Category: Opel Omega & Senator Forum

So now it caught me again. Such a crap. Just everything nice and then that. Have no pictures yet, but follow. To the facts: Will leave the site from the building material dealer. There is a huge building truck, which had tilted down. I wait, it still stands. I drive slowly. I pass, and then he drives me in the back to the corner. He sounds around. Always the same theater, with the creeping around. He could not have seen me. I argue that I would have stood and w He should have seen my long vehicle loose when he drives me in the back, also from up there. I already telephoned with his boss, who was himself an Omi driver (diesel faction) and showed himself very understanding and wants to settle this as suggested by me on the small service way. I said that in the clear legal situation I would not like to take the right path, however I left no doubt about it. What a day. Greeting Axcell

Hello dear people, yes I already again ;D My Omega makes more bitches than he runs =/ Latest problem, sporadic death. And it is really sporadic, he ran now for a week alternating times really good and then again bad, then not at all.. The problem expresses itself as follows, in the middle of the ride (where I noticed that it was mostly when riding low-touring) the tour counter starts to twitch, falls out and at the same time the MKL flashes or lights up briefly. otor dies off, but still goes after it enormously, but you can do what you want, uncouple, switch off, give gas or start, the part does not start any more. At some point, if you are lucky, the box starts again, and depending on the luck and mood of the vehicle you will arrive a few kilometers, or only until the next crossing. So, of course, I read out the error codes, and the only error code was 31, which means no signal of the KWS, which is logically because the engine is With a lot of thinking and excluding other possibilities together with 2 mechanics, we thought maybe it’s the KWS after all? I removed it once, cleaned it and carefully turned the crankshaft with a screwdriver, and also the crankshaft cleaned as well as it was possible, then the Ommi ran again a few kilometers. Could of course also have been a coincidence. xD So I’m pretty at the end of my knowledge, I did pretty much everything possible for me. ar, and need your help and advice. Before I forget, here the vehicle data, should finally edit the signature ;D Omega A 2.0 L 116 PS petrol year 1993 185,000 km Thanks already for the help and if you still need data it just says ^^ lg

Hello guys, I need your help with the following problem: My Ome had a conrod damage, shot me 2 holes in the block motor exactly where the oil pressure sensor is sitting and exactly opposite the crankshaft sensor which he also disassembled immediately with. Now I have changed everything i.e. new block motor, new planned cylinder head and what else to change. In the stand it runs well a light ticker is to be heard what is but sometimes away and then returns again. When driving listens you can also trickle, you could say from the sound that it sounds like you’re holding a playing card to the spokes on the bike. Hydro`s ?? If you step on the accelerator pedal for a moment, something clacks in the engine compartment or under the car, but you can’t locate this right away because it sounds different from above than if you’re under the car. Oil change he also got 10W40, this was in there before. Thanks already for your help Mfg Toby

Hi together I’m new here and wanted to introduce myself shortly before I start annoying you with my Proplem So briefly to me, come from the area Nuremberg, 44 years old,and I drive an omega b caravan,usually when it’s not broken. I know it’s not exactly wanted in foren to register and break in right away with his auto-proplems,but I’m totally on the hose and now I’ve been driving around the engine for 4 days and just can’t get a solution. That’s why ic thought h me log in and ask just what you think of my proplem. I had cut the ZKD between the 3 & 4 cylinder, when I had the head and I saw that the head broke out, I wanted to have a general overtaken from Mainz. Everything was taken care of the control times again,12 o’clock both camsw.u. 6 o’clock crankshaft. And now the wheel starts. Everything finished and it doesn’t start,reading device connected error 19 KWS defective,ok new matching bought e nbauten fehler still the same, though now jump on (after long orgling) but only in emergency run. NWS measured ok,KWS measured ok, If he then runs in the standg.absolutely quiet and smooth, but does not turn out beyond 4500 u/min probably limited the emergency run program here. You see I have already searched the forum very recklessly but I just can’t keep coming any further, oh yes, I also did the compression test 1:15;2:14;3:14;4:15 I really beg you to z u help if you can of course. Thanks already for the effort to read the whole. Desperate Norbert.

Hi, although I don’t have “Omi” anymore I like to look at the problems that only the Omega can have. I have to say that I loved driving the car very much (it was an Omega MV6) but now I’m glad that I’m driving a small 325 E30 again, which at least didn’t make so many mistakes. Well in the appendix still a nice picture of my ex and for you Omega drivers always good driving without any problems.

Hello. I have the following problem with an Opel Omega-B Caravon 2.5 DTI:The left-hand steering causes a loud crackling noise from the front axle in the area of the driver’s side. This is so loud that it still makes itself noticeable in the center console. The sound can only be heard bi loaded front axle, when the car is lifted, nothing more can be heard. The FOH has already made both crossbars and carrying joints new as well as the shock absorber bearing at the front left incl. the rubber bearing of the damper, but No improvement. In the steering there is no game to be noticed, the coupling rods are also free of charge. The sound comes only with the half-dead steering wheel to the left, with a little more than a steering wheel turn to the left. It makes short “knack” and then everything is normal again. I feel the hit also in the steering wheel. it feels like a broken spring, but I had it outside today and that is absolutely fine, the rubbers at the two ends are also sitting, the shock absorbers were last week on the TüV test and were all right. Has anyone had an idea or something like that?

Tomorrow people, it’s 0200 and I’m turning on the wheel. I’m going to install my new ZV. (because of the flipkey) Acceptance: the Omega closes/offnet switched on ground and not + switched on. Right? (Omega B of 97) -That means, the open-leitung is constantly 12V. When I press open, the voltage goes back to 0V. And the same for the closing-leitung… Right? Because after connecting, the flashers of the new ZV flash, however, does not close/open. t the old ZV I can still open and close…. The old ZV can still remain connected in parallel. Right??? Of course it would be best if someone could give me the appropriate cable colorings for closing and opening! Hope that someone can help me further… Greeting derhektor

In December I had a valve spring break on my Omega Sport 3.0v6 24V. The ZKD was replaced with ZKD, planned with ZK and everything around it. But now my car is steaming more and more and I have had to refill 4x water in 3 months already. So I got the car back to the workshop yesterday, with the statement that they should check if they have mounted the ZKD correctly. Now they have disassembled everything and say that the ZKD is But they would have been told that it could be the water-cooled AGR valve. Has anyone ever heard of the AGR being water-cooled? Or that is being burned with a defective AGR water? It seems to me a little Spanish. But it has to be cleared in the workshop and that tomorrow morning. So it’s urgent to help!!!!! Mfg

Hi, my Omega A is doing a bit faster driving..so from 60 Km of sanding noises. Metal to metal. It goes like this towards the train of the brake…just not so Schrill, rather dull. Note that it does not occur when braking. If you step on the brake, the wash is immediately away. The wash comes from the front left. The noise does not always occur. But very often. Especially after highway rides. Drive only in the city and never come over 60 is everything wonderful. The Omega A is BJ 1987 and has 122000 KM. The version is CD 2,0i. I have already gelsen with the pinning of the front axle from the FAQs. Only as poltern I wouldn’t call it. I’m ratless. What could be the cause? Thank you already in advance greeting

Hi, I would like to buy a new vehicle now, it should be a combo for everyone, look somewhat “sporty” and especially in the purchase, maintenance not too expensive. Drive around the 30tkm every year, should also be a bit fun, so it should be a 6 cylinder. Also put back several times longer distances, from which you should be already beyond the 200km/h still safely on the road. I then finally got stuck on the Omega B X25Xe, which you get already a The MV6 is too hot for me, the 2.5 V6 is certainly enough for me. I searched through various forums at once, but the following defects always came to fruition immediately: *Wrecks tear almost every vehicle *Dental belts would like to be changed very often To the engines I found quite little, but think already that the V6 is fully gas-resistant, but the Opel machines of the 90s Jah The regular timing belt change is not a problem, it is changed regularly, but how is that with the cracker, you really have to build out the engine to change it, to repair it?? Was there also years of construction, where the crackers did not make probs? Can the crackers also be welded? In advance already thanks for your help LG JIM