Category: Opel Omega & Senator Forum

Hello together, had already asked a few days ago in the round, but unfortunately no answer received. I then looked for it in the archive and then I thought I had found it. Unfortunately it is not like that. I have no idea now. Motor can be started normally and runs even if it is cold. If it reaches a temperature of about 85-90 degrees it suddenly goes out and cannot be started.( Starter runs, but no ignition takes place) If the engine then starts again is cooled, it starts again until it is warm again. Ignition modules are new,Zündkerzen are new. Who knows a advice? Greeting Christian

Hello dear forum members, Hello Kurt! 🙂 Is that connected with the cracker? The sound didn’t get any worse… Can this be the exhaust pipe under the aperture? Or is it something else? Have you thought about going to the FOH and doing a motor check for 35€ – but I’d better ask here first. Does JEMAND have an IDEE? Please let me know before I start to develop negative feelings against my car (which I find otherwise great)!

Hello just look me for a new car, an Omega B is also the choice. The dear kinship drives several of these magnificent pieces. Would like to hear your opinions about it. Visually all are in good condition, all BJ 94-97 interessieren, engine susceptibility, consumption and subjective driving feelings. So here are the 3 SCHatze: 1: Omega B Kombi, bordeaux Rot, BJ 94, 110 Tkm, Kombi+Automatik, 115 PS Machine Cost: 1000 EUR from Uncle 2: Omega B Limousine, as above only as SChalter, 3 : Omega B in black 97 BJ 155Tkm but 136 HP.. Do you save on the first two fuel compared to 16V? Are the first two more durable? And……the first one is certainly the worst crutch.?

Hi guys, I changed wheels yesterday at my omi, winter bikes down, summer bikes on it. I noticed during the assembly, that in a pneumatic a screw is in the tread. This must have been raced in there already before the last change, because the screw head, it looks like a spax screw, is already a bit sucked off. But the tire has kept its tyre pressure throughout the whole winter. I am not sure now if I have the screw so If I drive to a tyre dealer then he immediately smells a fat business and wants to sell me two new tyres, only for that I don’t have any money right now. Maybe you can give me a hint what to do. Greetings Dick Uncle

Hello Opel friends! Does one of you have an ABE for the black rear lights of Irmscher? I have to go to Tüv with my Ommi and unfortunately find mine no longer! Omege A BJ. 91 Limo! thank you very much in advance! Greetings and until then Agemo3024!

Good day dear people, I have continued to develop a huge problem with the Taqcho of my Omega A caravan, 2,0 Ltr. 85 KW. Tach, on the old Tacho the Tacho snail was broken at the rear part. Then out of advice of an Opelaner and his m.E. technical knowledge have a used Tacho of the Omega A 2,6 Ltr. worried for thank God small money. I do not need to install the Tacho at all, because on the back there are no connection possibilities for a Tachowelle. rhin looking for a functional speedometer for my Omega, can one of you help me? Live in the beautiful Rosengarten near Hamburg.

Moin Schrauberfreunde, the TÜV has only written me a one-sided list this time. Up to one point I have worked everything off (handle levers, new rear wheel brakes complete including brake lines, new main brake cylinder, hand brake rope). However, the last point has it in itself. The engine loses operating material, apparently a mixture of oil and diesel, which is finely distributed. I found two oil leaks, one on the pipe to the oil cooler, obviously a common problem, The second leak you see in the picture: behind the carrier of the alternator. Now my question: how do I get there? Do I, as I fear, have to dismantle the cyinder head, control chain and everything that belongs to it, replace the cylinder head seal, although not defective? Or can I somehow plug the leak differently. In my clever books I did not really find anything. The second problem is to find the diesel source. The nozzle 4 (which with the additional cable) is slightly damp, but not splashing. Otherwise I don’t see any other diesel spraying out. Can I operate the engine without an inlet manifold, so that I can look at the injection pump? How can I get it back tight if necessary? Even a ingot is priceless for me. My omi meanwhile has 423000 km on the hump and still runs reliably. I hope one of you has a solution that doesn’t mean total economic damage.

Hello! Who knows these rims or owns them themselves and has an expert report/old test report for them?? Please report!! THANK YOU!! ARTEC E 8+10×18 ET36+ET42 LK5x110 Naenlochdiameter 72.5 mit Centring auf 65,1mm(Opel) Rim numbers E88536 + E108542 Test report no.55 2009 94 for Opel Omega+Caravan Sales then by: Reifen Deimling, 76448 Durmersheim (Company no longer exists) At Artec I got the old test report, but unfortunately the too ill-readable scho x mal copy and I don’t like to enter this to me, that’s why! WHO has a report or a test report please report!!Thank you!!

Hello have a lie down there! at my opel omega b caravan 2.0 16v xe20xev have removed the suction tube and sent away to have valves glued in by vialle for my gas system. the suction tube is inside again. empty run controller and DK unit were cleaned with special cleaner. so now to my problem… I have reassembled everything and should start the car when I noticed that the plug from the DKpoti was switched to the one from the nw sensor. I have the complete cable ba in order to get rid of everything in order to solder and install everything properly and not to make sure that the plug of the poti and nws are the same and now I have the mallör! error codes were following nwsensor signal faulty and DK sensor voltage too low fc was read out with a tech2 so then I renewed the poti further today I renewed the nwsensor (siemens) and still the same problem! earlier I drove there was strangely the MKL off and no error code available. I turned off the car and restarted zack the fc was back inside! what now ?

Hello guys, I just dropped out of my BOmega 2.5 TD on the highway of the turbocharger. Has someone thrown the anchor, A3 Siebengebirge in the 3rd gear full gas with 90 The typical Turo whistle noise is still there. Whether there is just an air hose or electronic what there is going on??? How does a really defective loader make itself noticeable except that the power is gone? Can you check that somehow? Only the last 50 kilometers is the Consumption could reduce from 7.2 to 6.3 Thank you.