Category: Opel Omega & Senator Forum

Hello, on my 96er omega 2.5 td the air conditioning system does not work properly. the thermostat is new and the cooling water temperature is also jerk back to 92°. the first 30-60 min it is also nice warm in the car, only then it becomes cooler… if you want to have warm air again you have to put on HI, otherwise only cold air comes out. the outside temperature sensor is new…I think the fan (sensor) in the air conditioning unit is defective, does not suck in. how can you fix this? does it even work? then what, have tried to repair my on-board computer (because of pixel errors)… now it is completely scrapped. need a new one, can I take anyone for it and reprogram it at foh or does it have to be another one from 2.5 td? mfg frank

Hello guys, it’s about my B 2.0 16V EZ 10/94 210tkm. If the car is cold, there are no problems. With rising temperature, i.e. a few minutes after the start, the speed of the idling is always higher. A few minutes later it turns up from about 1100 in idling to 2000 and falls off again. So it goes on forever. When I then drive a piece and turn off the car and then start again the MKL goes on. I unlinked the error code: 92 – cams wave sensor. As far as the Sympthome. So what did I do now? Thanks to the instruction of benDragon here in the forum – I did the whole suction system cleaning history. So the two hoses changed, the LLR cleaned, the hollow screw drilled to 3mm and used new seals. The small hose was by the way already decayed and the hollow screw was completely tight. LLR totally dirty. An oil separator was already inside. Can you open the manually for cleaning? What has changed? Almost nothing! I only have the EInpressure that the engine pulls better now. Especially the idling fluctuations are now slightly different. The speed in idling is still changing exactly as described above, however, this is now faster and also slightly higher. So from 1100 to 2500. Before that it was rather like this: 1100 ->wruuuuuuuum 2000->brum->1100 and now 1100 ->wruuumm 2X00->brum->1100 Außerde m the MKL is still working when the car is warm after you hit it off and on again. The camshaft sensor was changed before my time. It is a new plug and cable on it. The cable was soldered to the old one. So I took off the insulation tape around the soldering points to get a cable break on the loop. Nix! However, the plug is torn up by the sensor a bit at the rubber lining. I don’t dare to turn off the plug. Where do I have to press there , doesn’t want to tear off the cable What can I do now? Above all, I would like to know where this sawing comes from?. Is the LLR broken or, as I have already read in another thread, the LMM? Could it also come from the broken camshaft sensor? Thank you for reading. I would be happy if you could help me.

Hello dear ones, my Omi is a 2.0 XEV 136PS got a set of new ignition cables a week ago, because the old ones had sparked and my Omi had thus jerked. Problem perfectly fixed. One week later the following problem: Idle is about 700U/min consumption ABNORMAL is low according to the on-board computer: 0.5L/h Always in the stand (not every time, but sometimes too/frequently) e.g. when waiting at the traffic light lights up the engine control lamp. When starting after about 10m it then extinguishes again and Since the new ignition calves and since the warm temperatures have a significantly lower consumption: 50kmh -> 4,5l/100km What could this be about with the MKL? I used search function, unfortunately found nothing. Thanks in advance. Greetings

who can help me and knows this problem? Omega Combi 2.5 td ́95. We have built in a new battery and now there is a strange problem. Warning flashers and the flashers (in this case ignition) do not work in the state, but could be important for the warning flasher. There is no more blinking after one time. No light and no clapping. Climate, radio etc. work. I then start and drive only 100m everything goes perfectly!!!!!!!!! This stops after turning off the car about 2-3 hours a Then the same game again. When locking or opening the car (theft protection) the turn signals do what they are supposed to do. What can that be??? Maybe someone knows this game? Thank you Angelika

Omega B Facelift To the car: Omega B Facelift Bj.6/2000 144PS 205NM 63000km Marseilerot 1 Elegance – Equipment 1 hand checkbook etc. planned changes: rims:17er from the sport or a few chic 18er 30mm deeper (which feathers are recommended? Maybe the root wood – optics for aluminum look exchange. (does that at all?) Sport – ESD (dezent) Maybe another grill Your can post your opinions. Thank you!!! MFG bender

Hello all, I’ve lost my Opel Omega Kombi 2.6 V6 for a year (built in January 2001, automatic, kilometer 95000). 4 weeks ago I lost my belt disc of the water pump on the motorway. I got the new belt disc cheaply from the Opel dealer and the velcro belt I ordered on the Internet. After about 3 hours of assembly I had changed everything and it ran again perfectly. After that I drove about 300 km without any problems. Last week I drove to work in the morning without any problems. When I started the engine in the evening, it sounded like a diesel and it had almost no more power. The engine was hard to get over 2000 rpm. In addition, the engine control light lit up permanently and after a short time it flashed and then it lit up permanently again. I managed to get home just like that, I fear the worst: engine damage!!! In my helplessness I sneaked to the Opel dealer to get a fault diagnosis. The gentleman in shirt and tie (workshop acceptance) listened to the engine noise and told me that a new engine would be available for 15,000 EUR!!!!. This can only be a very bad joke in my opinion! I bought the car for 7,500 EUR. Can someone help me? Is there any experience with the 2,6 V6? With my screwdriver uncle I have the following assumptions: – Hydrostösel – camshaft Thank you for your help! Greetings Michi

Hello urgently need such a screw! as we have determined today the foh, when he filled up 2.5 years ago or controlled me the screw screwed up. since I will make a new filter and so I need the screw. if one of you has another one I will be very grateful!!!

Hello. I did it. I added a new “toy”. To the data, the rest bring the pictures: Omega A Caravan 3.0 24V Built. 93 km.-Stand no idea, because the tacho broke at 153000 km. However, a new engine is installed, because the old engine had damage. The new one has according to the seller only 105000 km down. Equipment: – Automatic – 4x el. FH – Tempomat (The not yet working) – el. sliding roof – height verst. steering wheel – BC – climate (must be refilled) – Ka wtlaufregler für Euro 2 – Level (Unfortunately damper broken, but should a chassis clean) – AHK – el. and beh. mirror and beh. wash nozzles – additional remote light integrated in the headlights I would like to thank all the participants who helped to procure and repair the car. Kurtberlin, Omega B, altersack007, guard and at Thombeat for the telephone explanation of the laying on of the rib belt So at the next meeting we are now an Omega A more greeting Eifel

Hello, some time ago I asked the question about a rim size. This was also answered well. Now I thought about the Spurrillensensitivity. My old Omega bj. ’95 was true to the mark with a standard size of 195/65 R15 V. The tires were from Conti I never had any problems with it. Now I bought another Omega only bj. ’99 with 225/55 R16 V the standard size in the sport version. Tires Pirelli P7 and the car is so nice… bad z u he wants to go most of the time where I don’t want to go. He’s so sensitive already had new crossbars set the track again, but it doesn’t really get better. I mean having it adjusted after the track was better, but the new crossbars didn’t do anything. The old ones weren’t recognisably knocked out or pinned. I changed them to go safely. Manufacturer Febi Bilstein thus no cheap product. Can the tires come from a lot of control? Nothing has been changed on the chassis for the previous year of construction. This is actually one of the decisive reasons why I would like to get 17 or 18 inches. Also to improve the driving behaviour. Unfortunately, there are still no HD or PU cans and since it will never exist…

Hello together, would have a question about noises at the omi. How does it sound, if the rear wheel bearing is defective. I don’t know exactly what to keep from my noises. From about 50 km/h there is a roaring buzzing noise from the rear part of the car, which spreads very much in the interior up to about 90 km/h. I also have a sporadically occurring poltern that comes from behind, regardless of the speed. ine too loosely adjusted tailgate or if the exhaust would hit somewhere slightly. But can exclude both (backgate and exhaust) . Maybe one of you already had something similar and can help me to get to the bottom of this annoying thing. Greeting, Speedy