Category: Opel Omega & Senator Forum

The old bridge has a Temp-feeler but I did not find a free plug there. However, it can also be that the wire harness was also changed because I got a tree. What does the loss of the sensor mean?? On the right side of the engine compartment there are two black vacuum hoses at the top of the spray wall. E the two go under the cover of the suction bridge (connector) and then where else. with me the end of the line hangs freely around. Where does it belong??? In the small fuse box (motor room) the fuse for the charging air cooler fan has burned down with me, so that I had changed the fan after a short check. That also fits to the temperature problem. Now it is unfortunately that the temperature on the track still rises and that the fuse still burns. What hangs the In order to check the pre-shipment pump I unscrew the silver lid in the trunk and then alternately remove the hoses there. Neither at ignition, has glowed, nor when starting came from one of the pipes diesel. Was this the correct test, the VFD sits under this lid? Further questions about the VFD should then possibly jmliff put. Gruss Saje

Hello, just wanted to expand my climate control part and started quite well. Radio shaft was already empty, so ashtrays out, screws loosed and then I wanted to press down the metal handle, and then was off work -((The handle is probably right out of its holder and of course brook long fiddling I had him out of the left side also and now I can scratch my back with it -(Sch….tt What can I do now, so that I can remove the aperture k ann ???? I can remove everything around it, but I wanted to do it after the control panel. Who had the same problem before ????

Hello guys, unfortunately the search did not bring me the desired results, so I open here a new thread: I want to adapt my caravan something to my HiFi needs, because the series quakers do their name honor all. I have already installed a radio – Kenwood KDC-M-907, now I would like to install another front system, but if possible without AMP. Does one of you have something to do with it? I have followed an auction at ebay once with a system of B OSE for the Omega – went away for almost 200 eurons, so I thought to myself, only net so expensive. I don’t want to put one of the cars together that drive through the city with open windows, and play the system for everyone, but I want to listen to louder music than the normal LS can handle it. Who has a tip for me ??

Hello guys, I would like to ask you a question. I run a sailing school in Bavaria (that’s why mine is also the segelomi) and need a station wagon. You have so many things to take with you to the lake. Also, the omi needs an AHK because it sometimes serves as a drawhorse. However, the trailer load keeps in limits, so around the 400 unbraked and 750 braked. Now my question: is it enough for the “small” diesel, or should I rather go back to “V6”? enziner. Where is the diesel in “actual” consumption and where the petroler, also than 2.2 L ?? Are there alternatives ?? I drive about 35,000 km a year, mostly in 5 to 20 km mode. Ask for as much information as possible. I think mine doesn’t make it that long. The friendly has murmured quite a bit during the last reperatures. Greetings from Franken

Hello dear ones, I play an Omega with the thought of putting me. My savings feeling tells me that I should take a 2.0 16V. I just don’t know if the 136hp and the 2l are not too weak for the mass car and man who is there. So rather a V6 or a MV6??!!!?? MV6 I think by consumption is damn expensive. But the fun would be worth it to me. Must the woman just eat less, which wanted to lose anyway! What worries me that the MV6 apparently I already know this from my old VW Passat VR6, which was also a dime grave. Therefore the thought would only be between a V6 or nem 16V. I also read that one should not take an Omega before 1998. However, since I don’t have enough cash to get one, I think it will be no more than 1996 or 1995. What can you tell me about it? How is the Omega 2.0-16V compared to the V6? What do you have to do? when buying? Should I perhaps invest the money better in two bikes? I’m just not quite sure if my gut feeling is really good and I should give it to him!?! HELFT ME!!!

ATU – crazy tires – need advice Hello! I’m new here and hope maybe someone can give me some advice. I was at ATU in Gera in June to change my timing belt (+ the free check for brakes and chassis). Then a staff member called me at home and told me that something was wrong with the track at the front. The track rod head at the front left has to be renewed. So what must be. After that there was a measurement protocol ..all iO.! Previously 0.36 after 0.0 6. Until that time I never had the problem of one-sided tire wear!! Last week I took off the summer tires, and got the shock completely. The left rear tire is completely flat in the outer third. The wire comes out already. What could have happened. I to ATU in Hagen (here I live). Again protocol, graciously at the expense of the house. This time back 0.45 (Lt Gera before -0.18 after 0.12). How can that be? In 5 months tire flat though reported Atu has offered me 30 percent on new tires. That’s a laugh. I have to buy 2 new tires. And I should also have the rear track bar changed. And the best thing is, it should be so rusty at the back to the right that they could only adjust it from 0.33 to 0.18 and not to max. 0.15. Only funny 5 months ago it was not rusty because they allegedly corrected the value from -0.27 to 0.09. I didn’t have an accident and I don’t take curbs with me either. I drove 7000 km in time. Who knows about it. What happened or didn’t happen at ATU??? Atu says the protocol from Gera was fine. Basta! What about my guarantee? How should I prove the ATU mess? The 2nd boss at ATU admitted it and said if he was boss I would have got 2 tires right away. But Big Boss feeds me at 30 percent. He says I’m supposed to write to the management, but he also means that it’s not very successful. So how can you explain that? The values despite surveying? Best regards Claudii

HI, had a driving accident yesterday. I was driven at the traffic light at the rear with approx. 20km/h. Thanks to my AHK, no damage can be seen from the outside. Does anyone have experience with such situations, whether damage hides or holds out a AHK so much?

hi, I have problems with the coolant level again. container is filled up until the mark is finished. during the trip, the k.-medium is sucked out of the container until the sensor detects too little k.-medium. if the container is opened when the engine is running, then I can safely refill natural water. if the motor is switched off and the tank is opened, then the water from the engine runs back into the tank. I last had this error with my urla Subsdrive 2005. At that time the heating lock valve had also said goodbye. back at home I was told that the cooler is clogged, so it is renewed. now it is time for a holiday again and the error occurs again. I visited two workshops today: 1. workshop: cause can be a clogged heater, or air in the system. also the cylinder head seal was checked and the system tested for tightness. to further limit the error I have another new one. the workshop was then still that the water level in the tank with increasing temperature of the water had to rise. I am supposed to observe the matter further. 2. workshop: heating cooler has nothing to do with the matter, I should fill water up just above the tank marking. it was said that with increasing temperature of the water level in the tank falls, since the water is compressed (What is bought? my question is now, it will be more or less. heating cooler yes or no. how can you check something. does someone have another idea? in etzold there is more. oh so, car has run an automatic climate control system, 8 years old, 120 000. unfortunately, I couldn’t test the new container cover yet, berlin is full of fans, it’s just a start. many thanks in advance.

Dear Omega specialists, here is my first problem description: from about 45 km/h onwards, there is a slight noise from the rear, which becomes louder at a higher speed and cannot be overheard at 80 km/h. It is even (no beating or cracking) and independent of giving and taking the gas and disappears only in right-hand curves. On the right wheel, there are significantly higher running noises to be heard on the right wheel. I don’t notice any game on both wheels. I don’t notice any game on the right wheel, and I don’t notice any game on the left wheel. I don’t notice any game on both wheels when you hit the rear wheels on the top or side of the car. And now my question to you: What’s broken? I don’t really believe that the right rear wheel bearing is defective, because the car only ran about 55,000 km. According to Mr. Korp in “Now I’m helping m ir selbst” hold the rear bearings about 150,000 km, which corresponds to my experience with x previous (cheap) cars. Mr. Etzold will also be this view, because he says almost nothing to the rear wheel bearing. For answers, references to other possible defects and tips for precise error detection I would be grateful to you, Kurt

Hi, after which the cause of my water loss was found, I would be interested to know how long the WaPu is taking part, I already get a new one delivered (manufacturer’s warranty), but I can hear such an unpleasant grind in the engine room, which gets louder every day. Can the WaPu take a few more kilometers, or rather not drive any more, I mean not a world trip, but you what is absolutely necessary.