Category: Opel Omega & Senator Forum

Moin moin, now I’m on again with a question. Yesterday evening my better half called out from the car and said that the instrument lighting was completely out. Neither Tacho nor DZM or MID, everything dark. The lighting of the ECC works perfectly however. There were no other control lights like battery or MKL or the like. If you turn on the light, the MID becomes dark. Light again, MID again on. The controller at the light switch does not cause any changes. Now please tell me that there is only one fuse burned and where I find it. Unfortunately I did not find it in the fuse box, I am actually sure that I pulled and controlled all fuses, but you can never know it. Nice Tach for the first time Jackson5

Hello wanted to introduce me once, am new here. Come from Berlin and drive an Omega B Car. 2,5 V6 which I have provided with a 3l engine with the I 500 waves of the Vectra B, have to add a group,A from Basturk completely under!! Heads were also made! Yes beatel still around now the chassis is on!! He also has a few airbrush my silverling, some Berliners will have seen him before. So enough!!!!! now to me, Bin der Dirk 35 years old and like to basel at the ommi work in the Bauha us and have wife and child!!! I say hello now to everyone!!!! Greetings Dirk

Hello guys, following problem, Omega 2.5 TD Built 01/95, 30 A fuse in the engine compartment Burns always through see photo know someone what a fuse this is, and why does it always burn through, green relay I have already replaced. Thank you!

Nice Sunday vehicle: Omega 3000 24v Bj.90 204hp. With chip the engine was supposed to afford 221Ps. Today I installed a tuning chip which allows the engine to rotate higher, e.g. also injection pump voltage and load dependence. Unfortunately, my motor control light is now always lit. According to the operating instructions the emergency running program turns on. Question:Could the chip be to blame? And how do you notice the emergency running program in motion? Lg from Graz Elmar

Hi Leutz, first of all thanks for the lively sympathy for my Omega death. Now I have found nothing really clever about the search function. Maybe one can help me now for the new used something very torn back and forth! Think maybe even at 525d Touring or E-Class 220 cdi Caravan or if feasible Vectra C Caravan VFL 1.9 CDTI. My wife and I are not conclusively tending but more to the Omega 2.5 DTI because the purse is very strained with 1500€, and just is not in it anymore! Everyone knows the Opel has the best price-performance ratio so what should I do? Thank you for your help and experience! THX TheONE1279

Hello, this morning I noticed that the batt. light was very weak (constant) had light on (XENON) and when I turned everything on (fog light, radio, blower at full level, back disk heating (with mirror) seat heating front re+li etc.) it gradually became minimally stronger and when I switched everything off gradually it became weaker. Independent of the motor speed, the whole time did not pay attention because it was a bit brighter in the morning. PS: have still guaranteed on the e box what can this be a lighter or battery or normal???? mfg

Now I have the first question at the front of the plug for the camshaft sensor is a hole where I think it’s for a screw for the head. There’s really something about the oil / coal, however. Should I get that out of there with a screwdriver or rather soak it somehow? Can I clean the edges and so on with brake cleaners reasonably or is it enough if it was cleaned with the cloth?? And if you start to look from the front, the spark plugs are really dirty to the rear… As the rearmost is completely dirty and there was also the most oil around. How can I clean the shaft where the one comes in. Are you afraid that this won’t get close. Can you also use brake cleaners there???

Hello to all = I’ve had my first Omega Caravan 2l 16 v Bj 98 245000 Km with automatic and climate and all in dark green (muharrrr) Opel without rust for 2 weeks but is still better than be VW where the rust can’t see but when it comes to it it’s really better when it’s burned or stolen fg My Omi has become the purest construction site when buying yet but since I’ve been searching this forum for days it’s become one. Engine runs first cream gear etc everything goes super well…. now that I studied Omiforum because of small parts I’ll now make everything new from cylinder head seal thanks you ;9 Have oil in the spark plug penetration the system oil separator is totally too! elephant feet track rod cross handlers shock absorbers brakes front are rust at both wheel runs back left side only little for it’s all right side is so new side wall…. tires etc you can’t find anything like that’s going to help me, but you know that I’ve only got to ask for some photos in the future.

At the end the cart shone in such a way that I was completely blinded…. But sometimes in a serious way: in terms of scale, the mess is when I can’t pass under the open tailgate (1,90m). The fun with the Laguna Grandtour Phase I (Bj. 97) of my girlfriend easily – and the is 1/1/2 classes lower. The bonnet with its “opening angle” is not better in this respect – especially the curves left and right of the grill. So to all the long guys: watch out and show respect to the thick.

hi, next problem. as seen on the pictures, my predecessor has broken off the plug for the hose to the supply container and tried to stick. did not bring much. as long as I drive quietly, with a little more drive (e.g. autobahn) it sprays out. the display went also briefly to over 100°. the supply container is however full, so hardly loss. think, that in the system is too little pressure and then no real cycle is there anymore.https://picasaweb.google.com/…/OpelOmegaBDefecterKuhler?… now I want to buy a new one. but there is one with AT cooling and the without. According to ETZOLD book S.65 but only from BJ. 10/99. fazit: after the images of Kurt (cooling WT , thanks cures 🙂 ) I actually would have to buy one for switch with climate, although I have automatic?