Category: Opel Omega & Senator Forum

Hello, last week a nice Mercedes driver hit me. At the back left behind the tire, she hit me. The visible damage is for me… well, no more than scratches ^^ According to the report it is 1000€ net and about 1200€ gross, which came out as damage. If I’m honest, I don’t want to cut all the money in there because the car did not get worse for me. However, I don’t get paid the working hours, if nothing was done I’d rather have my ABS, new tires or an ATP oil change made ^^ I’d have thought more of it than I’d have had it ironed out for 1200€ ^^ Greeting Martin

Good morning, after swapping the KWS and the NWS I got error 340 and error 130 at least once a day. http://www.motor-talk.de/…/…ch-exchange-kws-and-nws-t3560635.html So I reinstalled the old camshaft sensor – now everything is again like before the start of the exchange orgy, I get sporatic again the error 130 and the MKL goes on. You can then delete the error and it stays away again for up to several days. Slowly I spin because I don’t know how i The FOH here is also perplexed, his statement for 1 1/2 years: “That problem is that the sensors are not completely broken and therefore such a mistake is hard to find! They would have had cases where there were problems with the shielding”. The new as the old KWS seems to work otherwise the error would not be as pronounced as before the repair. Therefore, I leave the new KWS in there now, the error must lie somewhere else. I can do nothing else. How do you check this reliably – I don’t have a CO measuring probe. On the plug of the NWS a plastic snap nose is broken. Can that be the reason? The FOH doesn’t think. Is there a replacement plug for my motor? I sent the faulty new NWS back the process should be handled on guarantee. I therefore still don’t know if I can get another or the money back. I will change the one again anyway, that does not lead to any error. I can only exchange the upper lambda probe. If the cable is too busy I am not going to take the fair, because then the search will be like the pin in the haystack. Even if I find the cable there is for parts of the wire harness exchange? Am not in the ADAC what should I do where should I turn? Is one of you from Upper Franconia who might help me? Many greetings

Hello ! I have an Omega B Caravan , EZ 98 , X25XE with manual transmission and at 50 km/h in the 3rd gear and at 80 km/h in the 4th it vibrates from the rear axle – my feeling to the right. Wheel bearings , axle bearings and hardy disks are obviously in order. Vibrating occurs only at the mentioned speeds and that is very annoying because it vibrates inside and in 70`s zones permanently. 10 km/h over it is gone…. Do you have a tip for me ?

hello together, have a big problem with my omega b kombi 3.0 automatic! have renewed the cylinder head seals and the timing belt. motor is back together, runs in empty run very nice (about 500-600 u/min)! even if I raise the speed it turns very nice round! the whole is finished at the moment I insert a direction of travel (R / D). runs now like a bag of nuts!!! when trying to drive it gets worse and worse. I put the automatic transmission back on N or P beko If he’s back in and runs great again! I’ve turned off the error memory. the control unit has filed the following error: FC-144 FC-145 FC-57 FC-16 FC-69 FC-19 FC-21 FC-129 I have no idea, watt is going now! about a tip I would be incredibly grateful! many greetings from köln

Hello and good morning dear Opel friends! Now after a long illness I get back a bit patched together again… I had explained my “bird chirping” then and now I have to realize that it definitely comes from the turbo. Under load the sometimes chirping. Hose and clamp sit but reasonable and tight. On normal country road rides you do not notice the “performance loss” either. But with highway rides when you go on the gas, there comes nothing and in the next moment he marches again, as bitten by a tarantula… Can this lie on the air mass meter? Or is this all a combination of the turbo? Then he really torments himself with high speeds up to 120 or 130 and then is the end?!? In the next moment he goes 230 again?!? Thanks for your help! Greeting Joe

Hello, I would like to hear your opinion about a diagnosis of my workshop. A Blubbernder Krummer led me to Opel. It was replaced (dried and bolts torn down). The entire exhaust system was replaced (old and extinguished). As far as so good. After a month of Krummer Blubbert again. Back to the workshop. Again Krummer and Bolt New (on guarantee ). After error reading was seen, throttle flap potentiometer, camshaft sensor, crankshaft sensor. Opel: this is our Problem, due to the defects throttle flap pot. is burned wrongly and the cracker too hot. Therefore delay and bolts off. Error Check according to plan approx.. 3 hours. Everything clear ? After a long time call from Opel: After verification new finding: It comes out of the cable on the large plug of the main control unit, thereby impurity on the plug and error message. Potentiometers and sensors themselves, are Ok. There must be two cable sets renewed, 1.700 € and 700€ plus wages, Total €3,500.

First of all, hello to everyone here in the forum, am new here and have the first question right away. So the car: Opel Omega B MV6 BJ 1998 km 185000 automatic So now to the problems: So I had various things done at about 165000km like ZKD, valve shaft seals, tooth and rib belts, WAPU and a few small things. So far it was running top, but the problems start again. When it is cold and is started there is a strange loud whistle in the engine compartment, this is nac h about 1-2min away. The speed also plays a bit crazy. Sometimes with a little over 1000 then it goes short to 500 and then again 1000. this plays 3-4 times. The bigger problem however is that it gets warm very quickly. in cold weather so at 93° in warm weather and during long rides also in cold around 95° or a little higher. however, if I then park the car, especially after longer distances, the fan runs only shortly after about 10 sec. I then want the car 5 min later sta rten is the temp at about 97° or higher and it does not start. Must then wait half an hour or so. If I drive longer distances and it is at 95°, other things also occur like e.g. the servo becomes weaker, steering wheel is difficult to rotate or the automatic switches very jerky. hope I could explain it halfway. would be happy if you can help me. I know that a remote diagnosis is difficult;-). many thanks in advance MFG

Hello after a long time, I bought again an omega after I had enough vectra drive. I had a diesel 2.5 td and now because of fine dust a 2.5 v6 1998 automatic with d3 bought v or about 3 hours. when I give gas comes simply nix and from time to time he pulls then as he should and is at the sottern like crazy puff is a bit leaky but that can’t be…. on 230kmh I was just on the track and until then has taken forever switch does the gear very well… achso 125 tkm run…..do you have a idea???? thank you in advance

Hello ! I am so slow looking for new shoes for Omi ! Will soon winter ! Since , I have come across the following offer ! !NEUE DOT! Winter tire WINTER-GRIP 3 215/55 R16 93H MORE PROFILE ca.11mm ! ]Winter tires with 11 mm profile ! Renewed to the price 43.99€ Is that good or scrap ! ? ! I just think so ! Although I can not imagine that the things will last long ,if I fly in winter with 190 km/h over the track !

Hello guys, can you set the Senator B down to Euro 2 with 156hp with a cold-running controller or can’t it? Would you like to get one very cheap. Thank you and your best regards.