Category: Opel Omega & Senator Forum

The following problem makes me crazy… I recently made head gasket with nem Omega B 2,0 16V… Everything worked great.. also jumped immediately! And where he then slowly got temperature MKL… more restless run and when starting it goes out (automatic) He also does not drive faster than 140km/h and also has little power. Is probably due to the emergency program of the SG. Error memory told me intake air temperature sensor, (error 71) and NW sensor (error 92) Everything nice and good.. but this is not always so… while driving the MKL is sometimes off, when restarting again… Does someone have experience with this problem? Need urgent help!!!

Hi … I’m thinking about getting me mv6 … now the thought tweaks me what I could still demand for my omi …. omega b caravan CD 2l16v tuev/au 05/2010…172tkm … clear glass headlights … inside as well as outside very well maintained … tiny rust corner at the back left of the door … otherwise stainless … no dells or scratchers … 3 hand … first-hand police in wittmund as civilian car … no defects …

Hi people, have a question: My Omega was replaced by the engine. the dealer made it with which I bought it about half a year ago, fell still under the warranty. In his opinion the original engine (year 98, 156 000KM, 2.0L 16V Ecotec) had to go out because he was smoking out blue, and constantly an oil pool was under the engine. Cylinders had too much play, changing the valve shaft seals did not bring success, etc…. According to him the replacement engine was equal to old, 1. Han d, would have only 35 000KM, etc… can’t be, right? A 14-year-old engine with 35 000km? besides, it has a lot more flying rust on the thermal guide plates and Krumers like my original motor. The oil measuring rod is also different in the version,….. do not have a good feeling. How can I see how old the engine is and what kind of engine it is. Is that even a 2.0L 16V, why is the oil measuring rod different?? Would be totally great if someone could help me, am at the moment a bit perplexed… . 🙁 On the valve cover of the replacement engine ECOTEC is on it, like the old one. I count on you! Greetings!!!! Ciao I found the engine code now: 603150 X20XE 188688 (X20XE is the 2.0 16V, right? the other numbers still give information about something?) MERCI

Hello together! I’ve had my z22xe irregularly moderate water loss, obvious, over the cracker. At the cold start it runs (more and more often) like a trecker. After my search in the forum remains as (probably) possibilities, clearly ZKD, or even this blow-by bridge at the cylinder head end. First I turned out candles in the morning before the first start and pushed a wire with cotton piece fixed into the cylinders, hoping to find water, was only nothing. at the AGR valve, unscrewed and looking for water, as well… Failed. Then I read here from the “Delete paper test” and also tried to result unsatisfactoryly; no water on the paper, but after the start again in the cracker. Ergo, is it possible that an irregular water loss can take place over the “AGR bridge” or how can I narrow it down exactly? I am already looking forward to your answers. Greetings UB43

Good evening Opel friends, now I’ve seen it for the second time on TV, a method to clean the engine and exhaust line from the inside! And that’s when another fuel is introduced, directly into the engine! then let the car run for a while and after that the car is practically on one from the inside as if it had just run off the tape ^^ I saw this for the first time at “Der Checker” and today at “Den Verwendwagenprofis” now I would like to know about you o b you have already seen a workshop that offers this ? I think this could be something that will do my great good, with which Audi and Jagur there have been significantly improved exhaust gas values and many more throughput but that’s incidentally I just want the car to be able to breathe again Would you be grateful if you had hints, on TV they have already said that it is relatively new and not yet offered in every workshop Greeting Cristian On request k If I also search out the episodes on the net then you see what I mean

Hellow! Was just at the FOH to HU. As expected did not pass, however, because of other defects than I thought. I had reckoned with heaps of defects on the chassis. However, the examiner ran almost around the car and only criticized Kinkerlitzchen for me. This should not be devalued, but rather that it would not be for a narrow penny to be judged. However, there is a problem: AU did not pass because of too high turbidity values. All 3 tests were canceled. Value e see Appendix Sheet 3. How do I get rid of this? What can it be? My driving method: Tägl. 112km work path, of which 74km motorway, speed between 120 and 140km/h with cruise control. Before the motorway there is a climb (on the way back and forth evenly steep) with not insignificant slope, where I always blow up with full throttle in the 3rd gear (about 1km incline). Otherwise rural road and city highway (Westschnellweg in Hannover). Thank you for your tips Greez Timmee

hello people have looked around here but unfortunately found nothing suitable with my omega a big sound rehearsal and that has the predecessor cut off the isto stacker for the radio so the box cables are all individually naja no theme think i me so I have the normal connected color on color for front and for back unfortunately there comes out quite quietly what really krtzig hmm which I connect the plus cable from a box alone to minus output from radio tone ra us can’t be thinking I’m so looking for the error, I’ve looked all the boxes and also the backs that are in the hat rack if the plugs are connected,jo are all on it,Now I’ve been looking for which I’ve been looking further behind the replacement tires is a ticker plug where somehow the forerunner has bridged it’s a thick ISO plug 3 rows,to mention while still that at the driver’s side where the ZV box sits the boxes cables are together that sees mi r like the wire harness of a box system I know of a combi but at the back I have had a wide thick yellow is the thick iso plug driver side back for a bose amplifier?, hope you can help me further or how I can bridge it lg manuel would be happy to thank you

Hello, I have new problems and need your help. – I changed the lamps at my air conditioning system, since that makes no more mucks. I probably killed the board by electrostatic charging! Repair will probably not be possible or priceless. Or what does the control panel cost at FOH ? – The outside temperature sensor says since it is 36.5 degrees. I assume that this is related to the air conditioning. – Since my horn was defective, I have today a new used one built in. I noticed that over the right fanfare a round lid is the loose one! Since I had not picked up the car, I could only feel it! What is behind this lid (the holding clips are defective )?? Aloys

Hello everyone in the forum, after now one year without quirks the fault devil hit again. At times the ABS and TC lamps go on, the speedometer falls off and it no longer works ABS. Sometimes (but really only sometimes..) the steering also does not have the full servo support. My appointment at the FOH was then also not very pleasant. Tech2 could not reach the ABS control unit????!!!!!!! So you wanted to change the control unit directly… approx. 1200,-€. And now to my question e. Who knows the problem and is an exchange really necessary??? Would be really grateful for every tip that it could be… Oh yes. Something else about my treasure… it is a 98 year of construction and equipped with an ABS 5.3… Greeting to all…

Good morning together. In the last 7 years I unfortunately had some trouble and expenses with my old Omega B Bj: 97 but on Tuesday I bought one again with me. It is again the station wagon but now the Facelift EZ 2000 with only 19000 km. It looks like fresh from the band. Has only the basic equipment but I don’t care about the condition and the few km. Hope that I will have more fun with it like with the old one. Many greetings and a nice weekend for all of you, Peter