Category: Opel Omega & Senator Forum

moin moin, was a little faster on the road today, highway dry & free, then wanted to turn on the cruise control at ~200km/h but the thickness ignores that, only under ~140km/h can I activate the cruise control, is that normal ?

Hello together, I’m back again. Or rather, my Omega is already having problems again. Since I was so well advised by you last time, I’ll get back to you again and hope you can help me again. I’ve already read through a lot of posts but somehow didn’t find the right one. But now on the subject. My engine block lamp lights up permanently. Yesterday I was at the Opel dealer in the neighboring town. Actually because of another problem. longer sliding operation and then light gas give some of the gear lost and either after a short time or S-key hit the gear again with a jerk. However, the lamp also started with the car and fork key. Then the Omega had no more power and I had to turn off the ignition first. After the engine started again everything went again. The lamp was off again and the Omega switches again. Since I have 100,000 km on the clock, the Opel dealer recommends He didn’t want to promise me that the error was fixed. I nevertheless agreed. The fun cost was € 327,00 (Aua). So far I have only driven about 40 km and had no gear loss. But in order to be able to make a precise statement I have to drive a few km. To the engine block lamp the Opel workshop said: Probably one or both lambda probe (n) is defective. The values would change too little. can not reset the error without a new Lambda probe and would first replace the one and then possibly the second probe and then reset the error. Since the workshop requires € 197.00 per probe without installation, I first refused and thought about correcting the error myself. What I have learned so far: – there would have to be 4 probes (per cat one before and one after) – the 2 probes behind the cat are probably not quite so important (only for finer adjustment) – al 4 probes are identical (possibly a cross exchange is possible) – it would have to be a 4 cable probe – a probe varies depending on the supplier and manufacturer on the Internet from approx. € 55 to € 110 (Universal probe to Bosch probe) – the Bosch probe has the Bosch number: 0 258 006 176 But now finally my questions: – do I read my previous information correctly? – how do I find out which probe is exactly defective? (can I measure the probes with a multimeter? If yes, where and what exactly?) – does e s Makes sense to exchange both probes in front of the cat? – which probe is recommended, which rather not or are there no differences? Very important for me! Does someone have pictures where the probes sit exactly and where they are plugged in??? In advance I thank you and hope you can help me further. Greeting – Michi

Hello OpelianerI Have the following Proble. Drive an Omega 2,2 L gasoline, 4 turquoise, automatic. Limusine. As with us starting from ^15.11. driving with daylight law is I wanted to convert the OMI to daylight, but finder did not find the plug for the relay. have already disassembled the whole right side but found no plug. Safety is to their place No.8 cable goes away, aber plug find Njente. who can give me information for this vehicle where the plug is located. An old Opel Leiden. de type and each vintage is different. it is to stick up trees Claudius1944

Hello, I had the main thermostat changed at my Omega 2.5DTI and still have problems with the engine pumping it takes a very long time until it has reached operating temperature. After 10 minutes drive the pointer of the display starts to hike. I got the old upgraded thermostat from Opel but that has destroyed the installer, has jumped out of the lead I wonder if he has installed the new thermostat properly. How warm will he get with you my safft on cal like today 80 degrees. Greetings Andreas

Hello dear community, I have the problem only after exchange, that my brake (belay & disc new) pulls when braking to the left. It occurs once and then not again. Sometimes it brakes as if it were throwing an anchor and sometimes you have to step in a bit harder. I changed the carrier (right side) for the pads also yesterday, because the floaters had quite a lot of play. I would have thought that the surface has bent despite brake paste. But that also does not seem to have been, d a that is still there. Brake system was also vented. There is no game in the crossbar bushings available. In my oil cooler action in April 2012 I saw porous connections on the vacuum system. And in a thread here I read that it could also be because of it.www.motor-talk.de/…/…effort-little-brakepower-t3346746.html?… And the reading” Now I help myself” does not help me so much Would it make sense to exchange the HBZ?, or if necessary di e vacuum hoses? Advice requested Greeting Opel test driver

Hello together, I already had an Omega B about 6 years ago. At that time a 2.5 V6. Now I am looking for a car in order to be able to complete my travels in the summer. I remember the Omega again. Now I have found the following offer, which I definitely think is worth mentioning.Click me flaws? I only noticed the small dent in the front of the bonnet. I find that not so bad, given the probably very good residual condition. (If you have a problem with this.) You see more, please tell us ) The car is probably full of checkbook. Teeth belts were supposedly renewed at the end of 2010. If I remember this is due every 4 years or 60.000km (which just happens first). So seen the ZR would be still good until the end of 2014. Color and the small aluminium rims I find quite chic equipment is ok. What I like is the automatic. Of course it will be a real cucumber, but for long motorway rides it probably doesn’t matter. I wil The performance of the car doesn’t matter, I finally have my BMW 5, which has enough of it. What do you think? Good offer or much too expensive? I want to get rid of the car as much as possible without (large) loss. Then another nice holiday and thanks to you for your opinions!

I have a problem, maybe it’s not a problem, but I’m not so sure. I noticed today with my omi that when I drive and let it roll out, which in the MID with usage starting from speed 80, the consumption slowly from 3.6l to speed 0 with usage 6,2l , rises without that I give gas. Is this the motor brake or how can I understand that? After 5s then again at speed 0 1,5l consumption is normal. Over 80km/H everything is OK, i.e. without gas give consumption 0.0l under 80km/H fän Is that supposed to be like that or what could be broken?? Greetings and thanks in advance Bluebyter

Hello, have a big problem with my Omega B, BJ 1998, x20xev. The Omega always goes out after 5 minutes and starts again after 20 minutes. The error occurs even if it runs in the garage in the stand gas. I had the error read out and it should be the crankshaft sensor. I changed the crankshaft sensor and the dis ignition module. Unfortunately without success. I noticed that the MKL lamp emits a flash code, 1, 3, 7 and that also without a plug-in bridge. lying on a relay? Or ..? In advance thank you

Moin Omeganer/innen,first of all a “Obituary” *sniff*: Yes, he had retired, my 2.0 16V CD Bj.95, the Macks increased more and more, the age rust, engine leaks massively, injection system in the dut, A-waves, steering, brakes, ZV, timing belts etc. etc….. Sure, you could have saved him, with a lot of work, time and money, but he was simply through. Even with his own achievements it would have been necessary to make him TÜV fine without cosmetics. A R.I.P. in the press would be his fate had been in a month, but what a “cart dealer” offered me, I could not say no (over 1000 Euronen). Should he enjoy his life again on his old days and from next month on through Africa “romp”, he earned it! Enough now, otherwise I still get “Pipi” in the eyes. Stories that life writes: So on last Monday made an appointment to give off, in the morning self-registered, at noon with “KKZ” to Hanover, left, cashed, on foot returned Bzw. wanted some food somewhere and then by taxi to the Railway Station. There I see like with another “Cart” buyer a woman with an edition 100 Cara standing and talking. I had time, so once played mouse. Abstract: His offer was about 1k, she wanted 2,5k, I looked at the car by the way, were busy anyway. Computing, thinking, taxi, train consider, the Bj99 in the head like the 100k KM, one year AU/ TÜV… stood well there, new WR on steel and SR on original aluminum, inside clean, varnish ok, clear a few small quirks, so what. When she just wanted to drive away again (they didn’t come “together”, they approached and said: “for 2 I take it”. The rest went by itself, food weed, contract made, bank was paid, MEiner, they brought to the station, ticket still sponsored and with “new” car back home *joy*. I find the quirks just gradually, how the thing with the ZV driver’s door, thread from the day before yesterday, certainly still need your help with some things but that the next few days… I have to get an overview. So far on my “to do” list (are still about 25 points more, but I can get them alone): (if any of you has tips on one or the other point, would be super to post them or send them to the left of here, so far I have been with the “search” weeny successful dbzgl. ) – re NSW does not glow, lamp i.o., Sheche i.O (is yes for both) cable, plug ? – EFH hi/li without function, LED brighter than with the other three buttons – extension “heating console”, lighting “automatic display” (2. from left) def. – Servo ZV driver door without function, ECU reset did not bring – climate compressor does not switch on, pressure is IMO enough in the system, I let the error read out the days once and report me So, and now you have a nice weekend, I am grateful for every tip, the Omega is really a nice A uto, you can’t do without one… Greetz MAC

servus, since the temperature problems have become more and more severe in recent times, today I went to the cooling system and cleaned it properly, because the water looked quite disgusting. I opened the drain screw on the cooler and emptied a part of the cooling system. a rather disgusting broth will come out. before I had in a bottle water a (attention: no joke!) two-phase dishwasher tab dissolved and the solution + water into the circuit tipped. motor run la food, heating completely turn up (automatic air conditioning on “hi” temperature, ventilation on stage 1), so that the valves are fully open and also flushed there. allow the whole soup to circulate for a good 10 minutes with running motor & closed balance tank. without lid the water is not warm enough, the system pressure is necessary.In between check again and again whether the thermostat has opened. continue to open the drain screw with running motor and at the same time keep the balance fill it with pure fresh water until rel. clear water comes. after a short time, the thermostat will close again. let the motor cool off & let it cool, drain screw back up and drain water out. fill the cooling system again with clear water and let it run. it should not circulate ice-cold water into a hot block! this can cause cracks in the cylinder head. the water should look a little better now, so let the motor run up thermostat again, drain screw on and off top fresh water. very important: repeat the washing process until the water no longer forms foam! this dishwasher crepe must be completely out again! also the thermostat should be open as always as possible, otherwise the broth does not come out everywhere again. close the cooler over the flow empty, 4.5 l glycantine pure and fill up with water. cool system properly ventilate and is good. effect so far: temperature needle is at gaaaaaanz just above 90 grad fixed (before 95 – 98) and goes after 10 min empty run to 92,5. simply try out, cool water should be changed anyway every two years. Greetings, Thorsten