Category: Opel Omega & Senator Forum

Omega to leave from a box of beer (No elf box and NO KÖLSCH,see pictures and you know why) The above is NOT a joke. Now to the car: The car has a motor damage, probably head, valve or something. It has almost 190.000 down from 1995. It has still almost 2 years Tüv. What has been done in the last 2 years: Almost 2 years ago: He got another used gearbox from a 2.2 with new clutch.The gearbox had about 40,000 on the hump. Exhaust from Kat to h Lima from car with 50,000km (Lima looks newer) cooler now about 1.5 years old. Cross handlebar heads about 1 year old Now the parts of the last 2 months (defect search) thermostat including housing. NWS and KWS (since the old ones but were probably not defective I put them there) Stabistützen front 6 months old (were due for Tüv) spark plugs NEW intake air temperature sensor NEW LMM from the scrap metal (but not so) The body has NO rust and I also had no accident. It is a smoking vehicle where also a dog has driven along (in the trunk in a box) The best way to look at the pictures, who still has a motor or a head lying around can get him ready and then has almost 2 years rest. Oh yes, the car still has a Macke….. every time he is just over the Tüv something expensive is broken that makes him now already for the third time. The one who takes the car with him only has the cost of the cancellation, if no trailer is available I can have a rod (I believe in the good in man .-) And give me one day to clear out my belongings .-)

MOTHER I HAVE MAL NE DUMME QUESTION AND TWO WHEN I HAVE LENSENSE IN MY OMI AND I HAVE THE LIGHT AS THE PEST: QUESTION WHAT CAN I BELIEVE THAT IT BEEN WHEN WHEN XENON HAS A NE IDEE???

Hello dear community, I have a somewhat stupid question, but maybe one of you can give me a recommendation. The situation is this: My Omega Caravan 3.0 V6 from 03/2000 has currently run about 177000 km. At 180822 km, according to the maintenance book, the replacement of the timing belt would be due. But now it is the case that I am on business in Scandinavia and will book my next field service tour with about 4700 km. If I get the timing belt If I am back in Germany, I would have the change interval changed by 878 km. My question now is whether this is questionable, or would have to give me some cause for concern in any way? By the way, the 4 years since the last exchange have not yet passed – only the kilometers would have been exceeded. And actually I didn’t want to have the (but not quite cheap) timing belt change carried out in the long term. What do you think? vall sometimes even exceed something, without the same tearing? Thanks to you already. Many greetings Vince PS: Am frequent driver, mostly long distance at a dignified pace (so the car is not throbbed

Hello forum friends, I have a busy day behind me and need your opinion: this morning I drive on the highway, suddenly the message in the BC: engine oil stand check. I drive out, open the hood: everything full with engine oil, filling lid away. My first thought was that I forgot the lid at the last refill (peellich!!).The ADAC comes, takes me huckpack to the next workshop, because he advises me because of fire danger, the ride (of course with more oil) after a motor car The workshop fills up the oil, washes the engine, puts a new original filling lid on it and makes a short test drive. The mechanic comes back, opens the hood: the same again, lid almost unscathed and everything with oil. Great discussion where the pressure comes from. After some consideration together with the workshop master I come to the decision to complete the approx. 50 km home with a lightly drawn oil measuring rod and without much power requirement. r Motor runs clean and round, no white or black smoke, (cooling water and oil look normal) and if I had wanted it would have been tracked off as usual, so was my impression. My long-standing car mechanic at home (free workshop, proven competence for many years) thought it could be due to an added or frozen crankcase ventilation, piston ring breakage or defective cylinder head seal would be unlikely, since the engine runs well, he can tell me more only tomorrow. Wss you mean, what I have to expect, or what can I add to the possible discussion tomorrow. I hope, of course, that everything will go smoothly. Say what you think about it. Thank you so much and have a nice evening!!

After 248tkm my omega finally succumbs to his second capital engine damage. I just drove my children to the cinema and on the return trip at approx. 190km/h everything went very fast: power loss, huge oil flag, MKL and extreme cooling water loss. The rest of the trip went Huckepack with the yellow angel to my home. The engine is brimming with an oil/diesel mixture and blocked while spinning. There probably the HD pump has its Simmerring. I don’t know what happens to the remains of the Omis yet. I have to let it go first. This event will definitely end my active time in the Omega/Senator area. After 14 years of Omega it may also be something else. But it wouldn’t have to be right now. I will of course continue to look in here and if I may also hit with the F, I will not be able to do anything else. Remdfabrikat at the meeting! You are a great bunch here!!!

Hello together! Since I drive on Friday with the thickness on vacation, I sent my wife to FOH today. Make error memory read out. Result: error message air mass meter error message AGR valve Furthermore it was found that a “connection” T-piece is leaking in the return line of the injectors. That would explain the bad start behavior and the light diesel smell for some time. That the ZV actuator is in the driver’s door o.F., I had already s The FOH has apparently tried, but has not found the T-piece in the part program. Now my questions: – Does anyone of you have the opportunity to find out the part number? – The air mass meter is only 3 years old, can it actually be over again? – The AGR valve is closed by plugging in the underpressure line. Can this set the error code? – Can the LMM error be triggered by the shut down AGR valve where The FOH explicitly said error message LMM, not that the LMM must be defective…… Greeting Robert

Hallöle, I just fought through the FAQs and I noticed: damn, there’s not what I need. That’s why I’m asking if anyone has seen the threat before, please write to me what exactly I have to look for. I have an omega 2.5 v6 petroler bj 94. Now I have ordered a cruise control and built in, i.e.: control panel, flash lever and Bowdenzug. I’m very well suited to the Opel dealer and wanted to get me brake and clutch switch. because: I have model bits car number shot me dead and for that there would be only one clutch switch and a brake light switch. he remembered I should bridge something, but what didn’t he know. in the forum, many have something to do, but what? There is no cable on the control unit between braus/white and blue/red, does it have something to do with it? Do I have to plug a fuse, or is it already stuck (no instruction from the car) It is a switchcar and I would be happy about help.

Hello was today at my Opel dealer to buy me the oil separator for my X20XEV. Then the seller approached me on the new Opel Insignia whether I as Omega driver would not have interested in a brochure of the new Insignia. Of course I immediately deposited my address and received the brochure soon. I was presented with the Insignia as Omega/Vectra successor. Unfortunately there is only a photo on the Internet, see link:http://www2.opel.de/insignia/ Seen right interesting from my opinion. Let’s see how he will.

Can I change that? How? What do I need to replace it there? What are the parts so that I can order them well? Have looked at me and it looks as if the 1 is part with the cat, so no bells are seen. Can I have the workshop done by myself or rather Endt and middle pots have to be new to me too but that’s the thing. smaller evils I think edit have already found in the search but still not smarter times licking

SOS Hmm happy new and continues with the Ommis. I changed the pears at my ECC today all 5. Now I have the following problem, the ads no longer go for temperature and the ones in the middle for the operation and the fan stage. The upper ones each left and right functioning (symbol lighting). Then I made both plugs back again,the yellow right and the black left to check them on solid seat. Back inserted and both audible bar single Now immediately after plugging in the black plug, the ventilation is on its way (I can’t switch anything off). Now I turn off the ignition and take off the keys, from the ignition lock and the fan is still going. As soon as I pull out the black plug again is calm. WHAT IS DA LOS?? The pears at least the top left and right go off with the ignition. But the climate remains dark can’t be on off places and just look at nothing on the ECC except the two Li nk and right just for the symbol lighting. Incidentally, the light guides were the plastic things from the original pears smear. IS THE ECC KAPUT GEGANGEN ???