Category: Opel Omega & Senator Forum

Hello opera friends! for a few days I have noticed that my omega b in the partial load range (1400-1800) is only slightly clapping with warm motor. the noise sounds like the clapping when you speed up undertour. since the motor has hydrostössel, it would be logical that the hydros rather clapping in the cold condition, but that doesn’t do it at all. then have opened the hood and played in empty run with the speeds (cold and warm), but there is no clapping to hear how said only in driving operation and under partial load. if I give light gas at 50kmh in the 4th walk, it is especially good to hear. It is a x20se (8V) motor installed. oil change was made a short time ago(10w40) the previous owner drove with oil addition from Mathy, while always only the filter was changed never the oil. after the purchase the product was let out immediately. have also thought of pleuel bearings, but they should also make themselves noticeable in the empty run especially if one with the speeds spie I? maybe one of you has a tip? mfg

Hello recently the indicator for brake linings light up. This is very annoying, because it lights up again and again. But the brake linings still hold at least 5000 kilometers. My question would be now, if you can stop this signal somehow?

Hello together and still a good new year! I have done a little handicraft work again and would like to retrofit the original DWA. I have already bought the parts cheaply: – Control unit ZV+DWA with matching transmitter (key) – switch DWA with LED – Interior light with ultrasonic sensors – rear side panes with glass break sensors – adjusting motor opening rear flap for DWA – horn for DWA – switch engine compartment with holder Now my question: Does anyone have a photo, where d my holder should be for a 2.5 DTI, but somehow I don’t know how to fit it. Where exactly does the horn go? To my knowledge, it should be that the interior sensors in the B-pillar no longer exist at my year of construction, but are now in the front of the interior light. If I now exchange the old interior light against the sensors, work with the new di e Reading lights no longer work (but the lamp is definitely not defective). Does the reading light work only when you have also changed the control unit? Thank you for your answers. Greetings OmiBausRW

Hi guys, have a problem with my automatic climate control, drive an Omega Caravan 2,2 16V. So far it has not occurred to me, because I do not drive so often with the car, but it seems to have been for some time that the climate compressor no longer runs. The system was refilled last week, however, at the magnetic coupling no more electricity arrives. I have already diligently taken up the search, but unfortunately found nothing paasende to my problem, or already found tips used, unfortunately without success. So in detail, temperature sensor in the control panel cleaned, via the buttons OFF and AUTO re-synchronized. Out of a loud doubt I was already at a free workshop today, which has read out the error memory however no one was deposited. I hope that someone can help me here.

Hello together, since yesterday I have bought a new Sorgenkind, an Omega B Limo, 2.0 16V with 235Tkm on the clock. Unfortunately the engine, after in Jan. this year the cooler has burst, does not jump any more. I have checked up to now the following: engine spins by starter. camshafts also spin, so the towing belt is not torn. spark plugs changed and sparks tested (is there), last spark plug stood completely in the oil. A little fountain (approx. 5-10cm high) was sprayed out with the starter. But don’t know if the pressure is long. The engine doesn’t make any effort to start or does not make a sounder. If I start the ignition, I hear the petrol pump run short, if I then press the valve at the test port, fuel comes out with only little pressure, only after a little gluing does the small fountain come out – is that okay?? Can it be that after the engine room floods with cooler water was the electrical system like relay or motor control damaged and the engine can’t start?? The cooler has burst on the driver’s side around the hose connection. However, the engine does not seem to have been frozen, otherwise the previous owner could not have driven several KMs already. Do you have an idea where I could look purposefully??

Hello, it’s time again. My brake discs „rubbling like crazy. They have run from ATE and about 5000 km – so actually new. Well – may have been spoiled and have to be renewed. But the drama is that I already have the 3rd ones in it on about 20tkm. The first had to run out because of wear, ran until then without problems (didn’t have this phenomenon on one of my vehicles before). Then some of AutoTip came in (yes, don’t hit) and ran up to a visit to the workshop a little over 2 years ago. After the visit to the workshop it was almost impossible to brake – thought the dashboard snaps out. It was incredible! There were prints of the coverings on the windows, like burned in L+R. As I can, I don’t know… but I can think about it. Workshop test drive – the average consumption let it guess… 250km with approx. 12L, then get back with approx. 310km, consumption > 25L. Well. With the workshop there was nothing to do, would only be continued with lawyer good. Just for a few thalers again the one from Tip. Hielten about 7000km, then the scratching was back again. First very easy, after a few days extreme. So now bought from ATE and the saddles/pistons checked for smoothness. Everything ok and nothing to determine. The ATE discs held about 6000 km, then the same again. So again out with it and have me others built in. And: it is back again… I am on it and on to replace BEDE saddles completely, because I no longer I have to say that I have already had various vehicles and have made all the brakes with discs at some point (e.g. Omega A + other B and other makes). Had these problems never(!) and at that time I never paid attention to a manufacturer’s brand. Now I have already passed ATE (the current one does not occur to me, but was also not a no-name). There is nothing hard to fix on both pistons. And I usually move in the right lane – so rather “unsporty! Does anyone still have advice? Shouldn’t at least one piston clamp? Well, and I’m really not doing this for the first time. But with the car is somehow sometimes the worm in it. Greeting Christian

Moin, I’m looking for a senor for the front. I’ve been looking at Ebay for 2 weeks, but I don’t find anything, I don’t know the right name either. Vllt someone else has the part lying around or knows the exact name. My Opel dealer gave me a number 1216038 but that’s probably just a catalog number, with which I can’t start anything Thanks for the help Greeting mr pink EDIT: I would also like to know if the headlight glass is cleaned from the inside can, mMn this has been totally started. However, only on the driver side. I heard that the “clips” can be broken if I take off the glass at the front, is there a trick to that?

Hello, I can have a 2000er Opel Omega V6 2.5 with complete check booklet but 250,000 km on the clock. Looks really good, Firme vehicle but from the right hand of the boss. Had it not so up to now with Opel, looks quite honest. Rost I did not see at the well-known places. Runs quite nicely, switches and brakes well. Check booklet has been kept completely with the dealer, is also everything real. I have already looked. Thanks already, must decide fast

Hello, you need your help and that’s the Omega B 2.0 16 Bj12.95 (xev) I have the following symptoms: The car Jumps quite badly when it runs it sounds like a tank (whether it wouldn’t run on all the paws). Smokes and stinks (after petrol), shakes and shakes. The MKL burns, even after deleting the error (switching off the battery).When I start: When I give gas it goes out (the speed goes in the basement). Hl high. (at normal gas or fast it goes out). Lambda probe I had also bolted out to see if the cat was sitting tight. The week before, the MKL partially went on and he sounded like a tank (same symptoms as described above) once giving gas he ran normal again or after a few meters. Since I could read out only one error in the memory (error code 15). 3-4 weeks earlier KW and NW were changed by originals. I have the following Fe 15 coolant temperature sensor – voltage too high 21 throttle valve potentiometer – voltage too high 24 speed sensor 49 supply voltage – high 54 fuel pump relay – voltage too high 71 intake air temperature sensor – voltage too high 74 air volume/air mass meter – voltage too high What I have already done: LMM exchanged, throttle valve potentiometer replaced, coolant temperature sensor measured. Cold and warm condition. t . Cable searches all hoses for leakage Controlled. Alternator voltage measured 14,9 V. Ignition cable Checked or tested from the other vehicle. (All replaced components from another Omega B removed and replaced my components ran perfectly with the other vehicle) Now I don’t know any more, and therefore I ask for help or tips here, or maybe who of you would have had the same mistakes once e over every tip very grateful greeting BBiba

Unfortunately I have to sell my OMI. An interested person drove with me to a small workshop, the boss set himself the car: 1. Air conditioning: you put the on LOW blows it nicely strong. On HI but very narrow-breasted. Is this really a mistake? I was always satisfied with the temperature control! 2. From below the climate compressor has such a green surface. “It is leaking and soon over” was the comment. 3. The totally new OIL shock absorbers have a completely completely new OMI. “They are leaking and have to be changed.” 4. The “turbo loader resonator” is leaking and the radiator is thus ÖL. That’s right. I know that. But the last workshop meant on my question: “Oh, that’s not so bad, the part costs 100.- and then we change just once it fits”. What do you mean by the points??? By the way: The buyer would pay 4000.-. What do you mean? Omega facelift: BJ 2000 / 147000 km 2,5TD no special equipment, but xenon, seat heating, accident-free, 8 times tired etc.