Category: Opel Omega & Senator Forum

Hello. Now I finally have the problem with the air behind me and now something again. Since the car now runs with petrol and also with gas Quietly, I am yesterday with gas to work, all at once there was a loud bang short speed loss but otherwise everything oki (have often driven on gas but never hit it). Today I noticed that on the air filter box the holders are all broken and the lid is loose. 1. Why did the bang go into the air filter box? 2. Di e most important question, can the engine have taken damage? Greeting

Hi people. My MV6 BJ 1996 was recently at the “Friendly” for oil and brake fluid changes. On the bill is now among other things: BEFUND: Timing belt change due. Can this be after original 14.500 km ??? Yes, yes. True already BJ 1996 and original 14.500 km. I looked at the belt once exactly. It looks like new. No cracks, no signs of wear, nothing. Is there besides the miserable long belt that drives the alternator among other things maybe still one under a Thank you for your help. Greetings, MV6-Cruiser

Hello together, one way ahead; I tortured the SEARCH and OMEGA FAQ for hours and unfortunately did not find anything that only aims at the vicinity of my problem. And here iss: I’ve had an Omega 2.0l, 100kw, 16V, BJ 94, Caravan with 165tkm. Since I bought it, I’ve only driven city and country road. A few days ago on the highway, just look at it. From about 3000 u/min the engine started at once extremely jerking. The MKL didn’t get out of the blinking anymore. At 2500 u/min he ran calmly again (MKL again). Had also tried to get the engine into a higher speed range, it could be that the rumbling is only between 3000 and 3500 u/min. When I tried this, the rev counter started to spin. High to 4500, down to 2000. with the same speed and giving gas. New attempt to drive faster than 120: same problem. Then it still has sporadic rumbling (at once also at lower speed). n) only stopped when I made out the Omega briefly in the parking lot. Continued, no more jerking, but then again abn 3000 u/min. Problem occurs under load and in idle when I give gas; sometimes also when I switch at approx. 80 km/h into the 3rd gear to use the motor brake. Is however rarely. The previous owner has allegedly installed new candles and cables, but saw with cylinder 1 humidity in the cable at the distributor. Error reading (BlinkTest lt Emerling) has a I hope very much I have described it as well as I hope you can help me there.

I have a question there someone can tell me where the petrol pressure regulator sits at 2,5 v6 bj97 and if you can easily expand

Hi once called from neugier to the friendly in D-Dorf and wanted to know what the replacement of the cylinder head seals would cost with material on a mv6, because the workshop manager meant around 2T€ so that can be possible I mean is the exchange in mv6 really sooooooo expensive and if no what would he cost about where else?

Hello municipality, since my last oil change before 3500 km I have found a small problem. My “tank” oil period. After 2000 km I had to refill 1 liter and after another 1500 km already half a liter. Constantly came this message “Try oil level”. I do not know where the stuff pulls but he does not lose it. At least outwardly there is nothing to see as below and stains are also not in my parking lot. I have 5W40 in it. il it is too thin or is there something bigger broken? I drive daily 200 km highway and am dependent on the good piece. Please help me, the oil is slowly becoming pig expensive

Hello, I have had the phenomenon for a long time that in the cold and in the warm! condition comes an ever stronger clapping out of the engine room. The noise seems to come directly from below the ECO cover. Think that this can possibly also transmit itself. Have already tried to locate the noise (tickering – something like a sewing machine) with screwdriver. Also it seems to have become a little stronger in the course of time. Also the pulleys / rolls are already in a spring Here thread in conversation – but have been changed during timing belt exchange – no change Presumably it is the Hydros. How elaborate is it to change these? Greeting Christian

hello people… I’m looking for a fat engine for my omega….I have a 2.0 i but I want to build everything from the front to the back and inside….!!! who can give me tips where I get a thick 3 or 4 l engine … like the omega 3000 or omega evo 500…???? where do I get horny front and backdress……can I get 245er 18″ on it ?? of course with the necessary conversions..!!!! my car should just be a fat horny car where everything fits..!!!! I am happy about every answer or any kind of car.! en tip that I can get ..!!!!! Be greetings Monchichi_30

Hello @all, after I have tortured the sufu, have seen my removable oris-ahk with a can and plug on the set image, have read, that at omega b the connection point of the cable or plug behind the flap at the rear light is left, now my questions: is at my “a” the connection point also behind in driving direction left flap in front of rear light? (as described in “b”?) it is enough to remove the flap or do I have to dismantle other plastic covers around the a close (or plug) to come? socket I want to renew, as blinker on the left is possible, sometimes not. and look for the cable connections. annoying, if just the left blinker does not work 100%. On the hanger is not, I tried two, which work on the corsa and kadet. thank you for reply(s) greetings

Hi, this week at my Omega B 2.5 DTI (EZ 7/02) after a mileage of only 259,000 km the injector of the 4th cylinder completely surprisingly said goodbye. I consider this injector lifetime of a vehicle, which was used exclusively in long-distance operation, not exactly a fame sheet in terms of quality. Given the fact that the replacement of the injector should cost about 800,- € (!) and nobody could tell me specifically how long the remaining 5 injectors could who of you has also had problems with the 2.5 DTI injectors and with which running performance?