Category: Opel Omega & Senator Forum

Hi, for a few days I hear a short sum in my Omega B Caravan 2.5 TD after the start, which shuts down again after approx. 2-3 seconds. At the same time I noticed that the rear has increased by a few millimeters every day, so that the car now comes quite high legged. Consequently I realized that the level control now every day assumes that the car would be heavy loaded (but is empty) and wants to balance the level accordingly… Had Any of you already found the same problem and a solution without having to go to the workshop?

I would like to raise the Omega A Caravan to treat the underbody. What do I need for this? I don’t have a very flat floor, but only a slightly sloping yard, where the one side is about 10cm lower. After reading all possible variants with two ramps, 3 shunting car lifters, 2 ramps + 2 bucks, only one side on 2 bucks, car can change when lifting unevenly, ramps with integrated jack, etc., I thought about something like this: http://www.tbs-aachen.d e/…/…cke__Unterstellboecke_6t_i73_22358.htm andhttp://www.tbs-aachen.de/…/…agenheber_30_t_140-510_mm_i73_4443.htm Can you get this car on 2 or better 4 bucks? I asked the lady from this shop, she thinks you can’t lift a car on 4 bucks, because after that you can’t put it on 2 bucks on the lower side. Theoretically, it would be possible to set the jack 4 times, at each wheel once, or once in the middle of the front and back. At what points do you set these lifting devices in this car?

Dear Omega friends, an era is now coming to an end. My beautiful Omega is sick and I have to give it away. A lot of money and love has been invested in the car, but now he has to give way to an Astra J Sports Tourer. I would like to hand over the car in loving hands here. At the moment an X30XE V6 with a KME gas system is rolling in the car. Performance is over 230 hp. The car has TÜV until April 2017. Engine is still running well and clean, does not burn oil, however it oils. The cylinder head gasket. Now it also has a little oil in the cooling water circuit. Water loss does not. Think it is slowly breaking the head gasket. Since I have invested a lot of money and new parts in the car for the last TÜV April 2015 and last year then still the timing belt, water pump, cooling water thermostat, cooling water pipe, new cooler, new climate cooler with dryer, heating valve, new heat exchanger heating footroom, 4 new Zimmermann sports brake discs punched, aluminium valve kel, new coupling with pull-out cylinder, wheel bearing, Niro Jetex Group A sports equipment and much more have changed, I think it is too bad to scrap it. This should only be a short list, if interested there are more detailed descriptions. I will take pictures now and can gladly adjust them or send PN. Many greetings Otto

Good morning, all I have read this message completely, but find no solution. In my case, the following is the case: I have an Omega B with automatic air conditioning but the heating is only warm on the passenger side with me (i.e. driving side) everything ice-cold itself remains the seat heating. What can that be?? Also the fan or the blower like this is only delayed. Directly after the reset car and off pressing they also go. On Eco function also does not change S. How do you possibly have to flush something? Many pictures or so where does the termostat sit if the hood is damaged?? Or in another forum son servo is described in the footroom? What can I do?? If I turn on the climate, for example, to make my windshield free of fog on the right side Warm (hot) air Out. Left side all ice cold footroom Left disc and just left air outlet. With Hi and Lo nothing changes. LG ANDY

Hello, now the A-Ware spins around… Of all places I need it.. It runs well in itself, but has dropouts with increasing frequency. Even in thrust mode, you can see how the rev counter drops by 500 turns, but there is no rupture and the real speed does not fluctuate of course. Also no light or anything. On normal drive, the whole thing then turns out to be incl.. The schematic is indeed from the cadett http://www.vectra16v.com/slp/slp_kadett_e_mj87.p But df should be the right one for the 4.2 motronics. What would be the most likely thing now? Crankshaft sensor or ignition coil or STG or…? MKL doesn’t come… The dropouts are also very short, under a second I would say. But the engine feels completely out and is immediately resuscitated…

hello, I guess I’m about to have to say goodbye to my omega…at the front left side of the long haul, right on the axis, rusts it through! the car was just on the stage to weld, but the workshop refused to do it then, because this place would not be to be welded. unless he had a prefabricated repair plate (3mm). now I ask you, is there such a rep sheet for the omega b? or can you weld there? many thanks and greetings

Hello together……. I separated myself from my Omega two days ago from my heart. It was the most comfortable and beautiful car I’ve driven so far but if you have to screw your car on every day off and put every cent in it then you think about how much sense it all still does. At least I asked myself this question. I wanted to sell it before the winter because as it still looked you could at least ask for some money. I don’t know what winter would have been like. Because the last winter was really bad at the omega. I had the feeling I was repairing here in an endless loop A man has to do what a man has to do What I’m driving next I don’t know yet exactly, probably it’s going to be an audio because I don’t want to catch up with the rust anymore. I’m not sure about the motorization either. On the one hand I want to save some sprite and on the other side I want to I will definitely stay here in the forum and look in here every day. Many thanks to all who have given me helpful tips here, it was always very nice to you and hope that this will remain so. I will definitely stay faithful here. Wish you all the best with your omegas and an accident-free winter. Dear greetings silvio

Hello together, during the last summer vacation I had to find out unfortunately that the cooling performance of my Omega with residential trailer is quite overburdened. It probably means that Opel had built in a reinforced cooler in the 2.2 with standard trailer coupling and automatic transmission, because it costs at the FOH however to the 400,- € and I am not clear whether this statement is true at all and above all, whether it fits at all, that is a bit too risky for me. the question me whether you can increase the cooling capacity in other ways (assembly further fans, cooler of another model)? Do you have any ideas for this?

Good morning dear forum community, after which I had rest for a long time, my Omega smiled at me again friendly with the engine control light (MKL). After switching he did not immediately take gas, so, my suspicion, camshaft sensor (NWS). OP-COM on it, error, camswelenne sensor not in the target range. So the cross test so extensively and often described by Kurt. Crankshaft sensor (KWS) pulled off, it does not start. So NWS defect. So I ordered a new one. built-in, same error exists. (MKL on) Cable trajectory checked (yes, he has the famous patching point, unfortunately due to the cable length not so easy to change anymore) and found this in the wire harness, where it goes into the plastic cover in front of the timing belt, 2 cables are scrubbed through (both red/green). So wire harness patched, error still present. Old NWS built-in, MKL remains out, apparently everything good. However, during the cross test he did not jump on the NWS anyway. He jumps on KWS without any problems, but also the MKL stays out. All in all he runs round, immediately takes on gas etc. Now I stand here and doubt myself. There are the different variants with impulse encoder and reverberator at the NWS. My X20XEV first registration 01.06.1995 should therefore be an X20XEV B1, right? Oh yes, the sensor is from Hella via Metzger, No. 090307 Now to the actual question, and maybe someone is also so nice and likes to put it in the FAQ. W Elchen Sensor exactly I need and/or which engine generation, reverberator or impulse generator, and how can I distinguish these two differences? Thank you and a sunny weekend Alexander

Good! Since my soon TÜV/ASU is due, I wanted to ask the people in the area Berlin/Brandenburg where I can go? Criteria : – TÜV outside TÜV and Dektra Haus – friendly, honest, reliable and inexpensive workshop. – no penible and critical magnifying glass finder. Greetings kian PS vehicle is stainless and in a well-kept and good condition!