Category: Opel Omega & Senator Forum

First hello to everyone, I bought me a ffb universal to deal with the stress with the originals. was also instruction and all in doing so only I have problems with the cable colors. and indeed I read here also iwo that the cables for “on” and “on” should be brown-white and brown-red but in the instruction is indicated with “on” brown-black. the problem is, on the stg I have 2 plugs and on each these cable colors are available (on the wide plug even several times). Which of the two plugs do I find the cables for the on and to control and which colors or pins are these? have a 96er omi b limo. but please explain for “dummies” because with schematics I can handle so much net. oh yes + and mass I have taken from the small plug, is that ok or should I take directly from batt? is on the plug even perennial juice on it? should already the original ffb funzt yes also (sometimes). the zv is mass controlled, right? so ke ine pneumatic or something? hope someone can help me with the search I always only stumbled on schematics and I can’t get any further.

Moin first of all, since my 2l 16V has recently also gone out for the first time when kicking the clutch, I probably have to tackle the junk with the hoses, hollow screw and idle controller cleaning soon. I already got a idle controller in reserve for safety. Looks quite new, but that has nothing to say. Supposedly only been installed for a short time, well ́mal look. I wanted to clean the reserve controller now, but am not as sure as you can The one with the plug for the E-connection, and the other with the two holes on which the seal comes. My question is now, you can simply separate the two parts for cleaning, or it disintegrates into a thousand parts. I once had this with a door lock cylinder, I cursed. Pulled out without a key in it. That’s why I better ask before, hi hi. Or s What do I have to bear in mind? Is there still a seal between the components? Are they additionally glued together? Can the part with the holes be placed in an ultrasonic bath without dismantling the part with the e-connection? Of course only in such a way that the e-part is not wetted, is already clear. Thank you for tips and tricks. Greetings Omimatze

Hello, I thought yesterday that I would do something good for my little Ommi and drive him through the wash road (don’t drive through it… for 10 years). When I come home, the decorative strip in the back left side of the bike track is pushed backwards. I called them immediately and should show the car. It didn’t come without anything, only time and useless 30km and an Ommi, which was dirty again, because with us the farmers are currently in the field and the roads look like that. . The Lord of CleanCar had meant that the trim was already not properly fixed, because otherwise it would not have happened and therefore he does not see one for the damage to be done. what should one do there??? On the right side the lineist is also not firmly attached to the coach, but stands on the wheel run also about 3mm. There must then be these stupid dry cloths behind hooked… Well…now I have the damage and will not be through this road anymore. BUT…where can I get a finish line like this again??? At the FOH it will cost a lot of money. Vllt. has someone a tip for me…at motoso there is unfortunately no…at the moment. It is the finish line at the rear left, which is fixed over the bumper to the wheel. Tanja

A friendly “hello” to all Omi drivers I have a question: I wanted my Omi 2.5l 170Ps Bauj.97 to be converted to car gas. It is liquefied gas and no natural gas. I ended up for liquefied gas, as the tank (66l) fits into the reseveradmulde and does not take any space away. Does anyone have experience with it and can tell me how high the gas consumption is with it? Does the engine run just as well as with petrol?

Hello Leutze. Since I haven’t been in the forum for a few days, (because shoulder hurts hurts is bothering me and doesn’t let sleep), there’s a question about a problem in my omi. Problem is this: The actuator for the seat height adjustment tries to work when you press on the switch, but doesn’t do it, unless it clacks. No matter if up or down. I thought that the flanged gearbox has an internal damage. I don’t know if any There is a foreign body inside or if something is broken off. Seeing in is not because the shitty thing is riveted. Who knows advice? Who knows the error? How can I help? Do I need a new actuator with gearbox (although the engine is funtioned) now? I am grateful for any suggestion or solution that removes the error. Have a normal seat with leather, seat heating and side airbag. The only thing that can be adjusted is the seat height adjustment. Blem around the driver’s seat. Still have fun screwing at your omi. Greetings Marco. PS.:Another question:How do you get your pictures into the forum???Opel OMEGA Caravan is the noble truck among the Kombi’s. ! !

And another construction site… I’m too much under this car! The Diff has quite massive oil loss. Mainly from the left RWDR. The axle should still be the original ones. Before my part Höker moans again: Were there different variants? 2.0 16V Bj.95 switches. With some luck, the Diff is also responsible for the rough run under load. I’ve been looking for its cause for some time. Diff would also be a measure. And I still want to swap the RWDRs.

Hello, Subject Opel Omega B Caravan OMVL LPG 2,0 16V Bj 1998 In the morning everything is in the morning after about 10min the steering starts to crunch so as soon as it gets warm, the same as if rubber rubs together so it sounds like already with the smallest steering movement oil in i.o flat belts has been replaced Coupling rods also i.o What could it be his steering gear?

Moin, have a problem with my Ommi (permanent construction site but it will …), I get the hose (which leads over the connection tube to the heat exchanger) no longer securely attached. The ring, e.g. the white one can not move forward even after several persuasion attempts to be secured. Tube is fully pushed forward and one also hears a ‘click’ so that it is assumed that the cut-out at the patent closure has also slipped over the bulge on the tube. In any case, g can no longer be moved to the rear even after pressing down the rest … Questions are now: Why does the ring of the hose not move in removed / withdrawn condition, is the (green) transport securing possibly necessary for the installation? Or defective hose coupling…, too little bread .. 🙂 ? Furthermore, I have the question whether there is still an O-ring inside the connection? At any rate, there was nothing to be seen at a later hour. -Catalogue is also nothing … heat exchanger connector

Hey leutz! Yesterday I changed my monroe dampers in front for axle dampers since the re. monroe meant he had to oil after 20tkm and 2 years (this was in the season)! Since the right damper was already broken after 4 weeks and after a long time the dampers were credited (was on the part dealer that had stored them in the corner at that time) and from monroe after a further complaint no one had come to meet this company for me died! So now we have changed with a buddy the dinger and as everything was done we found 2 larger washers which belong to the upper heel cover and therefore tomorrow the feather legs must go out again tomorrow and the discs in so that the dom camps do not break! I just saw at Kurt his album how it was supposed to be assembled! Thanks Kurt! Well my sentence for previous lazyness is punished by having to pay another anachsvermessung! So and since the granny tomorrow has to be on the stage again I want g Is a 2.0 16 ez 12.97 and switch! Otherwise thank you for your answer and ALL A GOOD RUTSCH AND A BELIEVE-FREE YEAR!!!!

Hello all, I have the org. level dampers in the back of my Commodore. The car is a bit high at the back (675mm wheelhouse edge to the ground). So I put myself under today and solved the shock absorbers below… and look, it came down directly good 15mm. The dampers were completely ventilated. 30mm he should come down at the back already. Now he looks a little after a gag… Now I wonder if this pretension is normal, a defect or if you can adjust it k The exchange for normal dampers is not an option, I often drive with good load.