Category: Opel Omega & Senator Forum

hi! I’ve already found at Omega B non-facelift that the lighting on the yellow (computer) display is too strong relative to the main armature board. I’m a bit surprised that this isn’t changed in the facelift because it’s quite easy to see when driving late. Does anyone know, you can easily find the connection line for lighting the display and maybe use a resistor to reduce the lighting a bit? Another idea is a “Rau” put a semi-suspecting thin plastic disc in front of the display. Ideas? Bye, Thobbe

tomorrow together… since my snoring rear axle slowly gets on my nerves I wanted to touch the bad guy so slowly. doesn’t always snort, just with some bumps or sometimes when driving. at the car I can shake as I want, because knärzt nothing. I wanted to start with these rubber plates where the heels are on it. they look pretty flaky at me and certainly don’t make much sense anymore. does someone know about you like these rubber plates? would like to order me new ones on the internet, just don’t know how to call them. have not found anything similar at part dealers. always find only this so-called elephant foot. I hope you know what I mean. thank you already.

Hi, as it looks, my oldie slowly gets old symptoms . So, I always close completely (so far ), i.e. Schlüssel is turned from vertical to horizontal. I always did so, and I was surprised that you can’t even line up the button from inside :8. Yesterday then my Holde wanted to drive away the little one, and gets the key at the driver’s door no longer turned. I tried then also, and after a long time back and forth then went also, but very tacky When I then tried to turn the lock again on a horizontal level, I had to overwhelm quite a resistance on half way. On went then again only after a long play, also very rough. I close now so that the lock is only slightly turned to the right (ZV closes all doors), and then is pulled vertically out of the lock, it goes perfectly. Had actually suspected the lock cylinder, but after I then tried the SUCH, b I have doubts about this. The way it looks to me is probably the anti-theft function, vertical closing position normal to (I didn’t know that the sooooooooooo was modern). Now my question to be sure: Since the key can be moved in the normal up/to, area perfectly, I can probably exclude the locking cylinder, but then iregndwas not right with the mechanics in the door, right? Maybe everything just a little squared (is e 19 years) and screams for lubrication? gruss, pierre

Hello, my question to you what you would do in my place. I have an Omega b V6 ́95 with 230000 on the clock. With timing belts etc. I now come to approx. 1200 € repair costs. For 1500 there is already nen ́97 2.0 Kombi. I do not know now, V6 can not be repaired and put away and look for something else, or?. (I know for 1500 € there are also nix dolles). Thanks and greetings.

Moin, to be honest, this box bugs me slowly. Purchased for 1900 euros and plugged in 2000 euros within 2 months, and only parts that should not actually be broken: engine, starter, windshield. After the old engine gave up its mind because of broken crankshaft at 220tkm and was replaced with allegedly 92tkm, the mill ran as well. This morning it was then -22 degrees. Once glow and start and the box was immediately there. Was very happy for the first time. Then 15 m up to the highway at approx. 2000 u/min, so that the engine had about 80 degrees. On the highway then the shock. A maximum of 2500/min, that means in the 5th approx. 110 km/h. There was nothing about it, immediately stutter, etc. I then turned up the engine in the stand, went also only up to almost 3000, stayed there and after twice stutter then on 4000. Now my question: is this due to the cold and thus the liquid of the diesel? If the broth becomes viscous I can well imagine that the fuel pump e in the tank no longer succeeds, and the requested injection quantity can no longer operate. Thanks already Rexi Kleiner postage: Diesel filter before 2000 km new (for 12 Euro by man). Last refuelling the day before yesterday (full). At -10 degrees no problems.

Hello dear omega friends have some questions to you and would like to hear some advices, so the mv6 still has the old cassette radio with cd changer inside of phillips the first question can the cd changer only be connected to phillips? can someone tell me which cm sizes to have the front door loudspeakers and the rear doors, back the rear shelf gives space for the speaker to cut out which size is the back? what is this long speakerb end that goes along the rear window. what I want to remodel, I want front ne dvd installation of audiowoox should be good from the sound 350 euro, can I also connect this system to that MID is this compatible? who knows where I can have conveniently moved the red plus cable from the battery to the trunk, which costs approximately, since I have delivered my old amplifier with my e34 I would like to have new ones and would like to know which you recommend to me until 100 euro n kann, cap 1 farad, magnat subwoofer, mac audio 11cm speaker and mac audio 14cm speaker I have here. Greeting Alex

Hey peoples so my question is that since I have my omi still nciht so right since he stands at workshop oil loss has to be made and Tüv wanted to ask ihc already once on the attached picture you see my headlights are the standart dinger of hella, so they are actually quite white nru the viecher like I don’t want to install the chrome angel eyes here at ebay and I would like to know if my headlights have 2xh1 and 2xh7? I really don’t know, since this a ngel eyes 4xh1 would they fit me? without remodeling? then the next question xenon retrofitting is not allowed stvo, that we know but I have read if you have lwr and swr then you can drive them legally. this xenon retrofit pack here at ebay what do you mean by the angel eyes lenses and this xenon fits everything from the covers etc? or do you have to cut out something so that it fits everything? wanted to do it already then at my e34 but have sold the now will i ch do it with the omega, do you think it will be really better light with 8000k? thanks for the help greeting Alex

Hello people, I have the following concerns: My Omega B Kombi, year 97, 2.0 16V has a built-in AHK with a 13-pin socket. By measuring I found out that neither the continuous plus nor the so-called charging line (PIN 9 and 10) are occupied. Then I tracked the wire harness coming from the AHK socket and found that the wire harness appears in the mounting opening for rear left lighting. The wire harness has 13 wires. 10 of the wires are further bent. 3 of the wires end in a blind plug. At the AHK, however, I need the continuous increase for the 12V interior lighting of our caravan with the standing and connected tow vehicle as well as the charging line for the 12V operation of the Wwg refrigerator during the journey. Ideally, the charging line should be powerless similar to the radio as soon as the ignition key has been removed to unload the vehicle unintentionally. My questions: can you pick up the required power supply of the PINs 9 and 10 somewhere at the rear of the vehicle (perhaps even in the said mounting opening), or do you have to move separate lines from the front (battery, fuse box) to the rear? By the way, I am not a car electrician, so it would be nice to form answers as far as possible intelligibly. Thank you in advance.

moin moin … me annoyed it a little bit that I can not operate my 4 window lifters all on one impact … that’s why the idea came to me to install an additional switch … maybe someone has already done it and can help me … as a slipper stand available 1 original astra f efh switch individually from the passenger side or a universal efh switch from sonem ebay retrofit package … my question now …. to which cable must I close the switch, evt l of the 4 individual switches to close any cable collection ? can I connect the additional switch to the comfort function with ß has here someone a schematic of the original efh ? for your help and tips I am already very grateful in advance

Hello first of all I’m new here and I have a problem with my mv6, so the following I bought it and brought it over to me did not look after the cool water and there pretty much like nothing in it came to my home then I turned it up slowly and there came a lot of air out that is normal so on hot engine and the car was not driven for a long time? I would like to know from everyone what the vlt already had, and when I was driving I didn’t get on the temperature was respected and I mean it would be normal at 90° I think, so I have had no problems driving only I have such a Russian kfz young man who wants to pull off what from the charcoal always and I brought directly to him he saw that there was no water in it and says to me immediately the cylinder head seal is in the ars., when I was at the car dealer I noticed the data from the old owner and today before calling him what he said to it he said that the cylinder head gasket was replaced the car is magazine maintained my good well known also says that it is normal if oil level is above maximum and the car has almost nothing in it that there is air out of it vlt none of me say anything about it, and if it is the cylinder head gasket what costs the approximately? I pulled out the oil measuring rod there were no drops of water to see. feel of the kfz really messed on the oil measuring rod were also not small water drops so can there is also no water in it. the car loses oil can one tell me where that is with most? thank you greeting Alex