Category: Opel Omega & Senator Forum

Would like to pick up WW from the permanent place. Our 2.0 Omega looks a bit heavy… But in the flat country…. Well, look forward to your opinion and whether it makes sense to install an org. trailer coupling from Opel, as this is already registered in the FB with 1700kg at 10% incline. Lg Tosh

Hello, please for your tips, don’t scold, have used the sufu, but found nothing suitable. So, went as follows: in the summer omega caravan 2.0, 16V, X 20 XEV, EZ 1998, NFL, added, whereupon my Limo EZ 1996, VFL, first the service acknowledged for jealous. Technically it was the sprite pump, which I could fix with your help and also the ADAC very quickly, because I still had a donor omega there. Since I have my thick blue (the limo) right now with of course, I had to enjoy the new crossbars, elephant feet, and, and, and above all, new TÜV stamp. The caravan stopped for the time being, had powerfully empty and deep discharged the battery and had to be peppered up first. Driver’s door was still opened with the key, so much ZVR still worked, only the FFB did not go any more. He started at first sea very disheartened, but with other battery (too small) it went after the change then, he s In order to fill the tank at last (empty tanks are not good when standing) I took him with me to work and he ran 1a, as before silky soft and gentle. At the end of a climb, which he drove up great and fast, briefly the engine stopped, I briefly saw the red generator or oil control light, at least something red in the tacho, and the MKL remained permanently on (no blinking). The next day it took him in the cold condition (about 10-12 degrees) very long until he was mischievous. From then on the MKL remained my constant companion. If I turned off the engine, let the car roll with ignition, the MKL went off after the start about 1 sec and stayed on again. MKL otherwise stays on continuously, if the ignition is off, the engine is off. Starting constantly, whether warm or cold, took forever until it came. Actually, as if he didn’t get a sprite at first. I let him roll then, when possible, to spare the reason. Praiseworthyly, when I arrived at the end of the day At home again and the car had unloaded, he didn’t jump on ERST before the door any more, even though he was warm. Start with a portable battery or start aid (in real polung) in the evening and the following evening did not bring anything. He didn’t have a single pounder. Battery exchange for 70 Ah battery almost new: nothing. Battery about 5 minutes stuck off: nothing. Knock against the tank from below (sprit pump) nothing. Backup 18 (20 A) ok, changed: nic hts About 100 ml brake cleaner in the intake tract behind the air mass meter: nothing. Car is used, therefore ignition cable from the 1st cylinder (to the front/tooth belt) patched with insulating tape, but not yet to change at the moment. There seems to be no spark to come, ignition candle for 1. zyl. placed on the holding eye to lift the motor: no spark. Spark plug from the 1st cylinder NGK BKR 5EK (2 mass electrodes) makes good impression, from the brownish-grey coloring, also no oil-siff, not wet from the fuel. NWS: we were able to measure with digitalmulti only for a short time about 2.4 V, is that ok? I haven’t pulled off a KWS or NWS yet. Where exactly is the white bayonet plug X3 behind the battery? I changed battery several times, especially because you don’t get the big batteries so easily in. What is this box with relays, which is clipped on the relay box in the engine room above the plus pole of the battery. The 1996-Omega doesn’t have that, although One more question to the distributor: Ignition sequence 1-3-4-2, like the VW? Does it turn in the direction of the clock or against it? If it turns in the direction of the clock, I don’t understand the layout. Have I ever copied a picture from motortalk, which Kurt (?) kindly labeled: why isn’t it 1-4-2-3 or if it turns against 1-3-2-4? What do I think wrong? What I don’t think is the question, why is this mistake so complicated? So, thank you so much, I report what your advices do me good.

Hello to the round, because I am currently having a lot of problems with track grooves, I was looking for where it comes from. I noticed that if someone is working on the steering it is a slight “crack”, i.e. game, set up in the LZH. LZH ordered from the FOH and just installed it. I again had to notice with horror that the new LZH has as much game as the old one. The holder of the LZH (wave) has a measured diameter of approx. 17.95mm and the socket of the LZH has as much game as the old one. LZH itself D 18,3mm so good and like 3.5/10 game ?!? So old LZH again a little lubricated and the whole with corresponding torque again tightened and the “crack” was gone and. Can it be that the shaft of the holder is worn and not the socket. Because the holder seems to be a casting or forging part and the bushings look hard (ground surface). Does anyone know the new measure of the holder???

Hello yours, I have problems with my X20XEV, Built. 99, approx. 105 tkm. Forward: The engine was never driven with too little oil, never overheated or similar. Every 10,000 km it gets fresh Castrol Magnatec 10W40. For a short time I have a flap in cold engine condition. It sounds metallic, as if it was a single conrod or crankshaft bearing. If I reach an engine temperature of 90° C or more, it is no longer to be heard. This flap is just variable in speed and changed As far as I could locate it, it comes from the engine block itself. I definitely exclude a “tired” hydro-punch. My thought now goes there, if maybe not enough oil pressure is built up and the flapping is therefore no longer noticeable at high temperature and thin oil. So my next step would be an oil pressure measurement. Do you still have a saving idea? Thank you and many greetings Harry

Hi! On our 1992er Omi A 2,0 Caravan the differential has said goodbye. After we have still one of the 24 V it was close to install this. Some experienced screwdrivers told us in advance that the whole thing is compatible without probs….. after a few hours of intensive screwing we have now determined (differential already installed) that the drive shafts have a larger hole circle on the wheel side than the hubs of the 2.0i. Does someone have an idea how to do this nevertheless properly m it gets connected to each other? Or can we re-extend the whole story and go looking for a diff from the 4 cylinder??? We would like to avoid that if possible…. Thanks+Greetings Jürgan

Hello guys, can that be asked that already, but I found nothing about the search. My climate cools only if I turn down the temperature to the display “LO”. If I turn even a degree higher, so to 16, comes immediately warm air again. Since it cools with LO it probably can not lie on the coolant. Possibly the temperature sensor? My feeler for the outside temperature is also there. Can this also be related to it? Would be nice if someone can help me. Thank you and greeting Heiko

Hello, it’s time again. After my breakdown two weeks ago and the towing orgy with the ADAC I want to start my Seni now… nothing there, it doesn’t go. In the meantime my sister’s friend has built up a new ignition finger and distributor out of kindness, unfortunately I fear he has inserted the cables wrongly into the distributor.. more like a banging and puffing does not come. The ignition sequence 1-5-3-6-2-4 is clear, I just need to know now just how the cables properly picture?? or something.. would be great, otherwise I come here today garnich mehr vom Hof Thank you in advance

Hi, for the electric cracks this will probably conjure up a smile on the face, but I still ask. The following: For several days, I have been studying various schematics to specific circuits. Up to now, I could assign some relays and fuses which was actually the most difficult for me. In my narrow choice of fault causes, 3-4 relays and their associated fuses have come. Now my actual 2 questions. a: Can you, if I have a similar design, It can find relays in the circuit, replace the suspect with this doubtless, to check whether it is due to this relay? b: The relay in the annex, one could, at ignition one, bridge the pin 4 and 8 on the relay base to check the circuit for intactness? Or is that in the end even more complicated, as I already thought.

Hello first of all I like to drive the Opel Omega REALLY and it is quite cost-effective in the reperature REALLY, but I am NOT a screwdriver and forced to help me with the screwing that are currently Hape0815 and The Stressmaker THANK YOU NOT FOR YOUR SPIT! But the general question, Bzw what becomes a problem for me is the question, if you have an aged omi with high mileage and maintenance stowage, whether the crafting will ever have an end? At the moment in my case as if one solves a problem and two other new ones are getting up. Now the TÜV hangs on June 1st like a threatening sword, over the whole thing. Now, for me as a screwdriver emptyling the question arises, still put money in the car, like in a barrel without floor? Or say OK I drive the still until June as it is and then buy another Omi what do I know an FL or something? Because please doesn’t understand me wrong, I love my Omi and it would also but I don’t want to have a permanent construction site, especially because my partner ( long distance relationship ) lives 550 km from front door to front door and I just need a reliable car and I don’t want to be scared every time. I just wanted to hear your experiences and opinions about how to act? Or get TÜV off and save on another OMI? Greeting Roland

Hello guys That this abs light is coming all the time I’ve already got used to it that she stays on jut jut is not nice but now comes the other yellow engine symbol and that stays on which of you can help there ? but please don’t turn me out for it ich zu DOOF would be nice if someone lives near me and helps me on the jumps so I know if it’s worth putting money in the omi I don’t know if mine is right in my profile therefore ez 97 2.0 /16 V 100kw Automatic/climate 125000km Thanks for the micha