Category: Opel Omega & Senator Forum

Hello dear community, I was now at the TÜV, which still a few defects come to me was aware, however I wanted to have an opinion about the detected defects in the red bordered area on the picture. I have already seen that there are repererature sets for the crossbars for the crossbars, but I would also need special tools or a self-made tool. Now I also have the possibility to get both crossbars completely new for a very good price. The crossbars are from the company “Monroe”, I mean to have read that which are probably relatively usable, jmd. Experiences? LG

hello to everyone, maybe someone has an idea: Omega B, BJ 95, 2,0 16 V 136hp, 176000 KM down, timing belts changed, with water pump, (15.01.16) Thermostat changed a year ago for a few days I have used significantly higher engine temperatures than before, otherwise always around the 93 degrees, now mostly around the 95-99 degrees, possibly just above it, fan runs then also, temperature goes down to approx.96/97 degrees, I set the Omega after driving at approx.99 degrees, ignition everything off, and then sets off the ignition again, shows only 1 second later instead of the just 99 degrees only 95 degrees, or during the ride I come to 98/99 Grand, roll at junction, and then normally continue, also there the temperature goes down immediately to approx.95 degrees and then during the ride again high so can be the temperature sensor, or possibly again the thermostat (1 year old) Thanks for your help,

Hello, my Omega (Y25TD) Bj.03 does not have the fault code in it any charging pressure! I bought it recently with a front damage at the front right (LK had a hole, it didn’t pull at all). I already replaced the LLK with a used one. He still has the error code. On the turbocharger were vacuum hoses porous and one not connected. (Hope I connected it correctly to a can on the turbo) Have the hoses already renewed, but it still does not pull, only from so 3500U/min! The vacuum system has between 0.7 and 0.9 bar underpressure measured at different points in the stand gas. Now my questions: 1. How large is the charge pressure (in bar) of the turbo in the stand gas/how high does it have to go? 2. Where is the charge pressure sensor? 3. I wanted to bring the hoses from the turbo to the suction bridge easily under pressure with a compressor and check for leaks (with stop). Is my action so right? 4.When underpressure is there, the pressure range of the turbo dense and the Hump pressure can be all the turbo-stop sensor, then thanks for your turbo-stop sensor?

Moin, on time for winter, failed the heating of my automatic air conditioning system (Limo, FL, 2,2) this afternoon. Although the blower is running, the air is cold. I have already read a little bit, and also try to reset the part with the Auto-Stop key combination without success. You can hear what is moving in the system, but even after that the air is cold, although the Motortemp. display indicates 90°. Now you read what of possibly defective operating parts for expensive money, additional pumps that can fail the service, or heat exchangers that can be blocked and whose exchange is probably a pig’s work. This sounds either expensive or expensive, so I would like to ask you for advice on how to limit the problem from cheap/fast to expensive/prolonged best. Does the thermostat also come into question or even a simple fuse? Can it be connected with this advice that this afternoon also the workshop warning light has lit up briefly? At the same time I also noticed that the mirror adjustment motors run continuously, but for that I have found the problem with regard to the mirror.

Hello dear people, I know that a lot has already been written about this topic but it has to address it again, because I have now encountered the same problem that the airbag lamp constantly lights up after switching on the ignition.was there also with the friendly one and he immediately! with the diagnostic device.he had determined that the onboard voltage is probably too low in general.Instead of 14,4 volts only 13,5 volt.er also said that it could lie on the battery.there were only voltage errors that the diagnostic grave indicated and that were, according to his opinion, far too many.my omega b runs perfectly.whether in the stand as well as at full load.nun but my question, can you not switch off the airbag lamp in the amaturboard?is there a security that I can make out at the moment that the no longer lights?can find no one. vehicle data: opel omega b 2,5 V6 building year: 1998 gruß mutzzespitz

Hello, sometimes the following problem occurs with my OMI. After the acceleration, so the gas dries or stutters short for just under 1 – 2 seconds, as if you had short ignition oscillations with the petrol engine. Air mass meters can not be, is clean and exchanged. Tech 2 says nothing. What can it be? Thank you willmann1

Hi guys, I’ve had a lot of fun in the CarPC forum lately and I’ve let you sit here a little bit, not mean bad :-)))! Now I’ve brought with me new problems that I can’t get solved on my own. As you can see on the subject I will (I am) make my PC into my car. The planning is through and yesterday I started to pull cable. We had to find out that the Oemga under the disguise offers quite little space after all … Well, now it’s the case that the planned installation space of the power supply (in the regiom around the glove compartment, there was the original hands-free compartment in before, as behind the hand-held compartment squashed, because I need in the wide (9 cm, 7.5 cm) a pair of centimeters) does not offer enough space :-(. The PC should be in the glove compartment (short cable paths etc.). Do you have any idea where I can still accommodate such a power supply box ? Dimensions are : W x H x D : 14x15x9 plus something for the cables. MfG Marc

unfortunately I still have problems with the standing heater at my omega 2,2 dti. I would be interested in which settings you prefer at the climate control unit when you program the standing heater. to “car” and set the temperature to “hi”? or other settings? thx for the answers. mfg, knockando

Yesterday I brought my 2.2l Omega BJ 2000 to the FOH. Oil change / inspection was ready. Furthermore he made for about 14 days in the first seconds after the start clappy sounds. My guess valve play. The FOH revealed to me quite quickly that besides oil also the timing belt must be changed. Running power 54000 , age BJ 5/2000. Timing belts must be changed all 60000, but what is dramatic is the age of the This morning the FOH calls and explains that the valves are not the reason for the noises, but a defective cracker. I almost collapsed. After I had bought the 2.5 V6 in 1999 and after a year the cracker was broken, I had decided not to drive the Opel again because of other quality problems and the behavior of my FOH s. Last year the price / performance ratio has changed. And now I’m told that the cracker is broken again. Costs approx. 190 Euro for crackers, gasket and standing bolts and approx. 250 Euro for installation. In addition, the timing belts for approx. 300 Euro and the large inspection for 320 Euro….. should now print out 1000 Euro. By the way, I bought the car with one year warranty. Crackers do not fall into this guarantee. I really recg and I just wanted to get rid of that. Until because…. oho

Hello together I found 2 cars that I would like very much. 1 x Omega A I-500 1 x Omega Bi-turbo Are the prices of the cars ok? or too expensive? Was there an Omega I-500? What would you have to pay attention to with these cars? Vulnerabilities etc. Have attached the ad. Otherwise you can also view them on http:://www.autoscout24.ch Gruss Stefan