Category: Opel Omega & Senator Forum

Hello together, my Omega B 2.0 16v BJ 98 licks with 138,000km and that’s not a little. I had the little one on my pit and looked at it once, so the oil pans are long gone dense.

Hello, maybe you have a tip for me. my Omega B 2.5 doesn’t start at once (starter spins and spraying also OK), then I called the ADAC and then he meant after reading the ECU that the speed sensor is defective, then the Omega was dragged to the workshop and that means now that the ECU is defective. Is there any way to get out what is really defective? I don’t have that much money for this or that a I would like to ask you to let me know which information may be needed to help me. Yes, I’ve already been looking for solutions here in the forum, but unfortunately I haven’t found the right one. nice Easter days

Hello, offer here and of course also in the marketplace a Nissan Primera Traveller Comfort (HSN/TSN 3648/349) for exchange! Become my offer for the first time only link with it not the next moderator kicks my contribution. This is a serious offer so please no fun news. The Nissan is a bargain (Mobile has worse for over 4000 € in it!) but it is just not Opel and the WILL I !!! 119tkm{< 114 PS {

Would like to get rid of this for a short time, and that is that I had to make the brake discs and a track rod head RIGHTS in the course of the TÜV repairs. I made the same both steering rods new. I thought that the track can be adjusted with the help of the brake discs and wheel boxes with an inch stick already millimeters exactly as it was before. I was disillusioned, when after embarrassingly penable millimeter work the steering wheel was still very light (at the edge about 2-3 cm) to the right, the car a If you looked from the outside and had the steering wheel straight, the left front wheel was straight (to measure of the eye), but the left wheel looked a bit pure. Basically right, the Omega needs a lead. But of course both wheels have to look in (excessively said) when the steering wheel is straight. Then I turned the right wheel very slightly (perhaps only 2-3 mm) to the outside (but still so that it looks in) and the left wheel also inward (it was just standing) and there After a table (http://www.limora.com/pdf/488544.pdf ) I knew that they must be up to 7 mm (i.e. about 1.000°) in front of the wheels further than behind the wheels. Since I could not measure this, I simply estimated. 7 mm , well you don’t see that, or hardly, so I set them up so that you can hardly see it. And this morning he was at the axle survey (because I did not see a good thing about it). it had a feeling, even though wheels on minimum eye measurement lead and steering wheel quite straight!) and there had to be almost nothing !!. Only the right front wheel was standing at 0,20° , the tolerance is 0.00°-0,10° and were set 0.05°. Everything by eye Now I am satisfied and by 60 Euro poorer If someone wants to see the protocol (maybe because of the values, I like to scan it). I also found already not quite correct values on the Internet, so stood the Tolerance to 0.05-0.15 ° , this applies to the Omega only for the rear axle track. 0.00-0,10° applies for the front. That means for the overall track at the front 0.00-0,20°. But that’s actually the same.

Well, it’s about an Omega A 2.0 with 85kw, year 90 One day (without notice) he didn’t jump any more. Engine turns, but doesn’t even start to light (no single twitch). The following points have been checked so far: – Candles: Are wet (although gasoline), normal candle image – all candles have sparks – mists fuel mixture (smells at least like this and looks like that) to the candle holes – don’t jump on with start pilot (no single twitch) – Timing belt normal and intact – Gasoline sufficient in tank – Air filter new – Safety fuel injection intact No immobiliser available. Compression not yet tested, but until the last stop of the engine it has run impeccable and unobtrusive. Does anyone know a typical omega patch in this direction or has an idea? -Does the petrol pump normally run briefly when the ignition is switched on at the omega to build up pressure or only when the engine is rotating? Thank you in advance! Your Stevie

Hello people, I have a small problem, with my sliding roof. It is an electric glass sliding roof and I have an Omega B caravan of 95. To my problem, when I put the vestell wheel in the roof sky, on closing, the roof remains a bit open, only if I place a step further, (so actually already lifting) it goes completely too. This is actually no problem. But always when I use the comfort locking function via the driver lock, to the sliding door It remains a bit open to close. Now my question, you can set the sliding roof, that it is closed on the switch position, also completely closed. If so, how can it be done? Hope you can help me there. Sincerely fabians55

Hello together, for some time I have already had problems with my omega b 2.0 16V Built. 94. At first the engine only went off once in a while. for two weeks, however, it always goes when the engine is warm and you express the coupling. I was advised to change spark plugs and air filters. what I did then. I found out that the last shorts are fully in the oil. so here in the forum a little read out. some thought it was the valve cover seal. ic h so let’s go to the FOH and buy a new seal etc and make it clean. then I was advised to clean the empty runner etc. this is done on Monday. let’s see if then the death is eliminated with it. my biggest problem is and where I hope that here is some advice, my omega gives out the exhaust blue mist signals from the very finest. do you have maybe a tip what this could be and if it is still worth having this done. am for every help and advice really there nkbar since I want to give up my omega only very reluctantly. THX already once to all! Ulf

Hi Omi ́s, There are already several contributions about Fremdenavi ́s, but that here, there should be no actual, theoretical, at all. But look for yourself.

Hello everyone, have the following problem: At the rear axle of my omis sounds are audible and that is: – At the straight run and at left curves sounds are strongly audible. – At right curves nothing is audible – In the decoupled state ( idling) the noises are quiet question, do I have a problem with the wheel bearing, the drive shaft or the differential? Thanks Greeting Didä

Hello, Juniors Y22XE does not have any oil pressure after the oil change when starting. Only after a speed increase to approx. 2.500 1/min for a few seconds the pressure increases and the lamp goes off. At the immediate new start, the lamp goes off immediately after the start. Filled oil LM 10W40 – oil is enough inside. After reading the thread No oil pressure with cold engine I did not really come to a solution, because of the TE no feedback is available (or I have In any case, I will change the oil pressure switch prophylactically. I will also renew the filter, whereby it is illogical for me that the problem lies here – because what is pumped into it also comes out again – but it is the only part that was dipped during the oil change and before that everything was in order. As the last thing I must then remove the oil pressure control valve. Is there perhaps any other tips that I have not found? LG robert