Category: Opel Omega & Senator Forum

Hello together ,don’t scare but I mean it seriously since I don’t want to do something wrong at the beginning of the topic timing belts . I’m talking now only about buying …… Is it necessary to get the parts rollers , timing belts and wapu as original parts at Opel or does the ruched from the accessories and if so which manufacturers are recommended ? I hope the question as such is not too stupid ? Greeting from the one who doesn’t know himself at all .

Moin put it together, so now I changed my head and now I wanted to put di eNocken abder the storage blocks have numbers and letters, my old ones also didn’t have it quite like that. Now I don’t know how to put where to put something. Oh so when I took off the old one I saw the whole bad. all eight inlet valves flat and believed 4 outlet were flat. Traces can be seen on the first piston and the fourth the other two only slight tracks. Have everything clean gamcht and set the new head ruaf, tomorrow I want to do the rest and see if he is again lying…. Oh so someone could tell me where which ignition plug comes up and where the plugs come exactly behind the head, didn’t pay attention when expanding. lg marc

Hello people I need help from you. Last week I was at the TÜV or GTÜ. The following defects were found. 501 front axle suspension: rubber bearings / sockets right and left defective. 505 rear axle suspension: rubber bearings / sockets right and left defective. And the end pot has a hole… well I can live with it. The repair should cost me limp 880 €. I almost fell off the chair, now my question wants to screw me or is it really so expensive. are supposed to cost almost 300 €. Otherwise I think about getting a new car. Omega B Caravan 2.0 EZ 12/95 KM power 214,000 Would be nice if I got a tip.

Hello everyone, my problem with my automatic transmission is this: It always switches very soft and normal. Only if it wants to switch to the third gear during a mountain trip, it starts to switch loudly and jerk. If I give more gas ( Kickdown ) it switches back to normal at the moment. Or I go off the gas, then everything runs normally until it wants to switch back to the third. I have noticed that this happens at a speed around the 4000 rpm t. This happens not only on a mountain ride, but also on a straight track. Oil level has been checked, is OK. I still know of my previous automatic driving, which had to be pulled back from time to time. With the gearbox, I was told, there is no longer any more. What could it possibly be. I am afraid that the gearbox will one day fly around my ears. Here’s technical to my vehicle: Opel Omega B Automatic 2.0 liters built in 1995 driven 164,000 km For help beda I don’t know what to do in advance and would be happy about any professional answer. Ps: I have to say that this error does not occur constantly, but only from time to time at irregular intervals.

Hello together, since yesterday proud owner of an Omega B 2.5 V6 CD, Bj 1998, with LPG drive. During the test drive much on me, that the interior heating only blown Lauwarm. The seller literally pressed a few switches during the ride, also the next to the Automatic switch lever, where there is a snowflake on it. He said that would be an additional traction aid, next to the normal TC help. Have read many pages here forum, because of the lukewarm air. But it may be, because the dealer has turned on the air conditioner instead of a traction aid and thus only lukewarm air comes out. I can not test it at the moment, because the vehicle is still due to repairs at the dealer. my next step would have been if I had the vehicle to open the said back door “explained by KurtiBerlin” and to flush the heat exchanger Furthermore, the lambda probe failed according to error memory, even a new one could not fix the error. r opel dealer already had to move it to tomorrow boys and girls hit the keys to give me a few tips in advance

Hello everyone, am I stupid? I bought this summer omi with air conditioning automatic. he cooled well but now that it’s getting colder I tried the heating so the temperature is set up. unfortunately it’s not getting warmer I tried everything even once eco button pressed so the air conditioning compressor quiet gives but not a warm air to feel!!! seat heating alone doesn’t bring it to what it can’t lie about? thank you in advance!!!

Hello guys, I talked to a friend today. He told me that his 98 iger 2.0 16 V is still running for about 5 minutes after the figure. He also pulled the ignition key. He checked the ignition lock. This is fine. Since we both don’t have a plan I wanted to ask you if anyone knows this phenomenon. I got the search function through. Can anyone help me??? gruss Zäpi

Last Thursday after -15 degrees frost the car did not want to start, battery empty. After changing the battery the start engine did not start. The car was towed fom FOH. Diagnosis was a piped diesel filter. In the afternoon the car was brought back and parked. The next morning exactly the same problem. to be towed again to the opel. but now it was according to the FOH the injection pump repair of the pump estimate 1950 euro or new Pu mpe with installation even more expensive. I was able to fetch the car again because he ran again while picking up still the error codes fragd: P0002 fuel volume controller – range/function error circuit P0562 system voltage- too low The car once turned off for safety in the garage. This morning tried to start again and ran without porbleme. I actually only know fault of the injection pump as kaput or not kaput. It was also much clearer there. The engine went off, engine malfunction lamp on and no longer running. At that time the pump itself was upgraded, overhauled at Bosch (about 500 euro ex VAT) and re-installed. So I don’t quite understand why the FOH wants to have 1500 euro for the installation and expansion, everything was only 4 hours work together. what do you think about it? continue driving or repairing it? Opel Omega 2.2 dti 210,000 km bj 02-2001

Good morning, in advance: Yes I used the search function but, ( everyone has found a but ) nothing that somehow fits. Two three months ago the omi in the workshop everything was nice. After ( a few weeks later ) an occasional ruckelei went off. But 3,000 tours on the highway when accelerating went on the MKL and the omi jerked. In the workshop at the tester 20 € all possible errors in total 7. Exterminated again driven then stood firm exhaust gas return valve. G the MKL was there for a short time. So back to Lot, uh, in the workshop 20€ camshaft sensor. The control unit is also immediately displayed as defective, but we only change the camshaft sensor. And look, the same thing. only the MKL doesn’t go on during the ride. But the MKL sometimes goes on when starting, l The next time you start, everything is nice again, except for the jerk. If the 18-year-old son (digital gas foot 0 or 1 ) drives it more than when the father drives the speeding the gas slowly pushes through according to the acceleration. I know to speak to the 2.2 16V Omega with almost 2t of acceleration is something seltam but you know what I mean…. 😉 I have read here about spark plugs, since I will do it today. Nevertheless, I would be interested in your opinion. Thank you. Ps. I am also thinking about buying an OBD. If someone bought something in the last time which also works with the 99er 2.2 let me know. In the bay there are many, but there is often only error read. you can then probably not put it back at all. You a nice WE and my Omi good improvement…( I like it so much…. )

Hello, I would like to tell you again some zm temperature behavior of my 2.2 16V. If it is cold, the temperature goes up to almost 100 degrees in the operation, then it goes down to 90. Since the pointer lingers for a few minutes, then the temperature starts to rise at some point to almost 100 degrees and then slowly commutes back and forth between 92 and 98 degrees. I can’t see that this is related to some kind of driving behavior or speed. At -6 degrees outside temperature. I have the impression that this is not normal. Anyway, I know this from my previous omis differently. Because the pointer was always quite constant at about 90 degrees. My first idea was, of course, that the thermostat was not working properly. I changed it, but there was no change. I also bridged the plug at the top temperature switch of the cooler, the fan is running. 1. Question: How does the temperature behave with your n 2.2 16V’s ? 2. Question: What could lead to such a temperature behaviour? Which components could still be checked? 3. Question: From when does the temperature switch have to switch?