Category: Opel Omega & Senator Forum

Dear Omega experts, I recently changed the timing belt of my X20XEV and changed the water pump as well. As replacement parts I ordered the set “CONTITECH CT870WP2” from Contintal. The drained cooling water was clean and clear as with a new car; I also filled it up again with new Opel coolant and added it to the marking after the venting run (it is still constant after about 500km!). Now I noticed that the cooling water temperature varies significantly more than before, i.e. on the highway 140km/h there is a nearly constant temperature of just over 95°. After the descent the fan will then gladly rise to over 97,5 (rarely up to 100°) . But the worst thing is if after a longer journey still stop-and-go in the city comes to it: then I already thought the 100°. The fan will then run and the temperature will be cooled down so that the red range 110°(?) will not have been reached. Therefore, my question was offered to be less than the amount of water.

Hello together and a happy new year! I have a problem with the Ommi (2.0 16 V, year 95`, climate). The heating is not really warm, or it is warm, then you turn on the fan, the temperature decreases again. All the signs that the water flow in the heat exchanger is too slow. I then saw that the underpressure hose was not connected to the heating valve, then the thing was quickly removed (my hands have 17 joints per finger) once again over the mudcuffs installed from the factory. Functional test passed, when sucking on the hose closed the part (or opened it on the right, depending on the way of viewing) After the installation still the problem, think of the heating cooler sitting on it, will wash it tomorrow. But now the heat test is passed, when sucking on the hose closed the part (or opened it on the right side of the tube). After the installation I have found a little bit of the tube.

Just before the end of the office the winter breaks out again. Lightning ice under the snow. Drive on the driveway, as suddenly from the right calmly a grandmother, my colleague calls such always nicely ‘dry stick’ takes the lead. I fully into the iron, zero chance, pull the handbrake puts me crosswise and thus prevents the impact. My ABS probably died the shock death. Control light does not shine. Later test brakes behave like a car without ABS from earlier times. Am I mistaken or is the ABS on smooth ice without function? On dry road this has always worked and ratted properly. Greeting Axcell

Hi! I had to keep my KW on the oil pump again. I had to keep it up again. I had to keep it up again. I had to keep it up again. I had to keep it up again. I had to keep it up again. I had to keep it up again. I had to keep it up again. I had to keep it up again. I had to keep it up again. I had to keep it up again. I had to keep it up again. I had to keep it up again. I had to keep it up again. I had to keep it up again. I had to keep it up again. I had to keep it up again. I had to keep it up again. I had to keep it up again. I had to keep it up again. I had to keep it up again. I had to keep it up again.

Moin people Although it’s been a time that I’ve only read silently, I don’t think I’ve got a serious problem with my Omega It’s an x20dth in it and I’ve changed Lima. Since then, it hasn’t started. Although the workshop comes into the ECUs with the reader and can read them out, both the engine control unit and the pump control unit have the mistake that they can’t communicate with each other. Maybe anyone has an idea what that can be?? My workshop doesn’t have a…?

Hello people, window lifter driver door cracks pathetic and stops in the middle, wants to change it, doesn’t know how, in which position I get the disc out, what does the disc do, if I have the guide rail of the window lifter out, how can I get it back in? So, I’m perplexed. Now you will say, window lifter has been described tens of times, have found no installation instructions. Kurt already disassemble his picture series about door, is also quite great, but no description of the window lifter. Who can help me? I am very grateful for any help, has certainly made someone!

Hello to each other, just today is unfortunately a lady, around the end of 40, in the parking lot me backwards, with “rolling speed slightly downhill” and relying on her active parking aid in my senator. Luggage rack pressed in the worst, push-tang sits still firmly, but the underlying sheet also massively pressed in. Gengnar was a Toyota Avensis Caravan II, at step speed. I once added a picture to you. Tomorrow I want to join with her, in the Opel contract workshop and she wanted to carry the costs without insurance. On her caravan, apart from slight scratches on the bumper, nothing can be seen. But of your car there are paint tracks on my. Written debt statement I have already written independently and let her sign it. Suspects by acquaintances were said that the body will probably be drawn up and a new sheet has to come in and with at least 2500,-€ to be reckoned with. I am very”ready with the world”.

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Hello to each other After the problem with the crooked ZK is fixed and my Ommi is running again the next problem comes now. My Ommi is a 96er 3.0 MV6 Caravan with just 137000 Km on the clock. For a few days the idle speed causes problems after almost every start. Morning and evening, in the cold state the speed fluctuates so that the light becomes darker and brighter again. After about 1.5-2 min it runs normal. Today the phenomenon also occurred in the warm state. It would also be worth noting that the Ommi now needs a few more revolutions to start than before, because it otherwise jumped already shortly after turning the ignition key. I used the SF but found nothing suitable. For a few helpful tips I would be very grateful. With the best regards Lothar

I’m afraid my AGR valve is broken. Had had an oil stain under the car every day a little bit a year ago, but there was no oil loss. The whole engine was oiled. My alternator killed the oil. After the TÜV had warned about oil loss and I had an engine wash done, there was no oil for a long time. Now there are small oil splashes over the alternator. Fits to the AGR valve. I’ve been rummaging here for a long time and seen a photo of the AGR. There’s a hose on it, I don’t, the nipple also looks as if a hose has to be on it. In the meantime, I’ve read: The AGR is controlled by mechanical pressure box, the exhaust return should only be active at partial load. Therefore, a pressure line to the pressure box, which informs the AGR of the current load situation. My question now: Where does the pressure signal for the AGR come from? Maybe the hose still hangs around and has to be secured. Otherwise, I have to replace it, even if the AGR valve is replaced by the AGR without an order signal.