Category: Opel Omega & Senator Forum

Sacre bleu! (or so) This morning the left pulley of the timing belt was crumbling. Unfortunately far away from home in southern France… sniffing… had just new 2mufflers in it and 2 years TÜV in sight. Merde.. Let’s see what the workshop says. (Probably something French, I will hardly understand it) But the wine and the cheese taste 1A, and as a car rental there is a box duck for luke. ce la vie (or so) . All too big hopes in the granny however I have rather nic I don’t know.

Hello people I am looking for new summer tyres now and wanted to know with which you have had good experiences in size??? Maybe I would change to 225. Had last summer still the Goodyear Eagel F1 (not asymetric) and must say that at the beginning has driven well but already had a very high wear and to the end has become very loud and spongy. I think about getting a Vredestein, Kumho, Hankook possibly.. Currently I drive mostly short distance and only 1x in the year a summer holiday with approx. 2600Km.. What do you think, thank you…

Hello everyone, for my Omega this time it is really tight. TÜV expired!!! Me and my Omega off to the TÜV. And look there… Smooth failed! The defect list is like a crime novel. Oh God is all over now? Do I have to separate from my Omega now? To the defects: foot brake left little brake power. Rear axle absorption rubber plate worn out. So that’s not so bad. I thought. Probably the biggest problem is the electronics The yellow Engine light in the cockpit is defective. Exhaust emissions are too high. Therefore, I don’t get an AU certificate. The fault memory has been read out. Result: Lamdasonde Nachkat, open circuit motor lamp. My mechanic thinks; I should drive on the highway and really warm, so that the KAT reaches its operating temperature. Because without AU there is also no HU. A vicious circle. Now I turn again with my problems and needs to all here in the Motor Talk Forum. Who can help me? n??? Or is everything too late now? Best regards

Hey guys, I finally have to adjust the track because of the change of the crossbar a while ago. And also a cathedral camp is due. As not to be expected, the track bars are fixed at the front. Now I have looked a little and found that there are different OE numbers with the track rods and the cathedral camp (the spring leg mount). 1. What is different with the track bars for the facelift (from Y000001) compared to the VFL? 2. What is different with the middle track bar for Our omega is deeper. 3. Why is the OE number of the spring leg mount also different with the facelift than with the VFL. Only the Y22XE with normal FW has the old OE number. Almost all spare parts, which you get half-way cheap, refer to the OE numbers of the VFL. Only very few manufacturers give as a reference that of the FL. For example, I would pay “only” 30 euros for the dome bearings (incl. recording) of KYB, for which the FL corresponds to the equivalent of Sachs 55 Eu. ro. I don’t want to talk about the NoName things here. With the track rods the same thing. I find here only original GM or TRW sprustangen for the facelift, in the bay there are still unknown ones of ‘nem FOH, which offers there parts (have already ordered there several times, the Quali was also with identification things i.e.). With the middle there is only original (250 Euro/pcs.). What is so different? Ne idea (I also have) or knowledge?

hello, I just drove about half an hour autobahn and I noticed that the temperature of the cool water always fluctuates between 90 and the stroke below and that often, so times 90 and then again the stroke below… is that normal or a sign for thermostat ???

Servus, I have now got two xenon headlights and would like to install them of course. Since I have a level control installed, I also have the inclination sensor at the HA. Is this the sensor that is also used for the ALWR at the Xenon? How is the signal processed or from where can it be obtained? Greeting, Thorsten

Hello together, have the following problem at my omi. Last night on the way home I noticed that the xenons are much higher than usual. I stopped and looked if an ALWR sensor might have hung out, but everything was ok. Also the engine turned off and on again. The headlights both remained much too high. I then drove on to endanger nobody with the fog. This morning then looked at the FOH to test the ALWR. The result but the headlights were both much too high. If he then tried to turn down manually, but according to him only went with the left headlight, the right one would not be able to be adjusted anymore, would probably be defective and would have to be replaced. To my question why the headlights were still normal on Sunday and now were at once much too high, he had no answer, the ALWR is usually.. Then I drove into the Fa. and got the Ommi before a The right not newly adjusted headlight was full 10cm higher than the left. Then try to get the right SW to the height of the left, was contrary to the mechanic’s statement, no problem. I tried to test the ALWR – light and ignition on and the car pressed down and held in front, no reaction, then lifted, again no reaction the headlights did not adjust. The same back p Then the left front wheel and the rod are cut off to the sensor and the sensor lever moves with the hand and see there it moves but only sporadically and with extreme impacts of the sensor lever. Sometimes the headlights go up and down only quickly and sometimes only very slow and stuttering down the next time then the SW does not move at all. At the back it is quite the same. In the middle position with both sensor levers nothing at all, e So at approx. 30° rash from the middle position of the lever up or down in the area of approx. 1cm the headlights move then times. What is going on, is that now normal?? Are both sensors defective or spins the control unit. There is also no error shown in the MID. Hope you can help me, in the search I found at least nothing suitable.

Hello my Ome spins again the BC show me on automatic transmission and it drives again bad but always only the first gear pulls shit without noises on the automatic transmission. It was made: new air volume meter, new spark plugs, new ignition cable, oil change. To make is still curvature seal passenger side!!! Is ordered. Car runs round at first and then it loses speed and drops from 1200U. to 500U., can you help me soon with the dare.

Hello dear omega friends I’ve been having a very strange noise for quite some time after starting the engine (2.5V6 bj 2000FL) you could compare it with the noise of a turbine a very high tone of the after menigen min or sec. stops again depending on what are outside for temp.. Could that be the light mesh? How is that with your 6 change? It is really very annoying because I live in a residential area and tomorrow very early leave the house. Furthermore I would like to know if the exhaust system at the V6 Limo is the same as with the caravan there is a change with me and in the bay only caravan is there. I am very grateful for your help.

was with my OMI (2.5 V6) in the factory town which he sometimes only runs on 4 or 5 pots. They meant that a candle is not to be changed. or it gets really expensive. Does any of you have a tip how to get it out without getting expensive? I would not want to drive with 40ps anymore, why does the engine 170