Have bought my Omega B X20XEV 1 year ago from first possession. Was everything done in the service booklet. Be the day before yesterday He had started to clack! In the works I was shown after 15min. the broken water pump, also had the timing belt on 2 teeth Aluabrieb. I got a replacement car, because I had to work. Today then a call my Omega no longer jumps on and I can drive the replacement car free of charge because the assembler first Monta G’s back on duty!
Category: Opel Omega & Senator Forum
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Change engine control unit what needs to be considered MV6 3.0
Hello have already a contribution to stand here now I have a question independent of this and that If the control unit should be defective with me and I would have the possibility to get the control unit from another accident vehicle what do I have to change everything that heal control unit in my omi funzt at ebay like here the yes also offered in the set the black plastic part (transponder) must also be changed? or is it just enough that I reprogram the keys leave
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Air conditioning operation also at the same time control unit for the Klima system?
At mine is the control unit the air conditioning defective said the FOH ?Because my car has been standing for about a week as soon as the car the two large fans in the engine compartment pop up.And the battery is empty!!!! Finally the FOH wants to have about 700 euro incl. installation !!!!!!!!!
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What engine control software do I have?
Moin! I drive the Y22xe, now I have read out the error memory with OBD.What makes me a bit stutzig now, above stands y22xe and further down motor type Z22XE, now I already have the software of the Z22XE on it or yet only of the Y22xe.Because I have heard the Z22xe should be better. Then I can save the gear to the foh or?? Greeting Andreas OP-COM 090420 PC-based diagnostic system Please enter your workshop data. Click on “Save Configuration” OP- COM – KW2000 Communication Window> 2000-Omega-B-Motor-EY 22 XE Keyword #1: EF Keyword #2: 8F Normal time parameter set. Supplier: L Chassis number: W0L0VBF3511070220 ECU Manufacture No.: 24426542 DG ECU Hardware No.: SIE 0116004300 ECU Software No.: 6586055132 ECU Software No.: 0500 ECU Approval No.: S01003 Engine Type: Z22XE Workshop No. or Tester Series No.: S001006191 Programming Date: 20020325 Identification:1606 Production Date: O108401C Software No.: l2c8400a ECU Installation Date: 6586055204 Vehicle Manufacturer Specification: 3200 No Errors
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Now my omi is completely gone. Failure Tacho Servotronic ABS/TC
Last night my omi went completely crazy. On the way home from work first the ABS and the TC control lights lit up together, shortly afterwards the speedometer was dead at once, again a lot later my servotronic went out and the steering went so hard as if I were driving 160km/h. So stopped and started again which unfortunately didn’t work and since I wanted home I drove again, because of the steering just take care after about 5-6 km swoops everything went again and the omi ran again as if nothing had been. Because of the ABS and TC I have already read because of dirty wheel sensors and so, but what happened with the Servotronic and the speedometer???? Are they also hanging on a wheel sensor?? Or what could have caused the failure – mass error??? Thank you for your help Gruss Stephan
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Opel Omega A Limousine BJ 1992 Luggage compartment Damper/holder Luggage compartment lid does not hold
I have this vehicle: Opel Omega A Year of construction 10.1992 GL-equipment For some time now my boot cover has stopped. The Opel experts know that there is a thin metal rod in the saloon as a so-called damper. I disposed of the part accordingly. Now I was on the scrap yard to look for a used one, but you get the part very heavy or not at all, because the part is damaged during the removal. or do you have to take the iron rod? I would put pictures in if someone needed them?
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what is that?????
again a happy hello in the screwdriver round…. have there this one question and hope as always,that you can help me….. about which vehicle it is about, do you see on the basis of the signature……so-actually everything works but nevertheless it wurds me,for this cable is on the pictures???? I don’t know – it doesn’t seem to be missing anywhere, it also does everything,how a diagnostic plug does not look like either……. as you can see, it goes through the syringe protection wall and from there it looks as if it goes further into the interior…. the other cable goes by the way to the coolant container-if it helps… even the FOH with which I wanted to make a update, didn’t it know????grrrrrr……..had then nat. also let the update be right away many thanks in advance
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Help…, cold start problems with 2.2 DTI
Hello omega community, have recently increased me again omega and thus I remained faithful to the Omega forum, however the first problems have already emerged. Vehicle data: 2.2L dti and soot particle filter year 11/2002 with 167.000km on the clock and much electric snaps Now to the problem: the car can be started in the morning or if it has been long only very difficult so after long and repeated organ. After the start immediately lights up the engine control light The MKL burns permanently during the 2-5 minutes. I noticed that as long as the MKL lights up, the instrument and interior lighting flickers and when the MKL is extinguished, a ticker is heard and the flickering is gone at once and the engine runs quieter. If the engine is warm, it jumps perfectly again. Have tried to flash out the error codes by turning off the ignition, then kicking through the foot brake and gas fully and d the ignition is switched on again. Unfortunately only a permanent light of the MKL came and there was nothing left, I conclude that no error message was stored. I don’t want to replace everything on suspicion and would like to limit the error or maybe you also had it with your Omis. PS: I noticed that during the blinking attempt a noise arises as if a small electric motor were running short and after a few seconds again run out Is that all you want? What can it be? Hope you can help me… Greetings Wis
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Don’t open the car anymore!
Hello, I can’t get my car open anymore. The battery was empty these days and then the door Mehanisch opened…without central lock. Then I charged the battery and everything was normal again. Then I left the car for 3 days again and the battery is probably empty again. Anyway, I can’t get a door open! It just clicks…as if there’s still some juice on it, but that’s all! Is there a trick to get the doors in? but only the one. Who can give me a tip?
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Temperature indicator for the motor in the speedometer
Hello dear community I have a problem with which I can not get any further and urgently need advice and help. I searched some forums but did not find anything to describe or fix my problem. I drive an Omega b 3.0 V6 Bj.2000 speedometer 130 000 km Problem description: The cooling water gets too hot (according to the display in the speedometer). My friend, who is a car mechanic, searched for and could not fix the error. That makes itself noticeable in that the cooling water imme R gets hotter according to Tacho. When the fan reaches about 95-97 degrees the fan goes on and cools down to almost 90°. When the engine warms up again it reaches over 100° until the fan starts up again and cools down. The next time warms up more and more degrees are reached until the cooling water in the red area is at some point. Tested: head seal, filler, termo switch, termostat everything is fine. As my friend(automechanic) a friend of the Opel master describes the problem e he got the following tip! Under the battery is a resistance (fireware size from Bosch, beige color approx.30€ at the friendly) which is also responsible for the temperature (I don’t know any more unfortunately).Please replace!! Said and see because I had trouble bringing my omi to 95° degrees after an hour let alone of the 110° degrees and more that were shown before. Everything ran perfect again!!!That’s 2 days later I had to accept a highway of 200km and After an hour I fell on it to get warm again. Again to the friend and the part changed under guarantee. After that again without any objection. That was three weeks ago. Did not heat my omi max. 3.5-4000 revolutions. Yesterday evening I had the need to step on the gas again and you already guess it!! temperature again too high. That can’t be that the resistance is defective again!!!!???????? Give gas right by the Opel and buy a new one!!! My guess is that something else will break the part. On the advice of a friend I should disconnect the battery for about 10 min. and maybe then go again where I don’t think it will solve my problem. Has someone had an idea or similar problem and can possibly help me?? I am grateful for every tip!!!!