Category: Opel Omega & Senator Forum

Have the feeling that my servo pump is saying goodbye! Statement as follows: When I turn in the stand at the steering wheel it is very difficult at 205 tires! When driving myself I don’t notice anything! Does the servo pump make the ass high or the steering gear?

Hello together, I just decided to register here after I’ve sniffed so much here in the last few days.. My Omega 2,2 16V from 2001 is still standing until Tuesday at the dealer’s, then I can finally pick up. After the purchase I searched the internet for something worth knowing and came here on you… The Omega is not the beginning of my Opel career, in the career there are already 2 Opel Manta B, an Omega 3000 and a Senator B 3,0 to me is the pleasant kl I think that we will soon be reading ourselves.. Dominik

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6NY5BjQEvbk&feature=feedu

Hello and greetings to all brave helpers, so, have now renewed the lamda probe and see, the pulsating acceleration is gone! At this point a warm thank you to all who helped me on the right way!!! But unfortunately the speed problem has remained between approx. 4800 rpm and 5500 rpm! After the 5500 rpm, however, it pulls again cleanly up to the limiter. Renewed: Lamda probe, spark plugs, distributor cap, spark plugs, gasoline filter. Dual-Ram works from approx. 4000 rpm and you notice clearly the performance. Question: Ignition cable possibly or ECU? Would I be happy if you could help me with it further. Greetings SAUS

Moin, I drive an Omega B bj 98 2.0liter 100kw which now has 275000 km runer. 35,000km ago, the ZKD was renewed for 600€ in a free workshop. This is now 2 years ago and I had no problems a year, after a year I had severe water loss, due to overpressure on the balancing tank (cooling water) Then I had first changed the lid and when that did not help, the container itself. Then was a time of rest (about a month ago) until it started again on lä I tried it again with a new lid, nothing changed. Now after a longer A-Bahn journey of 700Km I certainly had to tilt 2 liters of water. Oil time the thing as good as nix, fills 250ml to 1500km, everything in the frame. Before 2 years ago the ZKD were made, the engine became extremely warm and drank cooling water, I did not have that now as I said. The engine always stays at 82°, only on long motorway rides under load it gets warm, or in the city traffic, then the fan starts. Yesterday I was finally in the workshop (not the same that changed 2years ago ZKD) And I told him the problem, he smelled briefly at the cooling water and said ZKD 500€ without KR change. The workshop is somehow specialized in Opel, is a free and makes bar prices vllt after all someone has an idea, if this now all Immmmt and the ZKD have to be made. In my opinion 35000 km are quite little, is the “normal” that the change is about to take place again? ICh is of the opinion that the heads have also been sanded plan, so it has not been felt. Greetings from the beautiful Lübeck mr pink

moin need real help changed the battery yesterday then started silk goes the speed no more and the speed indicator, fuel indicator, temperature indicator no longer have the safe and all checked nothing on the radio I did nothing before it went yes without problems what can be the engine is 2l 16v hope one has a good advice ???? mfg

Hi people have a problem with the speedometer, it shows no speed any more. I once hit the battery and then he went short but he had swung. There was nothing made (radio). Was at the factory city where they had connected the Tech 2. They meant that the distance signal is and ABS+ESP is all in order. I already changed the speedometer but without success. What could it be? Did one of you already have such a problem? The BC goes natürlich also no Unfortunately I have to go to the TÜV in Feb. otherwise it wouldn’t matter. Greetings Matthe 2000

Hello colleagues, I am relatively new here and introduce myself briefly. My name is Frank, I am 42 years old/young and I live (still) in Hamburg. As I leave my company car tomorrow I was forced to get a used one from this morning. It has then become an Omi Caravan. If everything goes smoothly this morning gets still TÜV and I can take it over I hope I have a long time of fun at my Omi. A move (620km) is also close and I hope he supports me In this context a question for you Opelans. Which tool should you always have with you (emergency)? Very helpful if here could be shown in detail what exactly and for what, i.e. Torx 25mm for this or that. I also learned car mechanics 150 years ago, however with Audi, VW, Porsche, that’s why I am still screw-turned, but not so on the current with regard to electronic systems. I always want to have tools with me (no whole We rkstatt but the most important one) would therefore be very helpful. So, now I will continue to observe and also support all colleagues with the best will and knowledge with open questions Thank you.

Hello community! I am now building on a model similar to my Opel Omega, it is a vehicle in which the following lamps do not work: – the front right fog lamp – the rear fog lamp(s) In addition a question: Was the rear fog lamp in the year 1994 already on both sides? Or was there only one rear fog lamp? Can anyone possibly tell me how to install the front fog lamp(s) out and again? I really don’t have an Ahnun g, how to get there and how to change the lights.http://img708.imageshack.us/img708/9234/foglight.jpg I am really grateful for every hint, not for nothing I ask such hobbyist questions here in the forum!

Moin, I hope that someone can give me a few more tips: Omega A 2.0i, built in 1986 with about 150,000 original km, no immobilizer. I used the search function but found no solution. Now to the error: the engine said last week that he simply did not want to go out. At the start attempt (so only ignition) the engine control light flawed and then went out. The yellow angels came and said that the crankshaft sensor certainly gave up the spirit, since also no spark of ignition there is – not on the candles and also not on the ignition coil. So: new KWS built in, OMI ran exactly 2o minutes, the same effect: engine out, no spark of ignition… After 1 hour waiting time: new start attempt, engine runs about 2 minutes, same effect: engine out, no spark of ignition…. That’s just the actual condition now: the guy doesn’t start. Unfortunately, there is no ignition coil with the junkis in the vicinity, OMI is probably already too old… I wil and can’t 100d I doubt that the good will succeed. I am grateful for every reasonable tip that somehow leads to success and include the helpers in “my night prayer”. HILFE paulchen27