Category: Opel Omega & Senator Forum

Hello I changed the timing belt for the first time today at the Omega B 2 Liter 16 v. I put camshaft and crankshafts on make-up.. Renewed pulleys and a new tensioning roller. I then strained the belts of full-grained masses put the pulley on new then made two turns of the crankshafts and again set the chip roll on new. After that I started the motor. The chip roll or the piece where new stands on it wobbles back and forth is this normal ?? Bin seit we chsel about 10 kilometers driven everything runs free cover. But now my question can now still happen ?? Thanks

Hello everyone, has to get rid of a question: Did today at our Omega B X20XEV the brake cheeks and also the brake pads have renewed, after we had already renewed them with the discs a few weeks ago and unfortunately, I have to say, we probably had a little “sparing” with the coverings and the cheeks ;-). In any case, these were gone within a very short time, so now today ATE-parts installed. At the test drive it turned out that at once a blazing noise on one side, probably with every wheel turn, there was. 2x the coverings and the cheeks removed again, but we could not find out where this came from. Everything was installed properly and cleaned. Does anyone have any idea what that can be? If not, I have to drive to a workshop tomorrow and invest money again. But also there I would like to be in front of : Well, we have to do everything new! protected, because my better half has already prepared several times our previous car ( old sack 007 and EifelOmega will certainly still remember the thing) very well and also expertly repaired. Thanks in advance says Kikibalu

People, I just stayed the spit away, I build (after instruction here from the forum) the suction bridge out to remove the flaps, and when lifting the suction bridge it clacks and a throttle flap falls off and disappears on the underbody protection! For safety reasons I have then put a brutal stub vacuum cleaner on all 6 suction sockets, if still something would have fallen in, but everything clean! I have always pushed the AUsbau of the throb flaps before me, only today NEcht have I dreamed some shit, and since I decided out of the belly, come throw out the things, 210TKM it went well, I’ll make you out now. And look, shock in all the limbs :-))))

Hello guys, I’ve been driving with a Jetex Fortex ESD since almost 20000km through world history. Visually, he’s just my thing, unfortunately, not so much the hit. He doesn’t buzz a bit anymore after driving off. Do you have an idea like me relatively cheap, legal and decent to get out some more sound? I know he’ll never sound like a V6 and I don’t want to have an omega that you’ll hear from 2km away, but a bit more would be okay. So either a new one will sound like a V6 and I don’t want to have an omega that you’ll hear from 2km away, but a bit more would be okay. en ESD…..Bastuck can be heard much good from or other pre-mufflers?? What do you think you have some tips?

Hello together, I want to/must change the Opel sign at my Omi at the tailgate. Since the chrome has burst off in some places and the plastic looks out, looks totally mistig out of the part. Was also already at the FOH and wanted a new purchase, but should cost 33€ and that is effectively too much money for such a cheap part for me. Therefore I wanted to know if anyone of you knows the OEM order number of this part, then I can try fishing in the bay afterwards . Thanks in the vo Out.

Hello and good day, am here brand new. A few days ago I added an Opel Omega B Caravan BJ 21.10.97 2.0 Ltr petrol with 100Kw/136PS, version Sport with automatic climate control and MID. Of course I have been looking for hours in the forum but I couldn’t find the error I have. I will try to describe it as well as I can. Ignition connected to everything in the valve range: – rev indicator gets a short pulse but when I start the engine ble If I remove the plug from the MID and then start the rev indicator works. I have already changed the MID (same GM and Siemens number – no difference) only then I have no more information from the radio or other information from the BC. Would be nice if despite the many entries that there are already here about fancy rev indicator (always in connection with the tank clock – this always works with me) someone else to me to this problem far Oh yes I have a blue board. Thank you and greeting

Hello omega community! I have the following problem, the wheel box at the rear left is repeatedly infested with rust. After a rusting in the wheel box and under the decorative strip (left) I removed the loose rust, then ground the rest with the wire brush and Schirgelpapier, covered the resulting holes with fiberglass mats and pinned with polyester resin (Presto repair box), then spliced with filler filler (Presto), sanded and varnished. Now after approx. 4 weeks k The brown plague reappears and everything blooms (see pictures).What can you do about it?

Hello now I have a problem with an Omega 2,2 16V of 2001 switch, the car jumped bad yesterday only when it then ran, the engine control light lit. I read out the Omi with my Tech 2 and there came the error code cam wave sensor signal error and underneath present, then I deleted the error and drove a round with it everything no problem, when then I wanted to turn more than 4500 RPM he started to control and stutter, gas away and giving back gas did not help, but the error code did not come back after the delete. When the engine was then warm full gas in all gears pulled without any problems until shortly before the red area. For some months it also displays the error code occasionally, however then the service light lights up: P1555 (0) Not available throttle flaps potentiometer load signal not plausible with motor load P0340 (4) Not available camshaft sensor no signal P0170 (2) Not available I hope this problem had already someone or know how to fix it !? Because petrol is not exactly my specialty

Hello guys, I was just on my way through the snow-covered Hamburg home in Schenefeld and came about 30 meters before my Horeinfahrt to the OnStar button. I had initially thought that I accidentally turned off the radio, but then saw in the display that an emergency call to OnStar was sent. I wanted to stop this call because I thought that there should be no more OnStar since about 2004 anyway, but was already too late. Since I interrupted the connection before I had with someone I suddenly rang my phone (NCDC2015 with telematics unit) and a male voice with slightly Saxon dialect came in and asked if something had happened to me. I first apologized for this call because it happened by mistake, said that everything was fine and then asked which institution I was on the phone with. I had read that this emergency number was being redirected to the ADAC. But the gentleman then said with an OnStar emergency call. And he also knew that the call came from Schenefeld. I was bald and told him that I actually thought that this service was no longer available. He taught me a better one, asked for my name and wished me a nice evening. So this button is still too good, because the Lord would have sent me help otherwise. Is it good to know, right? Many greetings, Klaus

Hello, I had lost the rear part of the cardan wave about 4 months ago. It had been noticeable with a light and later stronger plucking. Until this then simply fell off on the highway. Had then changed the whole cardan wave and the car ran again 1A. But now after 4 months it starts again the same way, when driving or driving in the first or second gear is now again this plucking… … you hear it less, but it feels more. As soon as you faster al This is 40 Km/h, it can’t be felt any more. Did one of you ever have a similar problem? Did I do something wrong during the assembly? If you look at the cardan shaft, you can’t see anything. Can it possibly be the hardy disc or that a screw is too loose or too tight? The car has a manual circuit. I’m afraid that the same thing will happen again.