Category: Opel Omega & Senator Forum

The data: Omega B V6, Motor Y26SE, Bj 2000, Gearbox AR25 KZ DN, mileage 108500 km Last the vehicle was 6 months without moving it. The problem: In the cold start everything is good. The gearbox hardly switches through noticeably all gears cleanly. The whole thing up as well as down. Kickdown also no problem. With increasing temperature (so from 70°) there are switching problems between 2 and 3. When switching up it turns up partly high than if it were in idle. If one is short of the gas, it switches. Shutting down is then sometimes very roughy. It comes as a result also the MKL. Reading from the fault memory with TECH2 brought only the message “Unknown error” the following has been made so far: 1. Oil change with filter change. The oil was brown, roch almost ranzig but did not burn and had the appearance as if it had the full 16 years behind. Both on the magnet as well as in the two oil trays no traces of Spänen or other parts. Only light sludge from the Abrieb. After no improvement. After 100 km, the gear change has not stopped the oil band again neutral again.

Hello everyone! I’m thinking of buying myself a senator next to my Omega Mv 6 and Calibra, but I have some questions. I’ve already used the search function and looked through it. Unfortunately, I only found something suitable. That’s why I’d like to write here. I’ll just count on : 1. Does every senator have the adjustable chassis? 2. Can you just change the Irmscher bumper at the front, so drive with a normal and without registration? (Because grill and headlights are a little smaller) 3. Can you easily retrofit spotlights with windscreen wipers? Find that this looks very good on the car. Is there anything else I should be careful about? Would you like to buy me 204 HP switch. MfG

Hello thanks for the tip with the charging air hose Kurt So as described I converted the engine. Engine runs like a bag nuts. No error in the memory. Had thought of the diesel pump but boschdienst meant then it would be : 1. under conditions leaking 2. bad start 3. qualms at the start or while driving all 3 things hit not to be changed agr Lmm 4. injection nozzle needlehub sensor when I plug off runs even worse so he seems ok to be crankwave sensor of automatic and switch same?? the engine was from an automatic and have now converted to switch and also my switch cable tree laid e technically no faults. then I solved during ongoing operation diesel line also ok you notice that every cylinder works many times also a compression problem am a week reading on the pondering how to test that still can be done

Moin dear Omega community, as the title says, my cooler has just burst. Where? Of course on the upper tube, the typical place. The Bakelite has blessed the time. Can I not use it for a moment. Maybe there is one of the Berliner screwdrivers in stock for a 2.2? May also be one from a butcher. If you have to pick up again tonight, you need the omega, otherwise don’t come away at night. If you have one over, please report, go now to the 2 meter – short sleep.

Hello, would like to introduce me briefly 😉 I am the Thomas 36 years old and drive an Omega B 2,5 MV6 Bj. 95. For a few days the idle speed is very different from my Ommi. When you start the car is mostly everything ok, then you start driving a few kilometers the engine suddenly to turn very high, sometimes even up to almost 3000 turns which then very hesitantly go down again. The whole comes very different and mostly so I think only over 90° engine temperature. Vlt. knows one the problem…… I was clean nevertheless cleaned it, all cables checked, air quantity meters also clean, throttle flaps look good, nevertheless already clean, further does not come to me any more ;-( Would be grateful for any help…… Greeting: Tommek

Hello dear omega riders, after my omega got through the Spanish holiday perfectly, I have a new big problem. When I bought the vehicle, I saw from the tires that it needed an axle measurement. I then installed new crossbars, spring legs, track rods, cathedral bearings and stabilizers. After that I had the vehicle measured. When I had picked up the vehicle the steering wheel stood strongly to the left, which I immediately claimed. We then put the car directly on the stage, the steering wheel with the water scale straight and blocked and we had to find out to our astonishment that all the values had voted almost 100%. Fall, track and run were top! What struck me then, when I brake on the highway and hold the steering wheel firmly, pulls the steering wheel immediately to the left, (brake forces are on both sides the same). Let the steering wheel go and brake the car remains in the top track, but you can see how the steering wheel turns a little to the right. If you lose the brake it can turn off the side of the wheel, the tires are absolutely wrong to the left. If the tires are still checked. But the tires still have to be checked.

Hi, my name is Alex and I’m new to this forum. I’m currently driving an Opel Corsa D with 70 Ps from 2013. I’m 38 years old as a and living in Horst/Elmshorn. I/we are my fiancée and I’m looking for a Zafira for our little family consisting of my fiancée and my 3 stepchildren. Looking for the right Zafira we’ve come across the Omega, an old childhood dream of mine. I’ve dreamed of having it since the Omega there. But I/we’re a little uncertain and therefore I’m going to turn to the forum: I have a few questions to ask: does it make sense to get an Omaga, or is it just too old and are therefore the repair costs simply too high? how reliable is the one-size battleship of Opel ? how much should you spend on it to get a nice Omega and reliable one? We’re looking for an Omaga with automatic and as diesel as well as we’ve found the nice ones in the week.

Hello all, I’m looking for a copy of the vehicle license or letter for an Opel Omega B Limo, Motor Z22XE with first registration after 09/2000. I hope someone can help me here and mail me a copy, the part with the technical data, license plate name and so on can of course be blackened. I would need this for a registration with the TÜV

Hello people, this morning after motor start suddenly batteie control light on,and a little weak have given some gas around 5000-6000 UPM fixed from 4500upm light is very weak and between 5000-6000upm extinguished!!! gas released comes again,motor out of again same… a friend said it is LMA diode,controller or mass point to motor…! What is defective jetz LMA or massepunk?? LMA 100AM (BOSCH)I bought for 85€ with guarantee from schrotti.For the installation he wants to have 30-40€ it is good price? Thanks for your answers!! MFG Reflection

Hello, I had the last winter wheels mounted. At the back the track plates should be removed. There are 20mm plates, these are attached with screws(17 SW) to the vehicle, then the wheel is screwed to the track plate. Now the impact screw has not been fixed correctly and on both sides is each one screw completely round (it was then tried with a 16er nut the disaster still to avert, but also that went wrong). The 2 screws are now completely round. Now everything has been screwed again and the winter wheels are mounted so. How could I remove the track plates best? My solution would be chiseling on or with a slip the head of the round screws (and a part of the distance disc which is then in the way) flex and then remove the plate. To chisel however, I think that such blows, which then also hit the wheel slash is not good at all. If that works with the impact disc and then you take off the disc, is still the question if the screw can be turned off so easily from the wheel scar. However, for example, I would have made the most sense of the tension.