; Motor Y22DTH 120 PS; KM 246,000] – In the display of the BC the following message is displayed again and again: “Attention light range driving light” Then I checked the sensors on the front & rear axle. Conclusion: the sensor at the rear probably could not work anymore, because the “connection rod” was completely germinated. So everything is cleaned up and now everything goes quite easily. The error message comes however still. However, the actuators in the headlights work. If, for example, I load the car at the front, the headlights change. The same thing happens even if I do the back. But the problem now is that the motors simply adjust themselves in the complete standstill. So sometimes up, sometimes down, always back and forth and completely arbitrary. In my opinion, wrong signals arrive at the engines from somewhere. So I guess the message comes to the BC. Now the question, what can it be?

Hello Omega friends, I received the Job’s message a few days ago. I finally managed to install crossbars etc.. I then arranged an appointment in a free workshop to mount the tire and axle measurement. On the occasion I gave the order for the TÜV-transparency. The result was really crushing. At the front so far everything okay, but rear axle……: Axle bearing knocked out, wheel bearing rear left defective, brake lines strongly rusted. Sounds not so dramatish for one or the other, however, for me already. 1. I don’t have a garage, 2. not the necessary clue and tool, 3. and that’s actually the main reason for me, the omi only cost 700.- and that’s just the question, in which relation is the rep. to the purchase price?????? or what do you mean? Until the days Maex

hello, I have a question for you. it’s about my omega. I wanted to go shopping yesterday, only my omega didn’t jump on. unfortunately I had to call the ADAC. was bridged, and swollen there he ran. when I told the ADAC that the battery was new, the yellow angel had the damage of crawl current. something he measured then, and found that there was a whole lot of current flutes, even though the car was off. then he had pulled all the fuses, and found the culprit. it’s safety nr 7, which is only responsible for the interior lighting. over night I pulled the said screening times, and look there, he jumped on without problems. now my question. all the lights go off when locking the car. have checked everything today, like a suitcase room, glove compartment lighting. everything ok. where should be available then, if all lights are out?

Hello… I really wanted to tell you how long I had something about my new timing belt. It was exactly one day. Yesterday was the whole day on the road and the engine ran smoothly. Then I wanted to start again in the evening and at the start he suddenly shrugged around so funny, as if he stopped short at the start or stalls or something. But he then jumped, but he suddenly listened to himself like an old tractor. Significant mechanical noise, running rough, MKL then went on and you have the feeling as if he smelled like sprite or something. Can it be that the timing belt somehow jumped over or something? Of course I have guaranteed on it but as a little skeptic I am afraid that they will tell me now something else that can not have broken everything just to push that not on the timing belt. So the problem is really right during the startvogangs happens and not when he ran away. Now I am rattless, with my nerves at the end, and before all that is wrong with the new motor. So I don’t have to say anything about it.

Hello, so on a new one, I have the following problem. The belt was skipped and the engine went out a little later. So now I have all the parts new here and installed but the belt can not be properly laid on, the following. If I put the KW on ot (mark on the KW on 6 UHr), then the inlet camshaft can not be set on ot because what blocks, I turn the KW a piece before or back then goes but then the ot is no longer right? How can I get that now, I don’t understand the ot position of the kw wheel once the nut and once the two circles. What’s what about it? The kw disc can only be properly built up so that they can’t get wrong because the screws don’t fit then. Would someone explain to me exactly how I get the pistons or valves so close that they don’t stand in the way and block and how I put the OT on the KW place with which one.

Hello, to Omega I personally appreciate the wheelbase and above all the place (in the 3’er BMW & Co. I get fear of space) – and of course the price. The driving performance is secondary, the 2.0 16V is enough for me personally. Now I want to drive my Omega even further, but also look around for alternatives (the new Vectra and Omega Facelift do not like me). By chance I have seen the current (Facelift) C5, the pre-model I found from the interior not outstanding. This is striking that the car from the place is similar to the Omega, and from the price you get the car new for almost EUR 19,000. The discount battle hits Citroen particularly hard, at these prices, a comparison in the car exchanges creates clarity quickly, dominate the new cars far above the used car, which in the last consequence means the used car as a Citroen can only be transmitted extremely over the price, but the usual flip side of the medal (as in the case of Omega it can only mean driving, driving, driving).

Moin together, I counted last time, how often my automatic slide switches and came on five times. Until then I thought I had a 4-speed automatic. Is it possible that it is a 5-speed automatic or switches the transmission somehow still an intermediate gear ?? Also I noticed that with cold engine the transmission takes a very long time to switch (at about 4 thousand revolutions). Once it has switched, it works again normal. Besides, it turns things off before all on gradients somewhat uncultivated. Does an ATF change something ?? what do you have for experiences ? Auto: ́94er 2.0 16V Omi B Limo, Motor X20XEV, 101000 km down, gears I don’t know, but have the “S”pass button on the selector, which is also really fun. Greeting Piglitt