Category: Opel Omega & Senator Forum

Hello can I at the Opel Omega b Bj 99 petroler where currently 5w30 is inside without further ado pour the oil 10w40 on it or should I rather leave (rest of the 10w 40 are about 5 liters which I want to use) and what is the teasing exactly zb 10 w 40 ? Thanks

Hello Have found today that the two rear axle springs are broken at the Omi. It is a 2.2 L with 144PS automatic.Which springs can I install? Will also the support rubbers be replaced with ? Where do I get these and there are differences ? One more how long do I have to count for this work. Thank you for the answers.

Hello all, I have a 2.6 V6 Omega with automatic transmission unfortunately shows this often service and bangs the gears also quite hard in, we have already made a transmission oil change and nevertheless it ticks further around turns sometimes also simply not. Now I have a little browsed around and have seen that the diesel transmission from the last 2.5 DTI is a 5 gear transmission in hope that it is then even better translated I would like to convert there already Experiences, tips, info? Mfg Darius

Hello everyone, since last week I am proud owner of a new (used) Opel Omegas. Now the car has only a small problem. The radio (NCDC 2015 with Bose System and telematics in the glove compartment) gives off a loud bang every 5 seconds from all loudspeakers, while no music comes anymore, after the bang the music builds up slowly again. If I turn the volume completely to 0 it remains silent, but as soon as I even rest the volume I’ve already been looking for my fingers sore, I’ve also found enough solutions for the problem with the CDs, but I haven’t found anything for a bang yet. Unfortunately, I can’t really do a lot with the schematics, because I lack the approach. Who knows a similar problem, or could give me a tip where to start with the search for errors? I tried once. to download it on YouTube so that you understand what I mean. https://youtu.be/YA7LQMurYqI Thank you very much in advance. Olli

While driving through a pothole, the driver’s door jumps up. This happens regardless of the locking state. Can it actually only lie at the lock position opposite the catch hook or at the adjustment screw of the actuation rod from the lock in the door or? Has anyone ever had this ? In a right turn this happened to me and the door almost completely ripped off at 50kmh. No car experiences! Incredible! If someone comes to meet you, the simply omega door gets in the headlight.

Hi together! I’m seriously thinking about installing an “old” used (American) V8 in my MV6 to make it audiblely more beautiful, but above all stronger and more powerful. A high torque plays a decisive role for me. It’s clear that you also need the right transmission, chassis & adequate braking system. This idea is not new now, I would just like to know if any of you can help me with real experience values..? I would like to have a really older engine with powerful engine capacity and without any electronic snaps with “real” carburetors. I would probably also need space in the engine room. Such a conversion is certainly tremendously expensive, but this charming thought hardly lets me go any more. I hope for a lively answer, so until then! Dietmar

Hi guys, I just want to write down my experiences here. Actually, I would have liked to put my answer on a certain topic, what I once found here – and from which I pick up a few questions, but I can’t find it partout again. I tried the search in all sorts of different combinations and finally fail. The topic is absolutely not to be found. Therefore, the title here sometimes also with a few more terms, that he in the search generally often and is found faster. If I should be able to find it somehow, I will perhaps also refer to the instructions that I read here in the motor talk at some point. Because that’s exactly what I save myself here, just because it already exists. Here I only write my experiences – which are certainly not of the wisdom last end, but maybe one or the other can still be of help.Why the whole thing? I have exchanged the differential because I am able to find it faster. the old Diff didn’t come through the HU test anymore. Only for the HU might have been enough to clean it up. But since it’s been siffing for years, I wanted something more long-term. That’s why it ended up a complete change against a dry differential. The problem was and is the Simmerring on the flange to the cardan shaft, and you don’t even change it by the way. I’ve read a lot, really a lot here on the subject before. pps, look at all the pictures I can find, and then I can practically get the surgery out of my head. But of course it always comes differently than you think. Dirt in the differential is really not so good. That’s why I paid attention to embarrassing cleanliness during the whole surgery and finally consumed 4 rolls of kitchen paper. Absolute anti-recommendation here directly for the 8’s packages from Lidl. I think I’ve never had such a little stable kitchen paper. And especially for such a work k Here (probably in the thread I’m looking for to this day) I read somewhere something about ‘change takes no hour’. I needed for everything in total for the whole day, so I don’t think it’s the yardstick. But it was worth it, I learned a lot and I am (see below) happy to have done it myself and not given it into someone else’s hands. If you know how to do it, which tool you need, which Han In my action here, however, the trunk has already been unpacked and workstations have taken roughly as long to set up, including the car’s high-greasing. In short: I first cleaned the replacement differential, i.e. mainly derusted. There have been a few boulders flown away. Does this really damage the stability of the housing? Or is that anyway completely oversized and even in the worst case would be a break-through. rusting or loss of stability almost never to be expected? What kind of material is the housing made of? Only after that, so if I was practically sure that no dirt can fall from anywhere, I opened it, drained the old oil and cleaned it and resealed it. After that, I changed the diffs and afterwards cleaned the disassembly externally, then opened it, drained oil and cleaned it and resealed it. I kept the torque values exactly. I only executed the respective rotation angles to about 1/3. The replacement differentialExternally clean and derust: The replacement diff was quite rusty, the more or less loose pieces had to be removed first. So that nothing falls into the diff, I made conical sealing stoppers made of kitchen paper for the drive shaft rings. Place three sheets on top of each other and fold 2 times in the middle to form a After removing the rust, I blew the part cleanly.Let go of the oil and look at it: After that I loosened the lid screws and let out the raven-black and rather penetrating stinking oil (just pull 5 cm over the table edge as in picture 7 or 13, then pull open the bottom and let run out).At best, the (at least top) shrau before levering, because otherwise a few dry remnants of the old seal quickly fall on the plate wheel. Is cleaning work that you can save yourself. The bevel wheels in the basket look shiny, the plate wheel looks matt. What of both here is the harbinger of a possible grosser damage in the future? I suppose the shiny surfaces in the bevel wheels in the basket are not so good. The magnet already has a light hairstyle base. (Pictures 01 to 03) Out of the diff approx. 0.5 liters of oil. Since I lost a lot in the meantime due to slanted storage, I suspect that it was finally in operation with roughly 0.7 liters. So at least 300 ml too little.Clean magnets: First I wanted to wipe the chips off the magnet. I noticed that it can be turned. So I thought it could be unscrewed… even if I had never seen it in a picture. Unfortunately, there was nothing with screws. At the moment I tried to unscrew it, which will be successful. So the kitchen towel out, fingers on the magnet on it, and with a thin spatula the magnet was levered. Then I had the part with the six hogs outside. Since there was not a little metal abrasion pamp under the magnet, I wiped it out forward (picture 03). After that I wanted to clean the magnet (picture 04). I noticed that these six hogs on the magnet are not also part of the magnet, but that you can wipe them away (picture 05) and the magnet I haven’t read or seen anything before (Fig. 06).I don’t know whether it can be taken out and that these six hucks are already pure deposits/metal abrasion, although taking them out may be a matter of course.But you have to know.Cleaning them differently inside: inside, the differential looked very dark brown, which probably is aged oil residues. Here in the forum I read several times about the fact that the Diff with brake cleaner thoroughly rinse, which meant for me to hold the can there full pot. Here in the forum was also somewhere that such an action would cause quite sudden rust. I went out here from hours to days. However, it is so that SOFORT, as soon as the brake cleaner has evaporated, creates a really flour-dry brown layer, which pours delicately into the center of the earth and is actually easily wiped away. Problem is that the In my panic I called @KurtBerlin (a big thank you for your tips and your calming words last time ), who had written me his contact details years ago. Kurt also said that this was rust, which immediately and instantly would arise. Protection from or remedy against this should bring something oily/fatty, which one immediately after the brake reaction On Kurt’s recommendation, I then took WD40, which also worked wonderfully. I finally found the whole brake cleaner action a rather catastrophic idea. Just times the basket became a bit cleaner. I then broke the whole thing due to doubtful sense and lack of result and only soaked the complete diff with WD40, so everywhere where dust approaches were to be seen, neatly on it… especially naturally in the storage places left and right, to the cones wheels in the basket as well as at the bearing of the entrance shaft (just blindly chased in to the rear, you can see nothing) and the gears and tooth flanks were flushed with WD40. At the end, after two cans of brake cleaners (they were empty faster than I could look) and about half a can of WD40 (which, on the other hand, was amazingly far), the Diff looked like in picture 07. I doubt the rust theory however by now. ngen (thanks to brake cleaners now completely without oil components). Because on the tooth flanks, which had no oil deposits as a covering, this “rust” was not created anywhere, which looked strangely again like the previously newly opened one with WD40. Result for me: never again brake cleaner in a diff!!!Spins by oil change: I think by now, it is enough a single complete oil change (open lid and completely tilt oil out), especially if the magnet again völli A good new oil (e.g. the often recommended Castrol Limited Slip 75W-140, which fits ALL locked and unlocked differentials with the Omega) dissolves and binds the old dirt, which could make a simple further oil change by suctioning through the filling and oil control opening possible a few thousand kilometers later. Then you would have all the dirt out and weed it is a deposit-free diff with really fresh clean oil. Overall, however, the regular oil level control is probably more important. Clean sealing surfaces and reseal them: At first, the magnet should return to the housing again at the latest. To do this, at best, something oiled in so that it cannot rust. To clean and smooth the sealing surfaces of the differential, I put a kitchen towel with the corners in the top of the diff and pressed it loosely onto the plate wheel for suction (holds then alone, see picture 08). I then scratched the surfaces with an old and already quite round-sucked spatula piece by piece and thus smoothed as well as it went. First I rinsed the lid of the Diff roughly with brake cleaner, then wiped away the wiping away dirt with kitchen cloths and then rinsed it again. I cleaned and smoothed the sealing surface with the spatula, so the coarse rust base (or whatever that might be with the aluminium lid) After that, I wiped the sealing surfaces on differential and lid with brake cleaner-soaked kitchen cloth without grease. As a sealant, I took Dirko Grau, which remains relatively flexible and can probably be removed again quite easily later. The often recommended Dirko HT Red should probably be a more difficult case when removing it, as I often read. I cut only the first front part of the syringe cover, so that the pulled out caterpillar about 1 or 1.5 mm thick. Then I carefully put the dichtraupe on the lid (pictures 09 and 10), pulled the diff on the work table just over the edge, and the lid in squat and from the back through the screw holes looking as accurately as possible and pressed without moving. With one hand pressing further (look, moving still quite slightly!) then with the other hand up and down first a screw turned in, so that you don’t have to watch that the lid was 1.5 mm thick. Then I turned in all the screws only with nut and extension, with no gasket. I thought I had used too little. Then ratchet on it and over cross… hmmm gasket looks different, I thought. When I first turned with the torque wrench a round with 40 Nm and then the second one with 60 Nm, a fine sausage sealant came out (Fig. 11). I found this for the very first liquid seal of my life. Since the time of work was up anyway, I let the Diff rest overnight.Filling and tightness: It was only filled with Castrol Limited Slip 75W-140 on the next day.Before the installation I misted it in with FluidFilm, in which perhaps naive hope that this will stop a bit of rust.After 7 days and so far 150 km this diff is completely quiet and dense.The differential change in itselfRising and lifting: Difficult was in the process of Rental plants were looking for a semi-safe variant to lift the Diff from the rear axle. The arms of the gear lifter stood quite far up in the way, so that I finally got to the Diff with rubber blocks placed on top of each other. The fact that the construction was highly risky and shaky didn’t make the construction easier. Since the Diff does not have a completely straight floor, I covered the front wooden wedge, which made it even more shaky. Hmm. Important: The Diff has its Schwe rpunkt a bit before the height of the drive shafts! And the light aluminium lid does not change anything at all at the weight as well as at the center of gravity of the diff zero. So the center of gravity is still before the height of the drive shafts.Extend drive shafts: For the diff change I read several times that only the right drive shaft would have to go out. Yes, the diff went out like this, but convenient is far different. I found it a moderately complicated shimmering, especially with the wobbly lifter structure mentioned in the previous paragraph. . I couldn’t have imagined a reinstallation, so the left drive shaft had to be removed for installation. The expansion of the drive shafts was really a breeze compared to how much respect I had for driving out and driving out, etc.: wheels off, six screws on the wheel flange loosened, drive shaft had to be raised (to do this, they had to press together by hand, went completely without lever iron etc), with two large screwdrivers from the diffraction (was really proble Then, by the way, the ABS pulse ring can be cleaned very easily.Nervig is the down-to-down on the lifting platform, in order to loosen the hand brake, twist the wheel flange, tighten the hand brake again, etc. Drive shaft on wheel flange: Because the question came up in one topic and was not answered whether the drive shafts are put into the wheel flange (with gearing and so on), I took two pictures. Ne In, only the six screws hold the drive shaft (Figures 20 and 21).Holder of the differential:Problem 1: this different#$?/!ne upper screw on the holder of the differential, which is directly opposite the holding plate of the track rod (Figure 22) requires a fairly short nut. With such a nut, however, it is easy to do so. But you have to have it. Problem 2: the holder of the spare diff has other hole sizes in the holder for the screws as well as other screw sizes. The screw had to be removed from the upper/front damping socket on the underbody (Fig. 23). According to TIS, the exhaust system has to get out of the cardan shaft to the side. But finally, with Trick 17 thanks to a good tip (Fig. 24; at the top of the screw, however, it must be a ring, so that you can finely replace the picture; put the picture back in the wrong position). as far as it goes, then out again 1-2 cm, and from the outside (standing in front of the wheel box) press the drive shaft into the diff with a short swing. The screwing is then again more elaborate: lift down the lift, loosen the hand brake, turn the wheel flange fittingly, insert screws, tighten the hand brake, tighten the stage again, tighten screws, and and and… and then at best want to tighten everything over cross … but it is possible, is just an eternal up-rlow-pure. The banger at all … was … a guy who wanted to make me know on the second day just before work, just before I finally wanted to seal off the expanded diff, that I was doing way too much work. He is a mechanic in a hut rented into the rental plants. Anyway, the bird is practically always there. First he asked what I was doing exactly and why. Reason for the whole action is the Simmerring at the entrance shaft on the cardan side. Well, when he knew this then he was of the opinion that one could If you want to change the Simmerring without any problems. Just change the screw down, then switch the Simmerring, and then put on with an estimated perhaps 40 Nm, you would then have to feel rough, how much game the wave would still have… because there must be a game, but not too much. And the bearings are not that sensitive after all. Then I told him first of all that there is nothing possible without torsiometers or friction gauges or that the diff does not hold 1000 km anymore. The exact specifications in the repair manuals would be completely exaggerated and no human would do such a thing so precisely. Then I told him that the torque must be values of about 150 Ncm … he did not believe – after a discussion, how much this is actually, namely only a minimum of 1.5 Nm – of course. Then he got his finest torque wrench, which starts starting at 5 Nm. in a vice and then he touched the 30 cm lever at the very back and with his little finger the part to trigger and meant, that is already so insanely little, so there can be 1,5 Nm at the differential screw at all. (Then I was already convinced inwardly that I was talking to a complete idiot.) Well, he never understood that this is not the screw, but the torque, which one needs, to the Then there was a change of word for torque and breaking moment, which was already pretty hard to get over. Well, we were finally at his torque wrench again and I showed him that on 5 cm from the axis of rotation (i.e. the distance that the flange on the input shaft has to the axis of rotation) the 5 Nm can not be triggered with any finger, so the value is much smaller, since I have the He then completely doubted that I could turn the wave with the little finger at all… I even turned it off (which, admittedly, is not really an art). Then he suddenly said nothing more. Grad his last reaction then I found such a rough satisfaction towards this guy, which in the meantime also something of 30 years of professional experience. palaberte and thought that there was only nonsense on the Internet, there would have been something written or something like that by some ignorant person, … quite honestly, such a huge idiot, that doesn’t go on any cow skin! I really hardly get up, for that I’m simply too lazy and too comfortable, I don’t have anything to do with it either – because I knew I was thinking about it anyway. But inwardly … And if I have to imagine that somewhere in some workshop you are unknowingly s o lets a completely unlearnable idiot to his car … there the neck hairs turn up. The story is really so crazed that you don’t believe it. Especially the banger with “30 years of professional experience” sounds so clichéd, because you hardly think that actually people with such a kind I know how many years come through the professional life unpunished. But that’s exactly how he came to meet me. Oh, and at the very beginning he just put his handles on the plate wheel and ‘on Spi If I hadn’t been so chilled, I would have liked to have cut one in my face immediately! I do everything super sensitive and clean, and he just does it! But thanks to my mind he was allowed to keep his teeth. Well, that was actually – even if the guy was just embarrassing – the best conclusion for the possibly actually a little exaggerated break that I made. Conclusion For the somewhere here propagated 45 min for the exchange was i with my more than 1 day probably bit too slow. Okay, was also a little more than just change, and my first attempt. I did it myself and know that I didn’t fix anything. I also directly got places above the Diff in fluid-film’, which I would never have gotten to otherwise and otherwise disturbed the brown pest again at the bottom of the bloom. The first 150 km have survived, the exchange-diff runs completely silently, no noises, and it is also now a few days I thought it was good, I learned a lot of things and I am currently (you haven’t even moaned yet) quite satisfied with the result. And: I know again – when I see this amount of text – that I also have a bang somehow.

moin in the round, you had to do over Easter all at the car so I waited until AFTER Easter. problem….climate does not cool…………. April 2019….over a workshop with appropriate device to fill….was held until August 2019 August 2019 over another workshop climate inspection, especially let the connection nozzles test… via the device emptied….vacuum built up….and refilled. The air conditioner has not detected any leak…. question? what to do??? Ka Can I check the climate for tightness?? HOW? e.g. in the auto-self-help compressor seems to be tight…have searched with lamp for greenish outflow Can I check if there is still coolant in the system? The comp only starts when it gets notification that the system has sufficient coolant…. can I bridge the one that it starts?? Did not find the right search here over Easter… Would be very pleased and grateful about antores…. Week you lg Wolfgang

Hello omega friends! I found nothing suitable in the forum despite a long search. My basic problem is that the heating control valve licks again and again after several replacements. In search of the why I also asked myself the question, whether the pressure in the cooling system is perhaps too high, i.e. whether I might fill the coolant balance tank too full. CO-test made because of ZKD. Is fine. I upload a photo for this. The container obviously does not sit horizontally. right in the engine compartment. If I fill the water up to the arrow tip on the right side, the water mirror on the left reaches to about the upper edge of the overflow hose. Mind you, in the cold state. Can this be correct? Is the balance tank not sitting in it properly? I also have another question: On the second uploaded photo you can see behind the coolant balance tank (to the vehicle interior) a cable, which I fixed so for the photo. I just hung down, which I noticed for some time after the purchase. On demand at the FOH he said, he doesn’t know that either, but it doesn’t have a function. The Opel has always run so perfectly with the free hanging cable. Can anyone say anything about it? I look forward to your contributions. Thanks in advance and many greetings

Hello, after starting the engine, it actually runs clean at speed but after a few minutes, whether the automatic selector lever is on P, D or N, the engine simply goes off. We have attached an original Opel reader to read out errors. Gears selected, says the reader, no communication with the vehicle. Before this error occurred, the engine went out, we had spark plugs changed in the Opel workshop, because they were allegedly over. Weis It’s the first Omega my son bought. He doesn’t want to give it back. There’s still a lot to do but he loves the vehicle. Km 188 000, built in 1999. 2,5 l V6 (V94) Oh well, I forgot, the Fzg jumps after going out again and again immediately and sometimes it runs longer sometimes shorter before going out.