Category: Opel Omega & Senator Forum

Hello guys, we have a problem with an Omega B, 2,2L petrol, switch and the engine code Y22XE. The vehicle has it more often the problem that it starts strongly to jerk and then no more gas takes on. According to error memory is the throttle valve or Irgendein signal at the accelerator pedal ? The MKL starts. The error can be deleted and does not come back immediately. The problem can also usually be solved after multiple engine starts. Then the MKL also goes out. What was done ? – The hose from the valve cover to the throttle flap replaced (did not look good anymore. The frequency of the problem was felt reduced by this ) – valve cover removed and the opening cleaned – throttle flap dismantled, opening cut loose – throttle flap cleaned. If the error reappears and you connect a tester, the two above mentioned errors come out. Do you think the throttle flap is just over or would you have another tip? And can I get a lot of Does anyone want to say what this accelerator sensor could mean? Thank you for your help PS. If the error does not occur, there seems to be power. Got it on about 200 on the track for testing drive

Hello together At the Omega B of my daughter (98er, X20XEV, hand switch, Limo) a breakdown happened to me today. Actually I just wanted to change the camshaft sensor. The MKL lit up and the cross test referred to the NWS. I changed – everything was fine, MKL. Engine ran clean and a few laps on the yard went successful. Car is not registered yet, so I was not allowed to go to the road. Because everything ran so nicely and I still wanted to screw, I decided, n A Sony, which has at the back interchangeable connections for Dauerplus. These are pluggable cable shoes with an insulating cover above it. Before inserting into the Din shaft everything worked well, after that nothing. So radio out again. One of the two insulating covers had shifted when inserting and a contact was free. It must have come to mass. So from home and in the circuit diagram look which security comes into question. Before that I have the car radio installed. Car still driven to his parking lot. MKL again, no speed indicator, no fan. Hmmmm. The defective fuse was of course found quickly and everything now works as it should. Only the MKL continues to glow. The following errors are stored: 0335 wrong speed signal 0100 voltage LMM too low 1503 immobilizer wrong signal Last error could be related to the fact that I used a key without transponder in advance. and since I only have one transponder, the second key is useless. But that’s exactly what I got. In itself everything works perfectly, only the MKL lights up. What to do? Nice weekend Rolf

Hello guys, I have to change the clutch again with the Omega. I now ask myself whether it is enough to change the back bearing (which is included in the clutch kit) or the complete hydraulic central exit. The back bearing is only plugged on. At the Vectra I only changed the bearing at that time. Since the central exit was usually the same as in the Omega (by the way is the same as in the Omega). The outfeed is expensive, costs alone more than the clutch kit of Lu K or Sachs. It’s clear that the needle bearing also has to be new, but what about the mover? I would, if necessary, then pick up the mover from Topran and put the bearing out of the kit on it, since I have not had any bad experiences with the parts of Topran lately. Especially with our city coach I have never had a failure with the parts of Topran… Greetings

This morning I installed new wheel bearings in front. I paid 237,80Euro for the wheel bearings on the left and right. The new wheel bearings are from the same Japanese manufacturer as the ones on it. I already asked how to do it and what tools are needed, I took a few photos as I changed them. For the screw of the wheel bearings I needed a 32 nut and a ratchet. For the complete brake caliper to unscrew an 18 nut. Rems disk to remove 6,7 or 8 Imbus wrench. A hammer and a torque ratchet. The insert is in my opinion easy, and had needed for one side about 1 hour with cigarette breaks 1.Photo with tool

Hello people! Unfortunately, the search is not going to be right anymore.. find nothing else on the net.. 🙁 With my x20xev caravan I have noises at the door. This is especially pronounced on bad roads…sounds as if it was a bit loose or not right, but is only “upside” at the door between roof and door frame. I have already used a rubber care spray, but that only lasted days…. Can’t describe it badly… 😉 My FOH is not capable….there you can probably not use any m achen… ;-( Can I re-create it somehow? (Maybe at the catch hook in the frame?) And then the so 11-13 liters (partly city and 3 times a week 15km highway) swallows. Isn’t it normal or?? I don’t heize, try to change something by defensive driving on the verbauch… does nothing 🙁 Do you also have the famous cracking noise (but don’t find a crack)…or can a broken AGR cause such a loud diesel noise??!??? How do I check that? Thanks for your help … Tipone

It’s annoying that we don’t have a drink holder in the omi (bj.97). Does anyone know any alternatives or where do you store your bottles – cans – … ?

Hello, Does anyone know if there is an easy way for the Eberspächer heaters in the Omega 2.5 DTI to upgrade the whole thing to a stationary heating system? Do you know that of various vehicles with Webasto heaters. The Webasto devices then only have to be wired with an extra control unit so that the whole funkt. Then you can heat by remote control or timer or just ventilate. The latter is also not bad in the summer 🙂 Thanks already for your answers

Hello guys, the other day I drove our leeeere A20 again from Lübeck. Always nice between 200 and the end (220-230 … uphill – downhill …) [yes – everything according to Tacho]. Since it wasn’t exactly warm, I turned on heating. But somehow my air conditioning system blew through time and again really cold air – after 5 minutes it was warm again. It was always 25 degrees on both sides! Then I drove time just under 200 – everything was OK –> and again dr about it started again … what can this be about? To all those who believe I want to fuck them up: It’s completely serious!!! Many times one of you has something like that … Thanks in advance Tom-off-McPomm

Hello together, since yesterday I have a 91er Omage Caravan with 3.0 24V engine. Unfortunately there are some problems that have never disturbed the previous owner and which I would have cleaned up. 1. The electric sunroof only goes up and not back. I just took off the panel and tried to turn the engine by hand with a screwdriver, but it also went only to the position where the engine always shuts down. What can that be, how can I get the part back to work? 2. The left front electric window lift stops after 2/3 and drives back a little bit. Only if I hold this small button close to the switch at the same time it works. 3. The digital clock on the on-board computer often simply stops and thus the clock constantly follows? What is that? 4. The motor sometimes starts to stutter when accelerating, for example like a power hole, it then pulls something, and then someone’s an idea? 5. – X. There’s certainly more to it that I notice in the course of time, but actually the car is really great.. Thank you for your answers, in advance.. Hendrik

Have recently a Omega B 2.5 TD with automatic. Features CD. I wanted to install a cruise control. Have still such a part of my predecessor vehicle. Calls itself Magic Speed MS300. Check out www.elv.de in the shop and car electrics/comfort accessories on the 3rd page. Does anyone know how to install it? Maybe someone knows a guide on the net? Or can someone offer me any other help? Would be very grateful! Clemie