Category: Opel Omega & Senator Forum

Moin. I have a question about a car installation. So: I have a 70A Lima in the car, there is a 56AH battery as a stater battery, then go ic from there with an additional mass tape on the body, and with a 21mm2 cable (4.5m) to a rear distribution block, then a 6mm2 cable is sucked into the trailer, that is again about 5m. Mass is the same also 6mm2 to the WOwa, from the body is conducted. in, if it’s now lean, and I then plug the fuse for the line to the car, the tension in the car goes down to 13volt, and in the Whnwagen come 0.3V less to what is ok, but why breaks the voltage so extreme in the car, I measured times, the batt only sees 8A. ICh am there a little Ratlos Question Thanks already greeting Chris

Hello, as announced here the next question: The winter has managed my battery today! The car did not start, but the warning flashing system started for about 1 minute. When I got off and finished the car this has been addressed again for a minute. What does that mean? And another question: Since my horn does not work I checked once. Security NR 17 controlled according to the manual – OK. Relay also only it does not work. The horn sits d I noticed that at the relay the middle contact 87 seems to have broken off. See picture! Who can help me – I’m an electrician myself just don’t have a schematic. I thank you already in advance. Aloys

Hello all omega friends! In the meantime my contributions were not very valuable here, but your answers were then quite instructive. Without you I could install the hands-free system and the day driving light. Even without a single mistake, only one, I read a lot and put in mind that I could always find it back here. But my decision came, it will be replaced soon … the new: Opel Insignia 2.0CDTI Cosmo. The “old” lady here just drove 216,000km and we ken It really hurts, the decision was not easy, but it happened for 3 weeks. In KW 11 it would be delivered, but I am also a bit curious as it likes when it is driven every day. My girlfriend and I had a lot of fun in the Omega, have been on the road for a lot of miles, on holiday etc… One day I am happy with the people ordered, the other day I think it’s stupid that I am going around, well. Maybe they know the feeling too. The Omega is a part of the family and leave us soon. A part of the family goes into the past. So far the melancholy. Thanks to all of whom I have learned something from, and rest me to wish you all a good and safe ride! Mfg, Jeroen

Last summer, just before the Urlaiub, I bought a 2.5DTI with automatic as a train car for the caravan. My workshop had checked it out and then I went on holiday with a good conscience. I noticed already at the first meters that the turbocharger under load (with caravan darn) whistles between 2 and 3000 revolutions. it is gone again. A short call at my workshop. They meant that this is normal. Just before the Spanish border i If you know the route, that was on the bridge, the last mountain lift in front of the Spanish border. The French workshop did not even have prices after a week. My workshop then when I drive without a trailer I also said back. I did that too. I had to pray on the slopes and at the rest places always wipe the oil off the fender but I came home. The workshop has the pressure regulator But now I have already had 4-5 times the phenomen, which flies the charging air pipe at the top of the engine. In addition, the turbo outside is also more oiled (from my point of view). After I read here in the forum intensive, I had the crankcase ventilation (filter) cleaned in the workshop. But now the problem has occurred again. I also have the whistling noise of the turbo. My workshop thinks that is too much pressure in the whole turbo range. Is one of you already had the same phenomen that the hose runs off and which pressure the turbo builds up with maximum load. Maybe you also have an idea what the whole can be Thank you.

So I now have the following problem: My Omega B MV6 BJ:1995 3 liter caravan…. First of all it is said that I love my Ommies above all and do everything to keep them alive… However, I now have the following problem. I have (must) renew my oil cooler, was not the problem since cheap new ones got stuck in, etc. however it is now so since almost all hoses tried to get rid of the oil water mixed…which was not soo easy…naja on ever the case I had to e.g. the hose (I stand in front of the open engine hood) which goes to trim under the intake shafts above the water pump and from there to the cooler, to get free all my lung force to get this thick oil sludge out of the cooler. that was so hard to push out there, I thought the lung bursts, well when I blew in it came out of the hose that would go to the secondary water pump. after that the GROBEN mud… from the other hatches first, what do I take best to get my cooling water system completely oil-floating again and the second thing what do I have to expand everything to replace the water pump…I don’t know anymore because I didn’t pay attention to it now or just don’t know for sure that the water pump can break through the oil-water mixture so that it pumps more garkein water? so fact is completely broken?? and to conclude whether the te mparatursensor for the vedntilators for cooling water is only the one in the coolant bridge over the oil cooler or if there are even more that regulates this?? because had it run yesterday but the fans don’t jump on, did today the coolant bridge (over the oil cooler) plus built-in parts clean it should have been because it should have been it, I’m not sure but didn’t the directly on the cooler still feeler that regulate the jump of the fans??? yes somewhat cumbersomely written sorry, but who doesn’t mind simply not answering/no non-themed reviews… otherwise really thanks for your trouble…

Hello people, vehicle: omega B Built. 99 136 hp , climate, 2.0 l 16 v since my operating temperature in traffic jam or city traffic between 95-102 C commuted yesterday I first renewed the thermostat. Vehicle ran about 7-10 km constant to 95 C. When I wanted to park the Tempaartur rose again to over 100 C, fan then went on and then it fell back to about 97 C. Now I thought to renew the cooling liquid and clean the system. 1. Where is the drain screw for the cooling. medium ?? Does anyone possibly have a sketch ? 2. Do I need a lifting platform ? 3. Does anyone possibly have another idea what the reason for this Tempaartur could have risen ? I ask for your Infe, will slowly become mad with the box

good day I’m new here and need urgent help have bought me an omega mv6 bj 95 my problem is that constantly the temperature is too high for example car ride with 120 kmh and temp goes to 100 degrees if I would drive even faster still higher in the city it lies at cirka 95 degrees fan work all no water loss thermostat is new and the cooler should not be too long in fact is a longer highway track with high speed is impossible please h Eleventh for me

Next year the Biospirit share is to be increased to 10%. I have seen a report about it on TV. Apparently old car engines are not tolerable with it. Then the affected drivers have to refuel Super Plus !!! I find this a mess. The old Opel engines, e.g. the X20XEV certainly do not tolerate this spirit or ?? So if my engine gets a damage by this stuff I will sue the state and the EU.

Hello, For weeks my V6 X25XE has been causing me problems, and slowly I am coming into time pressure, as I want to go on holiday with the family in a month and need the Omega. Some things I have been able to fix or exclude so far. Currently: It takes a bad gas, sounds like a tractor. In stand or thrust mode it works, when accelerating you have the feeling it only runs on four cylinders or has ignition oscillators. The warmer the engine gets worse. In the beginning it was only in partl until now: – valve lid seals renewed (oil in the candle shafts) – spark plugs renewed – ignition cable renewed – petrol filter renewed – crankcase ventilation cleaned, as well as black part on the suction bridge (what did it do with the ominous drilling on it??? , still not know what???) Next planned steps DIS module or suction bridge resealed (were unfortunately not fully sealed at the last order Questions: Do the planned repairs make sense? Which seals do I really need? Can it also lie on the exhaust system (incl. crackers)? What about the fuel system? What about the crankshaft or camshaft sensor? AGR valve LMM (no change if I pull off the plug) OK a lot of questions, but I hope you can help me. With all the underpressure lines I’m not sure, is there any picture material or sketches of this here in the forum? Thank you in advance

Hello to each other, I hope someone can help me here. I would urgently need the plug assignment for the controller of the ZV. Which would be good, of course, if someone would know on which pin I have to give an impulse to turn off the immobilizer. Last Wednesday everything still worked, in the evening the car locked off the next morning he does not take the remote control (infrared) any more. So car no longer starts because of immobilizer. So to the FOH. Try a The old one didn’t work either. ZV still works via door locks. Then said cable to ZV control unit cuts through power disconnected after 1min again WFS still inside. After a new consultation with FOH we came to the decision that it can only be the IR receiver in the roof. I also wanted to order immediately, not available anymore! Then I read today in a forum that someone has installed an accessory radio remote control and then a I’m really desperate. I don’t want to give up my 14-year-old Omega so much Thanks in advance Greeting Ratzsing Griewel