Category: Opel Omega & Senator Forum

hello, I have the following problem: with my omega b caravan 2,2 16v facelift the front axle is somehow spongy while driving. have a fk winch suspension, 17 inches wheels from the executive with 235 tyres and 1cm track plates installed. now my question: can it be that the carrying joints, track rods cross handlebars… are too weak and makes sense to install these parts of the v6, since these are probably stronger due to the higher weight of the v6?!

Hi Leutz, wanted to change my heat exchanger yesterday. When I unpacked the new (Behr) I noticed that something is clapping in the WT when you shake it. Sounds like there’s a loose part flying around in it. However, since I can’t imagine at my best that there should be something in there that could be clapping, I wanted to ask the experts reading here to confirm if I was right before I do stress at the supplier. I can’t see what that could be. , and you can turn the part, turn it around, shake it… .etc as you want, it won’t come out. So, can that be that there’s a loose part in the WT, which actually belongs in there, or has nothing to clatter as I suppose? Thank you and nice Sunday, pierre

Hello to all experts and screwdrivers I will have some questions in the next few days because I decided to open my engine. He has been having quite a bit of trouble lately. However, since I am still very attached to it 🙂 I also want to invest something and drive it for some time. The first question I have is the special tool for this engine. Because I am well equipped for such things only this engine is after all something more special than normal 4 cylinders. I know that I already need special things for the timing belt. E.g. the camshafts & crankshafts blocking (is already ordered), but where can I get the adjustment instruction for the control times?? so that I can adjust the steering rollers??? hope someone can help me further… LG Benny

Hello, I got my absolute dream car today, my top-maintained Senator 3.0 24v automatic year 92, 163thousand down with tuv, full equipment except leather etc….Has an old man driven. So I got the car today in Dortmund and drove towards Mittelhessen-Marburg, all 1a so far, only if you push the S Tase and accelerate in sport mode times, say a kickdown, starts the S Tase to blink and he switch no more… then e.g. if you drive stand still zb.3. or 4th driving stage on… but I didn’t really start because I don’t want to do that to the gearbox…. When you restart your car everything is top…you don’t keep your fingers off the sports button blinking!!!! WHAT CAN THAT BE??????? Thank you for your help 🙂

Hy people, I drive Opel Omega B 2 liters 16 V, the car is 12 years old. I tipped in diesel fuel and I am with DRIVER. Of course I got really bad and now I have a lot of horror, now the car is standing in the yard and doesn’t start (oh man). Short info: Had 1-2 liters Super petrol as a rest in it. Then I tipped after about 9 liters (Super)Diesel. Also normal, then it started: stutter, speed in the cellar, with kicked gas at the traffic light. and always keep the speed up. Question: 1. Can I vacuum the stuff and then refuel it? 2. Is it possible OR is something broken? 3. Does the Lamda probe break or the cat or are they already? Thanks…

To our experts, what is watching during the dynamometer run? Have on the WE before the Omi times on the dynamometer admit the spores, to determine just what it brings, how far the tacho deviates, and how well the LPG system works. should you pay attention to anything?? oil before checking ect and warm driving is clear as well as the tires are fast enough for it. gruss Hannes

Moin Moin all together, I’m now thinking of getting an Omega B Caravan petrol truck for the first time. Since I’ve only been driving 2.5 TD and 2.5 DTI so far, I don’t have any experience with the gasoline engines. I intend to secure one of the very last gasoline engines with absolute full equipment, as with the 2.5 DTI Executive. I have the following questions for you: – Which is the best gasoline engine, 2.6 or 3.2 liters – Are there or were there even bigger ones? standard engines, such as Irmscher for the Omega – Was there an Omega i Line series that ran regularly off the line or were these only attachments from Irmscher For the communication of your experiences I would be very grateful and certainly also a great help for my purchase decision.

Hello guys, I had an oil change with filter now, adaptation values reset. Omi still jerks. Was then with a FOH, is a good acquaintance of mine, has really bothered. With the factory on the phone, the lapidare answer best got a replacement transmission. The only thing we found out with TECH2, that the converter number at normal speed at about 8000 Umin then when he starts to jerk then it is only at 70, but still drives at the same speed ell. Question: Does someone know where the threshold is taken off and if you can reach the sensor somehow, possibly without a gear expansion. I imagine to my well-founded half-knowledge, if the part provides false data this might be the cause.

hi, after a long abstinez I ended up here again after years, and only because I have problems with my omega…. for years was quiet. but he has now started to consume cool water and coughed on a cylinder in the mornings. so let go of the replacement omega and started to disassemble the big one. after now the heads are down, I unfortunately had to find out that next to the completely rotted head seal also unfortunately a small notch from the cooling circuit in the combustion room of the 6 cylinder is. could be that the notch is 2-3/10 mm deep. now the questions: how far can one plan the cylinder head from the x30xe? do both heads have to be planned? how does this behave with the parts between the heads as the angle between the two changes? or rather just get a replacement head and is good? the stroller now has 155tkm down and is still too bad to throw away. thank you in advance for your answers. greetings andreas

Hello, yes, please read first, then if necessary (not) complain. I bought Omega-Limo a few days ago, of which I knew that the breme rubs. I built the we brake v apart and cleaned everything and provided it with paste. I noticed: 1. Both pistons are smooth-running, the rubber seals are ok. 2. The sliding pins of the saddle on the driver’s side could be screwed in massively bad again, the first courses of the winch of the bolts as well as the brake saddle carrier totally ve The saddle seems to sit tight, but what it does with the braking forces is different. 3. The MINTEX coverings have rubbed the discs tw. only 50 % bare, the rest is rusted, but it also has to be removed somehow 4. Rubbing seems to come from the driver’s side, where the winches are, see above. Question therefore to the professional world: applies my consideration that the defective winches of the glide pins or the brake saddle carrier is the cause for the There are experiences with MINITEX surfaces. They are supposed to come from Textar. How is the defective, unequal grinding effect between surfaces and discs to explain? I’ve had tens of cars, but I’ve never had anything like that before and as the forum shows, it’s similar to other people. Know the braking problems of the cadet E, but not one. The rubbing seems to be a disease of the omega B. Thanks in advance.