Category: Opel Omega & Senator Forum

Hello, currently in a purchase consultation the question about crawling was asked partly already. But could not be completely clarified, because basically not the main topic…. The following situation: 1. When I start, the car has a very high slip (normal start approx. 2000 rpm – constant at the beginning) during very easy acceleration. Do you have the same effect? Had the oil + filter made 2 years ago, then it seemed SUBJEKTIV better for a short time. 2. in stand driving Only in the cold condition, in contrast to other cars driven by me. Car – speed LL Omega at approx. 480 rpm. (Corsa, Golf, MB E, Toyota, Misubishi… etc. – ok, maybe compare apples with pears – but all automats, also the start with significantly lower slip) 3. How does a loose brake strap noticeable? Have (for a very long time ) the following phenomenon: traffic jam BAB/back traffic light: slow start up (with very light gas foot), switches in 2 . Gang – must then suddenly of the gas -> there is always a small “stroke” in the gearbox. Can this be connected with a loose/unset brake band? What do you think? Greeting Christian

Moin dear colleagues, would have asked twice again, after I have eliminated the technical flaws on my omi, and there were some, here a short pull out, large inspection made, Stabi and wheel bearing in front new, blocks in front new, brake in rear Kpl new, rear axle bushings, center pot and finally the valve cover seal. Technically, now everything is top. Now to the actual question, had crappy radio reception, thought that was due to the eaten (original) antenna. now at Ebay one of Jom fetched, which is mounted and see still shitty , until no reception at all. Grrrrr!!! Has the radio shot?! is the Delco Cd radio. Would be really grateful for the advice!! Because my second question, since now technically everything is top with the car, I search , or would need help with the Opel typical rust spots, at the rear the wheel runs start flowering, at the bottom at the driver door and at the top where the window disappears in the door. / or had it done. someone has a tip, or knows what it costs………………?? Thank you and greeting Alex

Hello guys, I have to change my hydro-punch, as you are getting louder and louder, will also do the same valve shaft seal and timing belts with unguided rollers and water pump. Now I have looked around and get a price range for the hydro-punch from 8,75€ to 34,06€ per pc. Now a question how can I get out which hydro-pushes to not change all. Here have times the for 8,75€Hydro-pushs at ebay and here the one from Autoteile-Guenstiger.de for 34,06€. m then it must be for approx. 30,00€ or do not go also for approx. 9.0€ With Auto-Tip the Hydroß costs 25,90€ per Stk.

Meal @ all, would need the help of the MV6 drivers among you. In the course of my tachometer conversion on LCD I am not 100% sure if my KM/H display works properly. Would therefore ask you to see how fast you drive e.g. in the fourth gear at 2000 u/pm. Or at 3000upm in the fifth gear, or at 2000u/pm in the third, etc. Thank you and sunny greetings from Wuppertal MFG OLLI

Hello to all who have installed the above mentioned phone factory side. I bought the car Opel Omega 3.0 V6 Built. 2000 about 1 month ago and this simply owns a full equipment including this Nokia telematics unit. Now I simply connected the part in my glove compartment because there are already the matching cables from the factory. Now card pure PIN entered and the thing funks. But when I turn off the car and restart the stupid part constantly asks me for a SIM card even though this is already there. So put the card out several times and bangs PIN input. But if I set the radio pin storage to max. 1 hour then I can easily turn off the car within this time window and do it without this stupid query coming. Only after this time the request comes to insert the SIM. I opened the telematics unit to see if there may be contact problems. But I don’t see much. Can someone help me with this ode r may say how I can use this thing without constantly pushing out like a crazy card and in it the pin query is started. This error occurs even if no PIN query is set. So it’s up to the detection. Thank you very much.

Hello now have a new Omega. Is a 99er station wagon with quite good equipment. The previous owner said that the car has a head seal damage, according to his workshop. The car has about 150 tkm. on the hump. Is in my eyes also so, I gliaube not that with the car at the clock was fastened. The engine was easy to disassemble and I also don’t believe that there was already one on it. The valve covers were leaking and the spark plugs were in an oil bath. All the screws on the car were unscratched, look as if they have never been solved. Can this be done that the seals are still of work? Look really old… now to my questions, have run the engine at least an hour, run well and I have not been able to repair any loss of cooling water. In the oil there is no water and not any oil in the water. I only disassembled the engine because of the VDD. Pictures next to the oil cooler as vo the ZKD is I have discovered a white cracked. Lime? Water loss? Are the ZKD down? The engine is really clean in the interior, the previous owner does not seem to have saved on the oil…. From the outside the engine is oiled everywhere, I think because of the VDD. There are no deposits to be seen in the cracker. What do you say about it? Decompose the engine and Neat the ZKD or not? Tips? What should I not pay attention to? Dnake for the tops, The rest say the pictures! So have With the X20XEV I am a newcomer! I used to scold About the X20XEV that you can get a lot of things only hard! I take everything back! Have already gained some easy experiences. With the X25XE I will probably be able to get more excited about VIEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEL, that everything is so installed! THERE IS NO RAN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! GHRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR

Hello, I bought a used, original. Oris AHK with E-set! Now I installed it yesterday but problems with the E-set! There are three cable strands on the can, two are clear, are the ones for the rear lights! One has two angular plugs where there are already plugs with bent cables on it. One has test relay on it! On this are still two wires with cable shoes?????? the third has an angular three-pin plug on it. Think of that is for permanent supply! (are 2.5 mm2 ) Can someone give me a tip for what all this is or possibly has an installation instruction! I searched everything but unfortunately found nothing! Thank you already in advance

hello, how to find the easiest the UT with this vehicle. Valve lid etc. already dismantled everything. OT is easy to find, but I need to set the ESP the UT. maybe someone has useful ideas !?? P.s. I don’t have a lift….must seal so under the car 🙂 gruss woody

Hello dear people! First of all, I’m new here, but I’m excited about the way in which help is being given here. If I should do something wrong, you can tell me. So again, I have an Opel Omega A, Motorization 2.0 L 116 PS gasoline, year 1993. However, if I have more time, of course, in the signature. So, my problem is this: If the temperature is quite low outside, or if it rains, my windbreaker strikes. I have to open all the windows and turn the cooling open. It’s going to be uncomfortable at these temperatures. A friend of mine (he’s a mechanic) thinks the heat cooler would be broken or it would have a leak because it smells like coolant. What do you think about it? Are there any other options? If no, where is the heat cooler with this omega, how is it removed, what does it cost? Thanks for the answers. lg

Hello together, I have now closed my Omega MV6 to expand my heart and to overtake it. This topic was also plentifully chewed through and I have already read through all the posts and made my notes about it. I have now made a plan for how I want to deal with the whole and which parts I want to exchange. I would ask you to look at it and possibly add things or to give your opinion. What do I want to do about everything: – Cylinder head gasket (for this I get a complete set at the part dealer) – Tooth, and V-belts (also again from the TD set) – Thermostat – Wapu – spark plugs and ignition cables – Oil tub gasket – Oil change (with all that is included) – Valve shaft gasket – Piston rings – Crammers plan grinding – Tap sensor (exchange or clean, depending on) – Gear oil change and protect all plug connections clean and with silicone grease – KWG ventilation clean new seal and blow by collector As a result, I didn’t have to lift the engine out, but to build it down piece by piece, so I continued to work from the VDD until the naked block hangs in it and only then get the last cram out. If all the parts are out then I wanted to put the engine back together and seal it off and then use it again with a crane. Would that be clever? Would you do that too? Never removed such a big engine and screwed it back in before. mpel pick up the car is ́ti. So now your opinions or additions LG Lutz