Category: Opel Omega & Senator Forum

Hello guys, I have a problem with my Omega but first of all the vehicle characteristics: Omega B Caravan Executive 3.0 V6 (x30xe) vehicle has full equipment and automatic… Built ’00 all off! The problem is that on the one hand at low temperatures (< 5°C) the heating does not bring any really hot air and on the other hand that the engine temperature is not kept right... at above mentioned temperature it can be that the engine temperature drops completely when driving on the highway. At temperatures around 20° C the engine runs hot. In towns always 95 to almost 100°C and the small fan passenger side runs with max. power the others stand up to the fan for the MSTG. In rare cases the two small fans run parallel at the smallest level (camously audible) and then the large fan runs from time to time at the smallest level. Afterrun apparently also does not work or only if it wants, at least the fans go off as soon as I switch off the ignition no matter if the one e small running on max. power or not. On the auxiliary water pump under the balancing tank, which according to FOH only for the heating support is never electricity, no matter which heating power is required. Likewise, on the auxiliary water pump which sits high on the cooler no current depends. Thermostat should work the cooler becomes completely warm, all hoses become warm the engine will neither become particularly fast nor slow warm, everything as it should be I would say. My FOH Is somehow overburdened and don't know how to switch the fans, how to check the steps or how anything else engine cooling works on this engine as well as on the heating... there's always only a "axle shrug" I hope one of you can help me... I'm getting crazy here

Hello! What could this be: Care would be done only it opens up a little when the engine gets warm. Further it comes to me when it gets warmer outside: When starting engine control lights up….then again start then everything runs quite normal. Yesterday he totally started on emergency program… almost no gas.. Then I had to start a few times until the control light was out again.. So in the cold state it runs quite normal. Does this again hang with care again? Hing also but you don’t see anything…Maybe who knows what…Thank you in advance… Opel Omega 2.2 16v Bj.2000

My Omega A 2.6 from 92′ has installed a cold running controller from Euro 1 to Euro 2. It was already installed at the purchase and is, to my knowledge, an electronic one from HJS. The problem is, if I start the engine it runs higher because of the KLR, about 1600 revolutions. If I then drive it warm a few kilometers the idle speed is constant at 1000 revolutions. Only when I switch off the engine, and a second time was m start the engine has its normal 600-700 revolutions in the stand. The second phenomenon is that the KLR regulates even when the engine is warm, i.e. I drive and suddenly the engine gets gas shocks, without which I give more gas. Just at the gas station everything was good and all of a sudden it gives itself gas in the stand people have already looked at me. My question is what is broken and if you can just pull off the plug of the KLR on the controller to see if this is the cause of the error. l it’s an electronic one that’s stuck between the vacuum hoses or not? Maybe one of them had a similar phenomenon. So it’s not possible if the engine decides to give itself gas at once.

Moin on all sides.. First of all a hello to all those who don’t know me yet. My name is Albert, am 24 and I come from near Braunschweig. For about two years now I drive Omegas and have fallen in love with the car since then. Unfortunately I don’t know about cars at all and have (still) two left hands That’s why a little wank – could maybe ask a bad question now and again I have been using the forum here for some time to acquire knowledge and/or getting help – which works great, because the community works mostly well together Now I turn to you with a question that I unfortunately did not find (or perhaps also overlooked) under the SuFu. And I have the problem with my new Omega that the gears (especially with the cold engine) go in quite hard. Just if I want to insert the first or the reverse after the start, I get it only with the second or third attempt If I have already driven a few kilometers, it’s a bit easier; the gears can’t be switched “butter soft”, but rather hook up quite nicely. Now the question: what could this be and how do I fix the problem? Maybe with a gear oil change? Or does that have nothing to do with it?

Moin-Moin u. Watte-Watte for our Berliner Hello friends a successful new year 20+20 for ALL. It is a Senator B Bauj. 87 . For some time already the engine speed fluctuates at cold start and always ran round as soon as it got warm. I recently renewed because of gasoline loss, new hoses at the distribution and also the injection nozzles. But now, I realize that the engine speed at minute intervals at idle suddenly after a quiet whistle slightly sc I can’t find this whistle. Could someone please tell me where this little whistle could come from and what it is at and where it is at. Had already searched for small animals in the engine compartment without results I did not have an OBD for an éventual error message. Greeting from France.

Hello, I have an Omega B Bj ca 98 and wanted to finish this now against Tuv, when I put it off about 1 year ago he jumped on without any problems, but now he zigs around the end I can turn the lamps (defense) all go on, but then, when I continue turning, to start, starter doesn’t even turn anything (starter came in 1 year ago) battery is completely new. Can it be that the drive lock has disabled itself?

Hi guys. Since I thought I’d get a group-A facility for our Omega, the search started. When I was looking, I came across Bastuck, Jetex-Fortex, Ta-Technix, Fox, FMS and Simons. OK. But it’s just that the 3.2 was only listed at Bastuck and Ta-Technix, as well as Friedrich. Since the TA-Technix was the cheapest, if you can talk about cheap 730 euros, I ordered it. It turns out that it’s a Simon’s facility that sells TA-Technix stickers. I knew that Simons only got the ECE certificate for the X-models. Maybe TA-Technix himself had an ECE certificate created? At least that’s close to it. But it’s not a good idea. You get the same report from Simons with X25XE/X30XE. So it’s full of bullshit. Now the system goes back, what now? The only ones where the 3.2-series are explicitly listed are the Bastuck and the FM systems. In the Bastuck, this Y-tube bothers me (which is also the case with Fox). At Friedrich I know the fluctuations in quality. I have to change the system slowly, because the ESD of Supersport is now slowly disintegrating from the inside and now and then. I have also been looking for a wolf, if there is an expert report for the Simons, but nothing, nada. Are there alternatives? VG

Hi, my car has been losing cooling water for quite some time. Today I have finally discovered the weak spot. It is directly leaking where the cooling water hoses are connected to the interior. Looks like a kind of “plug??”. At least the upper one is externally wet. Is this just plugged in at the place? Will it be leaking? I wonder now if I need the piece of hose new or if there is simply a seal between that can be renewed. I’ve taken some pictures once, if I’ve expressed myself incomprehensible. Can someone help me?

Hi, I know, this question has already been asked tens of times in various forums and answered variously. Unfortunately, I have lost the overview and hope that you can limit the error. I drive a 2000 Omi 2.2 (with EasyJet-Autogasanlage) – often goes -especially at the warm start – the engine control light. After I have then driven a few meters, I start the engine new and the error is then mostly gone. When I get the error code read out I always use 0340 and 0170 (mixture with grease and reverb sensor). The problem is that the frequency is increasing and I have to start the engine more and more often before the indicator light runs out. Now I have read that there was probably a change in the cable at the NWS and I have to solder something around it. Then I read again that it could be the KWS, but I can only reach it if I unscrew the compressor of the air conditioner. Other instructions say again that I have the tensioning roller as well as d I’m a little confused. Which sensor could trigger this symptom and what would be to do? The gas system itself has been running for 50000km without any problems, so I don’t really suspect it. It greets a faithful but helpless omega driver?

Hello, after a long time have bought me an Omega again (the fourth). Beautiful thing. 2.2 liters 144 hp as Caravan “Design Edition` year 2002. Unfortunately now the big cylinder head revision is on. Since the cracker makes the first two kilometers also noises I would like to change it with you immediately. I would like to ask you for your experience. Is there really two different crackers with and without AGR or is there only the secondary air connection which my but does not have? AGR I have What do you think of which manufacturer I should take the new Krummer? Twin Tec, LRT K 120 or with which you have had the best experiences? I thank you in advance. Greeting Uwe