Category: Opel Omega & Senator Forum

Hello, since I found that one of my Borbet-T rims has suffered a bump, I had a great idea again… I still have 3 rims Borbet BS design lying … However LK 5×120 ET35 in 9×18″….. Now the great idea of screwing 2 of them on the rear axle with H&R adapter plates (20mm widened by this), should fit back even without pulling. At the front there are 7,5×17″ ET35 with LK 5×110 still to buy with expert report for Omega B MV6… W if I organize two pieces of it, and put corresponding tyres on it (which dimension yet no idea), in order to equalize the pull-off circumference, you have a chance to let this even take off at the TÜV? Achja vehicle gets 40mm deeper… For opinions/stimulations I would be very grateful

Hello …. 🙁 to first the most important: NO personal damage! ….I have one rushed into my beautiful Omega today….and the bum thinks I would have just slowed down….. Prehistory…. he bends in front of me to the left I follow…. so far so good…. Type brakes WITHOUT flashing out to the right (garage yard/park bay) I honked for a moment… also a golf should have a blinker on top of it the guy also honks (okee my big blast had to prove himself so again blushed *g*) then shoots the guy after me and probably didn’t know that I turned right…. brake… ruuuumms I called out mobile in the hand 110! after 1 hour!!! then I called again yes we are gone…. *grumble* then the guys come and yes if they just brake…. bla bla then type: you always heat around here…. (ok even if I’m heated today why does he crawl in the back then??? at least. same km/h or?) no matter the greens have finally crossed at the end unclear right position. ALso morg en legal protection insurance and lawyer….. Insurance informed and now I am STINKESAUER!!!! Thank you for listening Damage: ESD torn down, bumper broken bent and broken, back flap dented/lacquer off, license plate and holder dead…. the rest sees the FOH tomorrow Pictures:Picture 1 Image 2 Image 3Picture 4Picture 5Picture 6 MfG Flo

Maybe I’ve got the same problem… At full throttle my omega b 2.5l v6 170hp swallows every now and then, sounds like it’s coming into the speed limiter for a short time. At the same time, it doesn’t pull right at full throttle. It accelerates steadily, but jerky, as if for some reason it couldn’t really turn up. So far, the problem only occurred briefly and every time at a different speed. There are no problems and error messages when driving normally. i.o. engine is dry. The ignition cables were changed only a month ago. At the time he stuttered as if he were not running on all pots. After the ignition cable exchange the problem seemed to be fixed. Would be nice if someone had an idea what the little one lacks.

Hello guys, since last WE the thickness is running again. But when the cylinder head was assembled and assembled, I found that the two camshafts are identical. Lt. EPC I have two release camshafts. Can that be that the intake and outlet camshafts are not different? Have never changed the head at the Omega, let alone the camshafts outside. I also didn’t realize which cam was where, the only deviation is a colored line at the W ellen, 1x green, 1x black… Only if the cams are the same, I now have 220tkm with the engine down without major problems, why are there different numbers in the EPC? Greetings

Hello dear community. Have the following problem: When I inspected my Omega a bit more closely the other day and removed the rear side bars, I discovered a slightly larger rust hole on the rear fender, short behind the wheel box. (Mist mist …) Now the question arises to me, can a new sheet metal be drawn in there, or is this a carrying body area? I would like to receive no answers like “is not worth it”, “economic total damage”, because around We I don’t feel comfortable with this vehicle. Everyone who appreciates his Omega, I think. I attached pictures once. Can you estimate approximate costs or word-case costs, MfG, Carlos

Hello guys, I didn’t find anything about my problem in the search function. I installed a new petrol pump with my omi some time ago. After a few days the following problem occurred. It starts normal and takes normal gas when I start. If I drive around a curve, it does not take gas for a few seconds. I have to go off the gas and slowly give gas again and then it drives normal. I only had that until a short time ago when I want to get around the curve. The question is now it is the motor or the circuit? Have already looked for the transmission / automatic oil. It was missing about a 1⁄4 liter which I filled up. Problem still there. Spark plugs and cables came new about 6 months ago. Could it also be the switchbands that he does not switch down properly and has a too low speed? Have in two We rkstätten asked me and they told me that they couldn’t tell me and I had to leave him there. Well, that can be really expensive. Would be great if someone could give me a tip or someone answered the same one already. I think I can rule out the BP.

Evening. today wanted to change the small Simmering of the gear shaft from the automatic transmission at my grandmother, because it siffles out there. Doof only in order to hit a Simmering or press in one also has to come skilfully. And there is the problem; so the trouser tube solved, the gear boom disassembled, the engine dampers solved….now actually expects, that the gear unit lowers….nix. So, although actually not necessary the cardan shaft was unscrewed from the gear…broken I didn’t change the engine last year and can still remember that when the engine was loosened, the engine with the gearbox was lowered to the point where the engine oil tank was on the axle. And that would also be enough to get cleverly to the ring….everything in all this is only lowered by about 3cm….that’s too little. Could also rub and tear….brought nothing. Tubes and cables all still had air, so where does the crap still hang? doesn’t exist. Does anyone have a T? ip?….is surely more what for the old Seni screwdrivers did I forget something? LG Markus

Hello Omi friends, have had a problem with the Motronic lamp, engine 2.0/116hp_ X20 SE since the cold days. Since then, this is going on and off after hot running phase. I had the fault memory read out in an Opel workshop. As a mistake these indicate: crankshaft sensor. Can it be that this sensor was damaged by the cold weather, temper. partly 17 degrees minus? Vehicle was standing in the open carport, unused for a week. Now the workshop offered me an original, or one This is of course much cheaper in terms of price. At Autoteile24.de, this costs around 70 €, from Hella. My question is: 1.) it may be that the sensor has damaged due to the cold, possibly sweat water at this temp., or are there other reasons? Have already treated the plug with contact cleaner, without success. 2.) Buy brand goods or cheap offer? Thanks already for your help and trouble. E. Helmut

Hello together, I have to sell my Omega because I got myself a Vectra C GTS. Now my question, what can I expect for my Omega? It is an Omega B Caravan 2.2 16V Sport from 09/1999 (Facelift) KM Stand: 165 000 km It has the following equipment: Illuminated interior mirror Xenon headlight with cleaning system Double DIN radio with CD/MP3 + subwoofer, power amplifier and front component system (value approx.: 350€) Tempomat manual gearbox Heated exterior mirror 2 zones Climate-Aut Omatic seats electric height adjustable + manual lumbar support 4x electr. window lifter electr. glass sliding roof fog lights ABS windshield is NEW (detectable with invoice) Defects: TÜV papers are no longer detectable… but actually still TÜV has until the end of 2013… Delle in bonnet and shram in back door (see photo) error message Leuchtw. Driving light in the board computer rust on the door cap, was unprofessionally welded by the previous owner… can be treated however – No rusting. What else can I get for the car? Should I leave the music system in it or expand it? But if I had to sell it “empty”, I only got the original loudspeakers back… Radio I sold back then…

Hello together I had renewed the valve cover seal and the camshaft sealing rings because of oil loss. Has worked as far as possible. I installed a new timing belt in wise foresight, and it worries me. I installed one of Contitech. The problem is that the belt runs too far inside (i.e. towards the motor) over the camshaft gears, that is 1-2mm you can see the teeth of the wheels. Also, the timing belt runs very thinly past the tensioning roller, which he eats, between the pointer of the tensioning roller and the toothed belt is maximum 1mm space, got yesterday almost a heart wreath vessel catar. So in my opinion the complete timing belt runs too close to the motor block. I have often changed the toothed belt but I have never had such a thing, or can it be that the straps always run so close to the tensioning roller and I have never noticed (possibly the new timing belt is narrower than the old one)? Greetings from Opeltrash