Category: Opel Omega & Senator Forum

I’m sorry!!! It’s not really about my OMEGA B 2,5 TD automatic. For a few days now, a bad smell or better said stench from the engine compartment into the car interior. After a long search I’ve turned out the front engine compartment, so the area front of the engine as a source of smell. When the engine hood is closed, the smell rises up from the grill. If the cooler KALT, the smell is very intense and to break. It smells like a burnt cooled coupling. Are engine and cooler WARM the smell is weaker and smells like burnt plastic or rubber. If the engine hood is opened, the hot air of the engine comes to it and the smell is not falsified and weaker about? I’ve only checked the temperature / smell is definitv different and level unchanged 2. Servo oil and brake fluid / odour differently and filling levels unchanged 3. Climate jumps and Compressor runs properly / climate is not very cold / too easily in the garage water?

Hello forum, after a long fault-free time I have to report back. This morning I did not get the passenger door open any more. I can open the door through the central lock, still by pressing the “stuppet” in the door. If I press the ZV indeed twitches this stuppet, but it does not move. Also by pulling or pressing it it it does not move. Now my question: Does someone have a guide for me how to get the door interior covering off? Looks quite screwless. – And how can I get you off without getting the door open??!!! Or how can I get the door open to dismantle the disguise? Thank you already once from me. Greetings, Becky

Hello guys, I’m just about to renew the lighting of the climate-tronics and have read the instructions here in the forum. I have the ashtray insert out and can’t discover a screw to completely expand the ashtray. Where should it be? Otherwise I can hardly get to the two screws for the large aperture. The radio with the insert is outside and I think I have found the temple. It sits further above the radio shaft. Is a slightly thicker rectangular temple, which can only be pulled down on the right side. Am I right there? Thank you in advance, Ronald

Hello your car lover out there! I am very desperate at the moment. I call my car Opel Omega 2,0 Limousine, “Dicker”! That’s the way to the beginning 🙂 This said Opel Omega is Bj 1992, 2.0 l machine, top maintained, Grarage vehicle has a probably since a day cylinder head problems:-(. Concretely: it was the 4 spark plugs changed and the cables. Yes! But then the bitter message: The 4 cylinder does not build up any compression. The spark plug was like new. I have not yet had the upper engine opened. So I am not 100% sure if it is the valve, cylinder seal? This vehicle, my dick is absolutely heart grown up to me. I don’t want to let it rot or the like. We have been known for 13 years…Bin proud of it 🙂 What would you do? p.s. Cylinder head seal? Very dangerous. Whole engine block? Ujujuj, but this will all be very expensive.

I finally bought an omega caravan 2.5. price was all ok. he took my b vectra for 3000,- in payment and I should put 200,- euro on it. after the test drive the problem: bender. he said, I do not, no problem. tuv also everything new. today I was there and wanted to pick up my car, but my car is not finished. he has to plug 1500,- euro, complete exhaust system with curved, tooth belt, brake, oil change. for this he now wants my vectra with the expensive alufelgen, was left without. just because he now has too much cost himself. the vectra is 09/97 and has run 160000 and just made tooth straps and sockets. is the diel fair? omega 05/97, 125000 run, with beige leather, bc. seat heating in front and back

Hi, so where do I start?As was described here in the forum (set off brake band and change automatic transmission oil) I did it today.Should be better with my problem, but pussy cake has become worse! Someone might have another idea? Explain it again! Choosing levers set on “D” and start driving.Bremse at a traffic light and wait for green. “D”always inside.Ampel turns on green and wants to drive, then gives a big jerk and he drives off. Between 50km\h and 60km\h when he should put in the last gear the following happens. He switches not into the last gear but turns over.Quasi as if you were at the switch the drive out of the gear.If I have luck he catches himself at 80km\h or I try my luck in which I briefly put the select lever back on “3” and then again on “D”. Hope you can do something with my description and then can help me. Servus

Hello guys, I’m driving a Vectra B 2.0 16V at the moment. But he’s already 300.000km down. I took the car from my mother, but she needs it again. Is a really great car, after 10 years he still brings with him really good performance, he cracks the 200km/h brand still easily and quickly he can drive. However, he is spared, is practically for my mother a child xD. As said, they need the good Opel again. And I have now before me to buy my own car. My budget is limited. However, the choice on an Opel Omega A Gl diamond (use because of the work a big car) is fallen. I looked for it and found it. If everything works out soon a viewing. My question now would be, what should I be careful with this type of car. So type of rust, vulnerable parts or popular Macken. So on good German so, what I should pay attention to when I look at it or make a test ride. In addition, it would be very friendly if I could tell other Omega A owners how to give a big look at the car. I love for this brand. I’s just want to make a quick look at my car.

Hello, with my Omega B Caravan 2,2 the ZMS broke down. Now it should be converted to EMS from the Omega A/B 2,0i. I read here in various forum posts on the topic, but found no part numbers. My question is whether I have researched the part numbers correctly. Would avoid something wrong to buy. Please do not hit if I am here something very detailed with the numbers, but they were all so in the lists at the online parts dealers. Flywheel from the scraper: GM 90280832 pressure plate (various numbers found for the same part): 1. 90 444 860 2. 90 465 921 3. 90 523 571 7. 90 541 096 8. 90 541 9. 90 542 881 Outfeed as before from the Omega B 2,90 779 3. 90 916 522 680 5,90 523 195 6. 90 571 7. 90 541 096 8. 90 542 881. 90 559 2. 90 779 3. 90 516 4. 90 522 680 523 519 6. 90 523 561 6. 90 8. 90 541 8.

Hi I bought a super-cheap Omega B Y26SE. And now my question is normal that a car squirts at low outside temperatures until the engine or the exhaust system comes to temperature. Can it be normal that it smokes white for a very long time? after about 150km driving nothing is to be seen neither in the stand nor during the drive, a short distance of about 20km is not enough. A water loss was not to be noticed on a distance of 2tkm, oil level also fits. He has a quite large exhaust system can this be normal that it is so? Of course it takes some time for all 7 pots (incl. Kats) to be on temperature. To the information of the car stood about 9months and was driven since purchase about 4tkm spark plugs and tooth belts come now, whereby the tooth belt can have nothing to do with it. A performance loss or similar cannot be determined. Thanks MfG FinalFX

Hello to all Omega drivers / inside. I have long thought about whether I should put this in here or not. But how often I stood alone and left in my yard and screwed on my beloved Omega ( 2.0 – 16V Bj 1996 ) And maybe here is the / one or the other that happens exactly like this. I myself live in 61267 New Anspach (Taunus) and am really very peaceful with my “Omi” (good, here and there times a Macke – timing belt, cams / crankshaft sensor, servo pump, cooling water indicator, pressure switch air conditioning, central ventilation – but which car does not have the) and the mesmerized problems you also get yourself in the grip (I say only “multifunction display) should at opel around the 400,- cost – I got with a “sock” again in gear etc. etc. etc. Well, long speech short meaning, if you have a little bit to “simple” – to screw together or just to meet me, then just to say hello to Frank and then just to me.