Category: Opel Omega & Senator Forum

Hello dear people, I have a sad message to convey, my Omega is a total damage. I drove to work in the morning, the same distance as for 3 years, all of a sudden, such a madman comes up to me with a speed of hell on my track. I gave light horn and horn, but no reaction from the other driver… Could then only tear my steering wheel jerkwise to the left and drive left into a field. Unfortunately, I had a concreted bridge before first the damage did not seem so tragic, left front triangular handlebars and track bars, possibly front axle. Engine jumped easily and ran very nice and quiet. There was no oil or cooling liquid or anything else. In the evening after work the car was dragged home with a few friends from the fire department. Unfortunately, the Omega was sitting on the bridge again while pulling out, and suddenly cooled out, either a hose or cooling I hope the engine didn’t get anything. The gearbox or the clutch must also have got something off, because when the clutch is pressed no more gears go in, only without a clutch. Become on the weekend or so if time is sometimes a damage line up, but there is certainly not much to save, not even to disassemble and sell in individual parts. Unfortunately.. dear greetings Marek

Hello, I have the problem that my omi in the stand between about 2500 and 3000 totally vibrates. is it the gearbox? it doesn’t matter if I kick the clutch or not. but as I said everything in the stand, don’t really trust me from my pit away. 🙂 curvature is new, timing belts now complete and my gearbox I have to lie around. I don’t know if I can change the sample.? can the vibrating come from the gearbox? am with my Latin end. drive shaft I don’t guess since it’s in the stand and so the drive shaft does not run. I don’t know exactly what to look like with the motor bearings, are a little porous but look well “pushed up”, so not pressed in (don’t know how else to describe it). does that still mean they are over? HELP and thank you already in advance

Now I have my first problem, not even a week of the car and already it spins. The following: Since this morning, it sounds like my Omega 2.5 V6, Bj 98, Automatic, Autogas does not run on all cylinders. He does not really take gas and shakes himself even a little when I stand at the traffic light or something. Consumption at the level 1.7 – 1.8Ltr, before it was 1.2 – 1.3Ltr. He does this both in gas operation and in petrol operation. n 500 – 800 revolutions. Who can tell me what it could be Gruss Holger

I’m curious if anyone knows/recognizes…

Hello, have put another diff in my Omega B the week, and filled about 1,3l of oil (until it came out again to oil filler screw) now after which I drove a few kilometers (200km), I see a larger part of the oil came out for venting. can someone tell me exactly how much oil get into the lock differential?

Hello, and once again unsuspecting abysses open to me. I had my girlfriend fetch the car from the workshop today. They also looked over it again.The master there fell out of all clouds, allegedly in my car wrong and also wrongly built cross handlebars in front.He only meant that at an OPEL workshop the car would not have been issued!!!???? Does such a thing work at all? Estimate approx. 400 – 600€! e drives me crazy ….. PS. These are the built-in (when buying already in) no idea who screwed up that when.

Hello heroes and heroines. I am again at FOH today and asked for the OPEL part number 93183513, that should be the oil separator kit. According to the spare parts program, there is only one valve, without a description. The same result comes from the Internet shop of Genuine Parts. According to the OPEL software, there is nothing in the explosion drawing of the valve cover. The lid and the seals are there, everything is empty and there is a pressure control valve on the lid? ! I don’t want to experiment now, I’m going to the next BMW dealer who took the order with a smile and tomorrow I get the filter. Now to the question: Does OPEL have something new / or something else? Does anyone have access to the TI’s? Greeting…

Hello, my back door has been rusting for years. We also brought the car to the workshop once to remove the rust there, however, it came after 4-6 months again which is quite bad. Because I have now paid for free 210€. Now I tried it myself but somehow I do not know how far I should go. The metal looks quite clean however there are so small cheese holes in it. What should I do with it? Here are some pictures:http://img262.imageshack.us/i mg262/9048/img0046w.jpghttp://img709.imageshack.us/img709/3695/img0045db.jpg What do you want me to do or let it go on? And how do I proceed from now on? I already got rust blockers…

Hello, I had a ZKD damage and have changed it now. The problem now is that if I start the engine, it starts to hit and knock at some point in the upper part of the camshaft. Hydros we have also changed. Somehow it sounds like he doesn’t get oil at the top. Strangely enough, this always goes away for a short time and then comes back again. Now I just let him turn without valve lid and could then see that out of 2 thick Torx bubbles oil r Is that normal or do not have to come out of the small holes of oil??? Does not otherwise know where the beating should come from. Control times are right. Have we certainly set 10 times again. And the valves should not be, because the beating stops now and then… Anyone else an idea that could help me???

Moin Leutz, nch long, long time I need help or advice again. I can’t get my 2.5 DTI through the TÜV. The headlight adjustment doesn’t fit. No problem I thought, 4 screws and the testicle should be solved. Push cake…The reflectors don’t move in mm! So I went home ( Opel said directly new headlights. I couldn’t imagine, however, that both headlights at once are no longer adjustable in height or in the side direction. Al without LWR actuators, the headlamps can be adjusted wonderfully. If I use the actuators again, nothing happens. Maybe I should mention that I have already changed one ( used ), because one of the motors has regulated directly in the final position ( deep ). After the replacement, each actuator worked. Are the actuators there, or do I just have to leave the spotlights “zero” to Opel? Maybe even Greetz Heiko PS: The plugs on the axles are free-accessible and do not sit tight. The plugs (contacts) look good and are not damp.