Category: Opel Omega & Senator Forum

Hello together, Would you like to ask if you can get a used radio remote control from E*ay at the Omega B Facelift at Opel? And if so, what’s such a fun with Opel? I know that you can let VW learn used keys at VW…but I don’t know how it looks at Opel… That’s why I’m asking you thanks Greeting Ricky

In June 2018 the engine has to be replaced. Before the wedding many works were carried out which would have become more difficult later. Engine bearings li u. re. sealing ring at the crankshaft. Tooth belt. Keilriem. VDD. Zündk. Ignition lines. Water pump. Thermostat. Engine ventilation. All seals under the intake spider. Complete air distribution system cleaned. Oil filter and oil change. I believe that was all See the problem. I have the oil level exactly at the max mark of the measuring rod. Can drive forever long after all suddenly the oil can ATTENTION oil level appears in the BC. When I check with the oil level I am just 1 mm under max. 1 cup of oil up, everything ok. If I don’t take care of this signal immediately the distances to acknowledge become shorter and shorter. That bothers me!!!

Hello, I’m going to have to buy a new car soon and I’m thinking of buying an MV6 and then having it upgraded to LPG. My old car was an A4 2.5l tdi with 150 hp. With it I never needed more than 8l diesel on the motorway. It was also fast and economical. And the Diesel Omega is too undermotorized, consumes more than the Audi and is not so fast yet. Therefore, there is only the possibility with the MV6. Above all large, full equipment and HECKANTRIEB, which I don’t find in the Audi A4. Therefore, my questions, who has a converted MV6 and can tell me some things. 1. Costs of the conversion and which system 2. Consumption at full speed with over 200 on the highway 3. Size of the tank. Must come at least 650km far with a tank filling Hope some MV6 drivers with gas can help me further.

Moin I am desperately looking for an activation signal from the DWA. Background is the retrofitted engine remote start. If this would be turned on with activated DWA, the DWA would go off. I want to avoid this by pressing the power supply to the remote start module via relay by 2 times FB when activated DWA. Thus, you can only start the engine remotely with normal locking. I would hardly use the DWA anyway. However, I need a stable 12V or mass signal from the DWA control unit, which is only present with activated DWA. I studied the schematic up and down and tested all cables but there seems to be no analog signal. This is all encoded in the STG and the activation only goes via FB. The motor remote start also has the possibility to send an activation and deactivation signal after or before the remote start. This would have to be sent to the DWA STG around d The DWA STG has no inputs for such purposes since everything is controlled only by the FB. The only signal that is output is a pulsating 1.8V signal for the red LED in the interior. But from this pulsed signal I do not get 12V constant voltage. If I could get another signal with activated DWA which I could work with, would be very helpful. Does anyone have an idea? By the way: Not all contacts e.g. you have to make a contact manually even when retrofitting the heater, which disables the interior monitoring. So I can already imagine that there are empty contacts on the STG, which can deactivate it manually or activate it. But don’t find any technical information about the Kiekert module. These are so hidden, not intended circuits. Maybe someone knows more?

Hello, my last Omi has now accompanied me for a good 8 years, and now I will probably separate myself from it. The Tüv is in the house, and it does not get through so. Some repairs are necessary, among others brake blocks / discs, loses oil, exhaust from cat, headlights milky, and still a few smaller things. Cost estimates vary between 1500 and 210€. The vehicle still has a value of about 1000€. For my Omi I would get unrepaired, and Tuv due still 400€ from the workshop. It is also from I have decided to buy another, but also older used ones. Since I am not a friend of installments and want to pay cash, it is only good 3000€ which I can invest and will. I have to say this, if I am looking for something similar of spaciousness, and this entry into a living room, then only the E class, which I do not want, would be in question and for the amount also not get. Would like from you I also need a good space in the car ( 198 cm / 130kg), which already limits it. Play with the thought maybe a Meriva. My search criteria! Up to 11 years old. Up to 100 HP cheap in consumption / insurance / repairs. Climate drive no matter. Entry increases, like Meriva (have both back broken) So direction Van / Mini Van Which vehicles can get what cars are recommended. Do you recommend it?

Hello everyone! I have a funny probl. again with my Omega B 2,5l V6. I noticed that my steering lever played again, although I changed it only about 1 year ago. So new worried, and when I wanted to install it I noticed that was only the screw looser and he had too much game because of it. So screw again and tested…..everything ok again, kei game more ! So once a round drove and then looked again and see there the screw e was relaxed again although I had put on the really solid. What can this lie on ??? Can it be that I forgot a distance disc at that time, which I can not imagine. Does anyone know if there is only a disk under the mother or another one under the disk ??? Or should I just take a new mother ?? Hope one knows what. Greeting Thomas

Hello can one tell me what exact designation the SMD`s have on the board from the display of the selector lever position switch. would like to convert to red and therefore need the exact designation of the parts. thank you!

HI! Since it is now so cold and snowing , my whole Omega B 2000 runs completely on inside . All windows run within 1 minute completely on also the rear and the rear window . Wnn the climate rabeit it takes so about 5-10 km drive until you see again reasonably wa . In addition it seems to me as if at the front of the WSS almost no air comes out at the largest fan stage . Fan runs perfectly . Pollen filter is also new and also not clogged with leaves or something . Can the Opel dealer read out?? Or what else can that be?? In previous years the problem was never there. Greetings

My generator seems to have problems. I bought a new battery the other day, the old one was definitely due. So far everything was quite normal. After starting onboard voltage to 13,9-14V. Then it goes down after a time to 13,4V and then settles in between 13,3-13,7V. I have a voltage indicator where the cigarette lighter is normal. But the last days where it gets dark now, I naturally have dipped light in the evening. Then I have a voltage indicator where the cigarette lighter is normal. The on-board voltage goes down after a while to approx. 12,9-13,1V. Virhin when I drove home I was surprised when the on-board voltage was only at “12,3V” (light on and radiator fans were running straight). Just before home switched down to only floor light and the voltage slowly went back to scarce 13V. Battery I still charge at all times, when I am at my garage, today also. Charging voltage is 14,5 Volt and is a very good charger with various So the battery is always full when I drive home. I almost forgot, I re-made the controller about 2 years ago, as well as the control system on the generator. A lot of text became, but I didn’t want to keep all the information from you. What to do, try new controller again, or what to do, that the onboard voltage goes under load into the knees. E.g. even if I run blower to higher level. So far it was from it always at least around the 13V, today for a short time only 12,3V (cooler fans ran but also in the moment, as well as dipped light) The most useful thing is, if I had my multimeter and oscilloscope on tomorrow, current pliers (up to 200A) I would also have to measure. Edit: No bug, which the new battery therefore also passes over the Jordan, but I charge also with charger for precautionary reasons I would not have a bug to read the whole text

Hi guys! I’m new here in the forum and I’ve already read a lot about the Krummer problem of the Omega B. But it’s even more complicated with me! It came to me 5 months ago. The old (first) Krummer was found to be “tore” (135tkm), trouser tube leaks. Both were exchanged in a free workshop. Since then I’ve already had the 4th (!) Krummer in my Omega. The first one lasted at least a few weeks (approx. 3000Km), the next one then almost only days. It was always the case that the box sounded bad at cold start, and then there was nothing more to be heard in the warm state. However, according to the workshop, the cracker was always warped. At the last change before 2500Km it was said that some threads were being drilled up now. Well, I thought, the main thing is to help. And now I hear in the cold start in the morning. d again the valves chirping! Can one tell me if the boys have systematically screwed up the cylinder head or if there is another explanation for it. Does the exchange of the trouser tube at the same time perhaps influence (voltages?). Since I am very attached to my station wagon, it bothers me that this problem is not to be managed. However, it doesn’t get any better. Whether the Opel workshop can still help, or if then another head has to be on it??? I don’t have any More plan, please say your opinion.