Category: Opel Omega & Senator Forum

Hello, I’ve read a lot of posts here, but I’m not sure what the cause of my problem can be. And since I recently had to change the turbo and also the engine suspension on the right, I’m zzt. quite economical The problem: Omega sometimes (now more often) does not start in the cold state. He spins, spins, doesn’t start avber. Warm he jumped up so far. First suspicion was on battery, but starting aid of another relatively large diesel didn’t help either.. By pushing it started immediately. From what I’ve read, maybe a (more?) injector could be defective (according to posts in the forum then rather no start problem in the cold state, rather warm?), or the diesel pump under the passenger seat (one hears me, it’s running well), or the pressure control valve of the pump. The crankshaft sensor will probably not be, or? (did I once, it didn’t jump warm at all.) What would you type/what could I check at home? Thank you for all the possible hints for 1-2.

Hello dear community, I wanted to bother you maybe only later because I wanted to change my crossbars today, but when I wanted to leave this morning I had to find out that the clutch suddenly has no effect anymore, really zero, then I looked under the car and how God wants it a thick oil puddle. So I would now suspect the seal between gearbox and engine, could that be? Had jmd already something like that and can I fix that if it is relatively fixed ihow again, lifting platform I did not have but with two ramps it should go or ???

Moin colleagues, I have a little problem with my omega. -> With the search function I had little luck, so now my contribution. I had the car yesterday after 227,000km the first time to the climate check. My “old” Opel dealer said to me at the time: “If you always put out the air conditioning 15min before the end of the journey, you do not need a climate check with disinfection. And if there is too little refrigerant it shuts down anyway. Then you can still do a climate check. “This case I had now on Thursday. Yesterday (Friday) I had the car so because of too low refrigerant level at the FOH to the climate check. Climate cools again, everything is good. This morning I checked in the “cold” condition the ball valve (GM-No.: 13277003) to fill up. At the same time I could observe that air bubbles rose through the cold medium fluid standing on the valve. After a short car ride, the bubbles seemed to be mutated rather to small bubbles in the “cold” condition.

Omega B 2,0 l, 1 36 HP , Caravan, Built 98 I went on holiday with Omi , first 1500 km, with the caravan at the rear, no problems. Cooling water temperature about 96 degrees In Austria, Gerlitzen – Bergstraße: It goes on, without caravans!, Cooling water temperature gets into the red area , Blowing / steam, the ride uphill is over! Return trip: 1500 km, no problems. Because Omi did not like the mountains, I had changed the cooling water pump before. The old pump had no damage. Fan runs impeccable. No coolant loss, the hoses are filled and hot. Cooler is not dirty. Cooling water I had also changed. It is clean. What can I do to prevent Omi from dying of heat death??? Cereale

Moin, I’m new here. I’ve been driving Opel for 30 years, currently an Omega 2.5 TDI BJ 95 and screw a lot of things myself. Now I need your help. The TÜV has written me a one-sided defect report. I could manage everything without using the FOH. So the FOH wanted to work alone for the fog lights, 100-200 EUR depending on the effort. I had a new front apron with foggers installed and the TÜV wanted it to work. I then got it for 5 EUR plus new switch at Ebay. Can at some point describe how to retrofit the cable. In the re-examination he additionally criticized a worn rubber on the stabilizer on the rear axle. Expansion and pushing out of the old part as well as pushing in the new rubber went with a hydraulic press without problems. I get the part in the built-in condition but not pushed far enough over the handle. As soon as the metal books with the iron cursssed, I lack any point of approach for a lever. Someone knows how to get the rubber over the handler. I have to expand the rear axle completely.

moin people, I have an omega 2.0 16v x20xev if I want to start it, it starts badly and only when I play a bit with the gas. the petrol pressure is zero at the start, only when I turn a few seconds it goes up to 3bar, then it also starts, only with gas, but it runs without problems when it is on. takes normal gas on etc. only lights up now the motor electronic lamp, error: “crank angle sensor, voltage too high/low” if the error is deleted, it comes back at the start again. I pull the cable off the sensor, it runs the same way, or jumps the same way.. what can this be? is it the sensor, or maybe the gasoline pump??? please help me quickly, wants to drive this year still round with it mfg

Hello people Yesterday the car just went out during the ride and it wasn’t sprite. My opinion is it’s because of my immobilizer, because the MKL did not light up at the start afterwards and the car did not jump. After a short waiting time it went again. Info:MKL does not light up when the car has not opened with the remote control. You have to open the car with the FB so that the immobilizer is disabled. I still have to say that it smelled a little burnt at the light switch or underneath (can’t exactly determine it) and the smell has not disappeared until now. Maybe someone knows where the module for the immobilizer is installed and how to pull it out or bridge it? Thank you

hi. I need the fastest possible offers for matures. since some persohnen have cancelled the holiday with my parents we can only drive with their own car for cheap money. would like to accept this offer of my parents very much because I could not treat my family for 10 years any more. because you do not get rich on today’s labor market. our car is unfortunately for 3 months with uncarable matures on the farm. therefore look urgently mature until Saturday the 8.8.2009 either serial tyres 205/65 15 inches 94 v this then 4 times or 235/40 18 inches 94 v these then but only 2 times as the rear ones are ok.

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Hello, at the Omi-A I had already changed the transverse handlebars a dozen times. Since my Omega B was at the front right for a long time, the coupling rods and dome bearing exchange but did not bring anything, almost only the transverse handlebar remained over. Somehow you have to use more force with the B-Omi to get the new handlebar in. I made the following order: 1.) rear socket in and screw loosely in. (because otherwise the socket bent and does not go in. 2.) front socket loosely in. 3.) Now comes the convulsion: carrying joint in the axle-screw. Did I break one at, how does it make a professional? I still have the one here for the driver side, I also want to replace, then the track rods new and off for the axle measurement. The two screws for the bearings, must be renewed?