Category: Opel Omega & Senator Forum

Hello Leutz I drive to Croatia with the caravan in the summer. Since I had a lot of problems with my coolant temperature on the return trip from Fehmarn last summer. I wanted a little prevention. On the one hand he gets a new water pump with the nine tooth rims. Then I wanted to remove the water cooler and spout. In doing so, deposits are to be solved naturally. I wanted to take vinegar, but am not sure if this can be done with the allu from the cooler. After that, I will disassemble the blower and the fans. Then I’ll fill everything with a cold cleaner and free bubbles with the high-pressure cleaner. I want to achieve an optimum cooling performance with these measures, and hope that this will help me to get the cooling problem under control.

Hi, As the title already says, I’m not sure at the diagnosis. The following problem: After last year, I could turn off a pinion of the pendulum’s, now have a metallic cracking. After the listening test during the ride, I could locate front right,. By forcefully pulling down, at the Stabi, I mean, it comes up from the wheelhouse. The usual joints, transverse handlebars, track rods, LZH, I can actually close out. My thought went peculiarly ch first again to the pendulum. But this time I unfortunately could not make it out as a source of error. Also a mirror, to examine the spring coils, in the damping disk did not really bring me further. Now to my question, …. What could cause a metallic cracking on the spring leg or the spring itself. And can one determine a broken spring during shock absorber test, if that should be the cause for cracking. I do not know if it is important or just Random, but it only occurred after this year’s winter tire change.

Hello guys, hope you can help me. I installed a born engine with my Omega B (EZ:03/01) after engine damage. After the first start it did not jump in, overwhelm nuts of the pipes at the top of the injection traverse, there was no diesel. An additional electr. pump in the return clamped and ventilated. He jumped on, ran also like a one, drives well, full power. But when he stands overnight he usually does not go on, also not to org me, but only how much My guess, the fuel system pulls air. Fuel filter housing has already been renewed, also the filter. What made me a bit stubborn was the extremely black/dirty fuel filter (was so dirty, that if you had a black finger with your finger above it, I have never seen it before). No leakage can be seen, it has already been driven about 150 km. As the born motor complete (incl. pump, traverse, injectors, pipes etc.) I probably only built the defect in there with it, before it ran. I have to say, the Fzg. had stood for a year. Thanks schinmal for your help, Tommy.

Moin municipality, my fat guy has now made the jump into the box. First diagnosis: hole in the piston… a short time ago on the way to work, followed by a slight vibration. Stopped and looked after the wheels, of which I initially suspected it, but there was nothing. Continued, where the vibration was also gone. Only he jumped on a tuck worse. This symptom also intensified in the following time, but otherwise there was nothing to notice, maybe a little creepy. A short cleaning, a test run and a look again, and there it was again, the oil… lid from the oil filling opening down, and then the smoke clouds came to me. That was it. I don’t have any more balls to invest even more time and money. Brakes made all around, new LLK, new track rods – the complete program – , new lateral handlebars front, starter new, new winter tires… After I changed things in the course of the past year, I will probably give it somewhere to a butcher. MFD is without pixel error, climate funks also perfectly. Only the body, which is nothing more… The rust gnaws clearly audible… Greetings Peter

is not so easy with the connection (switch) the 10 cables from the plug temomat control unit in the engine compartment A = signal line key 0 B = signal line key I C = signal line key R D = signal line coupling E = mass F = power supply Kl 15 /pulsion plus G = brake signal/brake switch H = bidicular data line/ read out Tech1 /diagnosis plug J = info cable automatic transmission control unit K = signal linefrom ABS control unit(wayway signal) 4 times installation switch tempomat len krad! A = signal line 0 B = power supply Kl 15 Ignition plus C = signal line from key R D = signal line from key I cable laying behind the speedometer connector yellow. E on Kl 2 F on Kl 5 K on Kl 12 distance plug sensor G comes on brake light switch H is Kl 8 in tech plug dashboard under steering wheel right D = clutch switch

Hi, games with the idea to buy me for next year so in februar -April a new car. Since I had 1 year times mv6 (but only about 3weeks) because of defective zkd I would like to pick up the car again this time when it goes with good zkd. My question is what should I pay special attention to when buying the mv6 there are still strong weak spots in exhaust gas and bad exhaust manifolds like is the engine? the 4Gang Automatic gearbox? I would like to max 3700Euro a but with leather and xenon I would like to add 500 more if there is a guarantee. But now you have been asked what you think of the mv6 good or bad car PS: what is a realistic consumption with normal driving white.

Hello Opelgemeinde, I am slowly despairing with my MKL. Until 1 week ago my engine was constantly in the emergency running program (MKL on). I read out the error memory with the flashing diode. Filed error: 3 x 12 – diagnostic start 3 x 92 NWS sensor – wrong signal. I ran and build an original Siemens from the bay with the new oval plug. Motor on MKL is off – joy. Recently MKL times off. Reread error memory. 3 x 12 – diagnostic start, 3 x 13 Lamda, 3 x 92 NWS. What’s that? Can someone help me, am with my Latin at the end. When the MKL is off the car is going great, has acceleration etc. . . Then you start driving. Sometimes after re-engine start or stays on. Sometimes the next morning MKL from all day. Then all day again. Does the NWS with the Lamda do anything (following error) ? Is the MKL off, no error present. Greeting Jugo 2

Hello, yes, because I can’t hear the topic of scrapping premium anymore. I bought my fourth omi two years ago with 198000 km a bit invested and since then a loyal companion: large KD means brakes completely in front with discs, oil change, valve cover seal, distributor changed (yes was an exception) and more had not been except the usual small stuff since then. If I now look around the scrapyards and see what money is being scrapped then you do yes But I’ll tell you one thing.. about the 2500 Euro and drive my mom. Or should one tell me that this should be economical for the private purse if one today finances a car with 20000 Euro. Since 90% of the new cars are financed or leased. My invoice: Purchase 1100 Euro Cost: 400 Euro means 1500 Euro in two years if I look around in my circle of acquaintances so well I drive the oldest car, which have on average so financing rates around the 250 – 400 Euro. But I can say, go on holiday quickly, where others have to consider whether this from the wallet still looks out. and I also drive from A to B no matter how far, but everyone has his own opinion somewhere. Yes, I had to get rid of it once so. Greeting Markus

Today my Omi A 2.6 ran quite restless and a time on it came the engine control light and did not go away. I then sprayed air mass meters with brake cleaner and then went to the parking and start again (about 15min in between) again well. He then runs in the emergency program and of course is certainly not healthy for the car. Presumably LMM or control unit…can it be something else? He did not run on emergency program the full performance neither increased fuel, oil or wasse consumption and is also completely dense… H I L F E !!!!!!!

Hey guys, so my father has a Omega B VFL, with automatic air conditioning the air conditioning works perfectly gets cold and everything around it and so the heating doesn’t work at all you can drive around half an hour on HI and it doesn’t get warm. If you press ECO also nothing changes, from the ventilation comes a bit of lukewarm air but never enough to make the interior really warm. Does anyone have an idea what that could be and where the problem lies? us ks18419