Category: Opel Omega & Senator Forum

Hi I have an Opel Omega MV6 Built in 1994. In the middle armrest is a telephone holder someone can tell me what kind of phone Oel installed as standard? Or what kind of brand it could be.

Servus Omeganer, I finally have a vacation and want to get my fat guy back on track and have a few questions to the experts. Have the hoses to the throttle flap through and cleaned, the thin hose is so completely consistent. But if you connect it to the throttle valve housing no air goes through (mouth to hose breathing). Is this OK or does it have to go through air? I cleaned the riser tube, a lot of oil coal came up. I am looking for a black hole which makes my oil disappear. All about 1000km missing 1.5 l (BC warning light is reported) Does there have any idea what it can lie about? I can close it; No oil is lost (dry) No oil is burned (no blue smoke, no strange smell) No water in the oil or other Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa t. Can it be that it was on the slicked riser tube? It was not completely dense but already pretty dirty. Thanks for the help

At the moment the worm is really in it. In the last few days Omi went out constantly. First reading of the error code: missing speed signal and air quantity meter. Then he deleted the errors, I drove a few minutes through the area until the error appeared again and according to the error code it was the air quantity meter which the FH got me then quite “price value” via the accessory trade. After I changed the part at first showed no improvement. So again to the dealer . He read out again and then the idle speed which according to his statement was very low (700 rpm) was now set to 900 rpm. He said that possibly also one of the speed sensors is defective and in this case he recommended the change of cam and crankshaft sensor. However, this is only necessary if the error should occur again… So, for example, I noticed that the LiMa (Delco is on it) does something that it should not do: it gives rhy I guess that the front ball bearing (on the belt disc) will soon signal its life cycle to end. Now I have already read here in the forum and think that I have already prepared a used Bosch LiMa and had the following offer in the bay in mind: Article number: 160543452327 (http://www.ebay.de/…/160543452327?…). Originally I had thought to change the ball bearings of the Delco. But at the price of the mentioned Ang ebots seems to me that uneconomic. Provided the LiMa fits for my mom. What are your opinions/knowledge/proposals? Thanks already in advance.

When I bought the car 1 1/2 years ago he had Alufelgen 7″x16″ with 225/55 R 16 tires. It was always already when starting up and narrow ranking problems, with normal gas giving he cuckolded himself when starting up and when shunting he shook himself and one had to be careful not to strangle him. No error message and no help with the FOH. Now I have 15″ tire on it and see there, problem done,Sprit consumption in the pronounced short traffic 1/2 l less, far better acceleration I don’t think the 2,2l/144 Ps is suitable for the 16″/225/55 with manual transmission. The only problem in the basement I have now 4 seven spokes Original GM/ Intra Alu rims, without any curb scratchers with almost new Uniroyal Rain Sport 2, 225/55 R 16 95 V. If someone is interested, he can contact me otherwise, I will be in the bay etc. . they may offer, or leave them in the basement greetings Dieter

Soo, already the first Üproblöem is there, unfortunately found in the whole i-net nix. I didn’t give so much gas during the test run, max 120, now I drove today on the highway and wanted to look, he pulls up to 160, then falls down again to 140, if I then briefly walk off the gas and step through again he comes back up to 160 udn then goes down again to 140, as well I notice somehow nothing from the kick-down. Diesel filter is new. Only what I have done is the oil, wanted to do this tomorrow, but that’s why it’s yours, isn’t it?

hi leut… I want to expand my motor to change both bends as they are warped… do I really think that I’m doing this easier? I’ve been looking at all the fun on the lift stage and I saw that the motor on the front axle is screwed and the automatic transmission has a support strut. because from above I must screw away everything that goes so far away, including cylinder heads. I urgently need an experienced screwdriver that I can’t use d cost and time-saving tips can give. many thanks already in advance. greeting thomas

Hello dear forum, after I have solved the problem of my Omega with your help well and quickly he has already his next “wehwechen” Not always, but lyingly my Omega (Kombi 2.0, 16V, automatic) spins while fooling. For example, I am standing at the traffic light and want to start – the engine seems to me as if it swallows itself / gets no air – i.e. it almost does not come from the spot. Then he gets after a few seconds again “air” and drives normally on… Just like that on d he highway – far 120 and wants to oversteer – and the same imperfect it doesn’t do anything except that the engine jerks a bit Then at some point the automatic switches down a gear and the engine pulls again… It’s a pleasure there, sometimes it’s worse… I have the feeling that when I drove some time highway and then it’s slow again it’s the worst. Twice I thought after driving the highway and then ampelstop that the engine at the ampel completely drains. Please help me!!! but please without too many short cuts and technical thanks! Greeting Ute

Hi people I have no question but first I say what it’s about, I want to get an Opel Omega during my apprenticeship, a limousine would like to be the 150hp 2.6 CD but it would also be one with 136hp, because it has a rear drive, and you have with the bisl more fun (drift) than with a front driveler, but my problem is I go home with about 400€ in the apprenticeship now my question is what costs me the Omega about petrol, insurance and taxes would be very grateful about a sinnv Olle Reply PS: I found nothing in Google.

a question in the round, I drive an omega kombi mv6 bj 96. when giving gas blows in front what either curved seal or exhaust manifold, although it still looks new. only when giving gas blows what on the right side. in the stand empty run nothing to hear from blowing or hissing. so in the free workshop and asked what it costs to expand. mean 400 euro the engine must be lowered to be able to expand the exhaust manifold on the right side. that can’t be so right, says the whole axis must be solved said the in the free workshop here in whv. is this all so ??? thank you in advance

Good evening to all !!! I would need your advice, and my uncle got his new used car today. (Opel Omega 2.0, 116PS) Now I have looked at the car once, test drive etc. The following flaws have occurred to me: oil licks (dicker drops, bottom of the engine), turn signals are defect although this was allegedly repaired before purchase (see how), front axle strong flap sounds, air conditioning does not cool, V-rib belt Strong porous (I wouldn’t drive with it), Ignition lines cylinder 1-4 all strongly cracked Zyl. 2 holds straight together, Well some defects may not be the upper hammer, but small cattle also does crap. To what extent or what would the dealer have to repair everything according to the legal warranty ??? Since this could not have happened from 100km driving everything !!! I prefer to give back the car but don’t know now how far you can go there. Yes, it was for now, hope can help me. Gr33tz Da_Fl0