Category: Opel Omega & Senator Forum

Hello, would like to hear your opinion about these two offers! So far I had an Omega B year 1995 with 136 Ps, and was always satisfied with the car. Last week I stood at a traffic light behind a Zafira, from behind is one unbraked in my car, and still pushed me into the Zafira! The result “economic total damage” repair costs 6000 €! But now absolutely must be an Omega again. My thinking is that for little money you still have a lot of Au to get. My limit is 3000 €! And I think that there is already something good, possibly. Facelift. Now I have very little idea of cars, and in the whole circle of acquaintances it does not look better. So it is important for me that the vehicle has as fresh as possible Tüv, and checkbook is well maintained. I have now picked two out of the net, which also sit in my vicinity. A 2,2 16v, and a 2,5 16v. Which machine is more recommended? How does it look for example at Reparationko In the case of 2.5 l, they are much higher than the 2.2 l? What does it make of HF/TK/VK about insurance, compared to the old 2.0 l of me. Here are both links! Hope for your response!http://www.autoscout24.de/Details.aspx?id=209142715http://suchen.mobile.de/…/161657611.html?…

———————– [Addendum FZ Data] Opel Omega B 2.2l 16V 144PS Kombi Facelift (MJ2001) ————————– Moin together, after having been driving with a “P0130-control circuit error” for a few weeks now, we have installed a new probe today. Only the error is not gone. The OBD-2 shows 0.41V on the probe and no more. There is no typical pendulum of the voltage between 0.8 and 0.1V. With the multimeter, I can measure on the line between the two A the shielded measuring line on the probe plug does not see a 0,4V. The measuring line has 2 wires: black and grey. I measure black against mass, so I see 0,41V fair I gray against mass: 0V fair I gray against black: 0V I tested the line between MSTG plug and probe plug for passage. This is fine. Question 1: Has someone had such a mistake before and has a solution ready? Question 2: I try to locate the company Hitzing and Paetzhold, sheite but both on the phone and on the web. Does anyone know what’s going on? The company repairs engine control units and has already repaired our old Sinec from the 1999 Omega. Greetings and thanks Carsten

For the first time in my life an Opel.Omeba b, 3.0 V6, 211 ps 96er, 217 000 down, TÜV up to 10/2021, no rust. rear drive, 13L on 100 km 😉 I’m surprised! Really a hammer car! Interior TOP! You sit like in your own living room. Air conditioning, chassis like on clouds and the automatic switches very sporty if you want. Wanted to register it only in late autumn. But it drives so well that I want to drive now. Now to the problem: The private previous owner had told me about “small problems” with the thermostat and cooling water. But not that it runs out. I also did not go further, because well… a gift Gaul…. Which was probably a mistake afterwards. After the night it was wet under the car. After a short drive it dripped heavily under the car. See pictures. Is it the cooling water or the cooler? Eat.

Hello community. My Ommega has me fully .. Clicked out .. . At the beginning of the last week when driving without rushing here on the city highway the temperature went up .. 100 degrees .. In the following also the account light. Man o man. What do ??? .-.- I have to say here however that I had already some time, water loss. This water loss was made out of the upper quick coupling hose that leads to the interior. This should now be made soon by my .. screwdriver .. n. .-.- Because of this thing …. I always had water to refill. It also helped me here. So fill up quickly to home about 2 km. .-.- Here arrived with heart palpitations. Let cool off …………. .- Then eyes open and everything can be examined. .- What actually can not be, but now ….. The quick coupling was from the upper …. metal tube …. Almost down !! Holla the forest FEE .-.- Here are read and read in the posts. New O-R are used. .-.- Get out of the old defective and strongly negated O-ring. This resisted something. Was probably also .. bissel fixed glued / burned … -.- picture is here from the appendix. Also the new O-ring. Data from the O-ring also ordered. .-.- O-ring. Size was —-> 15 x 3.5 mm NBR 70. .-.-.-.- Now I need the help or better the description as I get the NEW O-RING in the quick coupling and here in the intended groove / groove. .-.- Ha be also read in a piece, …. have managed, the O-ring is inside. Just say nice, it is not easy. .-.- I now ask here in all form, to get a description of how I can persuade this O-ring to fit and to be brought into dierse Rille / Nut. .-.-. I spent here for about 2 hours this afternoon here. The O-ring is not willing to be brought there with the best effort. .-.-.- I am absolutely at the end. Need tips. How to go should/must. Ask here for good advice. Best step by step. .– Still a nice evening.

Hello together, I am looking for a decent km eater. I always liked the Omega and a bigger limo with a 4 cylinder is already quite good as a base. I am currently looking for an Omega B from BJ 2001 2.2L 16v with a little km ́s and unbasked. Well-kept general condition. Nix verhurtes. It is not so easy but feasible I think. A conversion to LPG will follow. That definitely. Bish I have read myself in matters of Omega. Rust problems are known to me. Parts price e are quite cheap. From 2.2L 16V you also rarely hear something bad. Apart from the high consumption but thanks to LPG I don’t care. The car should accompany me max 2 years. So tüv new 2 years drive, then tuv new and sale Targeted km running power 40000-50000km a year. I think the Omega is robust and should be perfect as a km eater. Automatic would be of advantage but does not have to. How high does the motor turn with a switch transmission at 90km/h , 120km/h ,150km/h? That would be good for me. very important because I drive 90% highway greetings Momo

I would like to know how the fuel consumption indicated in the on-board computer is measured. With my Omega B EZ 29.04.94 an average consumption of 6.8 l/100 km is indicated. After the last refuelling a range of 1.256 km was offered to me. The truth is that the car consumes 8.6 l/100 km when I drive more highways and even if there is more city traffic it consumes about one litre more per 100 km. Now I always thought that the algorithm 1994 vie But now the idea came to me that it could be that the consumption is only measured incorrectly. So if this happens by means of a sensor, it could also be somehow dirty or worn out, so that the wrong values are delivered. What do you think about it?

Since I definitely need help here, I open up my own topic. I try to get it over the stage until the 25th, so that he is ready to drive after the registration. I have already read myself a little bit already in the TIS2000. There is tens of times something of KM this and KM that has made me rather unsettled. Can someone tell me at the beginning what “affordable tools” I need to get out the wheel hub and the wheel bearing. Don’t look there yet, because of nem suitable I hope that it is not too expensive. Maybe someone else is willing to lend me his bike bearing tool for payment.

Hello dear community, yesterday a Malheur happened to me. Had something packed in the trunk yesterday and because I didn’t want to put the key in my pocket, I put it in the trunk at short notice. Then I locked the trunk, but the key was still in it. Had not unlocked the doors before. I then called the ADAC. But they couldn’t open it. He tried to open the car for over an hour, but had to give up. I have destroyed the rear door window myself to get to the key in the trunk. Now I will get a used window from the scrap. I have now 4 questions: -If the anti-theft protection is activated, you really have no way to open the car anymore? -What color schemes for windows are there at Opel? My car has a silver metallic paint finish. I mean, my windows have a bluish coloration. What I find on the Internet, however, is Is there a difference between a combi door and a limousine door ? -I also have electric window lifters at the back. Are there any differences between a disc for electric and mechanical window lifters ? Or is the disc identical ? Must be slightly rebuilt on the disk, possibly necessary brackets be mounted ?

Hello dear community of omi drivers. For a few weeks now I have had the problem that my VA when I drive over a small hoggel at a low speed, or even when there are just steering cracking sounds of itself, the sounds come from the right. Furthermore, after I have ignored the cracking probably long enough….. If I don’t turn my omi for 2 days always something to the right. Have read the FAQ and then asked the workshop of my trust to do so. According to the workshop and also my healthy half-knowledge since I was standing under the stage it is probably the triangular handlebars or. to the right both the bushings which slowly say goodbye. I now have to have both completely exchanged. Now my real question which spare parts provider would you recommend to me for this. In the bay there are a few offers that reach from up to Euro. But I also do not want to buy twice because lack of expertise also always a workshop with the T ausch is needed and I want to drive the fat one a little longer. Greetings Oli from HH

Hello, am looking for a conversion option from Euro1 to Euro2 (also higher) for my Omi A limousine with C20NE. This is Bj.87 and the ABEs I have found so far start only from 89. One an idea? Experiences?