Category: Opel Omega & Senator Forum

After water loss and installation of a nine head gasket before 40,000 km now got the Job’s message. “Motor burned”. A control valve is hardly noticeable torn and a cylinder did not get enough cooling, so that according to my Opel expert (you could see it with the naked eye) the engine block slowly burned miserable. So the otherwise reliable engine managed exactly 146,000 km. Much too little!!! So I had to “wreck” and drive a ….pardon…. Citr oen C 4 Grand Picasso. Could not say no to the offer. Already other members had bad luck ? Greeting of the@rno

Hi, yesterday my Omi (Caravan 2.2DTI, BJ03) donated a set of new rims and tires. It is about the 6 spokes OPC rims 8J x 18 ET 39 and Conti ́s 235/45 R18 98W. At the beginning the tires had also ground on the spring plate, the problem was solved with 40mm track plates (per axle). Before winter tires were mounted on steel rims 16 inches. Since the tire assembly my Omi somehow drives strangely, has to fight with him. Difficult to describe.. arke shock transmission to the steering wheel, with bad roads (which we have in the “east” enough) the steering wheel pulls in all possible directions..no grinding noises detectable that driving becomes more difficult than with small winter tires is clear… on smooth road it runs great, also no imbalance available. Am now a little skeptical if this something doesn’t quite work out…Federwegsbeschreiber get on the VA in any case! . Thank you and greeting Marci1808

Help – since recently my Omega (Bj 12/ 89, petrol, 115 hp) no longer reacts to gas changes at times. If it is switched on during the ride, the engine suddenly says goodbye. At idle times at the traffic light it happens that the engine does not react to a new gas giving and then it runs out. Most of the time a restart is possible again after a short time. The Opel workshop has already changed the control unit – but did not bring anything. Someone already had the same problem and I hope that you have found a solution.

Good morning! New week, new problem! When driving to work a few hours ago it started to race again, for a long time the handbrake has been annoying me with a speed-related loop, that however always could be eliminated by a slight tightening of the handbrake (and / or at the same time slow reverse driving). Today, however, this was not the case. It has repeatedly shrewd when putting on the handbrake, after which a constant loud noise was observed when driving on I’m not the other way around – therefore I have to go home with it this afternoon. But I also tested (by the way, everything in the rest area), whether the hand brake is still pulling and it is doing so, even if only at the 5th snap. Can you control the brake somehow externally, if I take off the wheel this afternoon? Can it be due to the wear of the brake pads? Actually, they were changed in the workshop about 3 months ago (is there a warranty claim?) and should not cause trouble again. How do I pick up the car, so that I can turn the brake disc and test it? That’s what drives me animally again.. At the same time, my horoscope promised me today a day full of luck, on which everything was supposed to run smoothly.

….unfortunately, my omi didn’t like me… you can see the result below. whether he is still to be saved (which I doubt very much) I will take a closer look tomorrow.

Moin, some of you may still know me from Lichtenfels. I haven’t been in the forum for a very long time. Now I have a problem with my Omega 2.5TD Facelift. He got an AT motor, he has always been in trouble with the battery before and unfortunately he still does that today. Therefore the following questions… Data before: Omega 2.5TD “Facelift”, charging voltage at 14 volts, i.e. controller OK, battery new. Starts with the new battery perfectly, everything is in order. g, when switched off, it pulls 0.6 amps out of the on-board network (measured with DMM). After pulling the fuses, the fuse to slot 12 turned off the “silent consumer”. Now, my question: Which consumers hang on the circuit altogether? After pulling the fuse, the turn signals no longer work, the instrument lighting is dead, the optical confirmation for the ZV is also dead, opens and closes. Door lighting is not affected and leaks et. There is a vulnerability that should be examined first with the model. It is a hands-free system installed by Siemens, but it is not used. Otherwise, the vehicle is electrically all series and no additional extras. I would like to thank you for good advice and hints and would be very happy if you could “encircle” the problem from a distance. LG Hinnerker

Hi And again I hope for your help… Had the typical ABS STG total failure with ABS/TC light and speedometer failure. After a long time back and forth the company BBA Reman in Hamburg repaired the STG and on Saturday I had a package. So immediately disassembled half the engine to be able to install the STG again, assemble, finish! And wonderful no more yellow lights and the speedometer funks again. Yesterday evening to reward car wash, suck, drive. And what grins on me? Ne yellow TC and ABS lamp!!! grrr BUT the speedometer still works!?? Where should I start? Since the speedometer works, it has to be a different defect than before, right? If the speedometer (after just 2 days) is back in A…. then the speedometer should not say anything, or should I be so lucky that the Chip A was repaired, which is responsible for speedometer and ABS/TC and now Chip B is in the STG in the bucket, which only serves ABS/TC????

Hello dear friends I need your help again. We have a new omega mv6 in the family of cars was standing a while before the purchase and now the radio does not work on the BC is always only SAFE I have read the operating instructions a thousand times and done everything as described but I do not come to enter the code am grateful for every answer LG Opel omega B MV6 Limousine BJ 1998 98TKM full equipment 0035/333

I wish you a good evening on all sides! What can it be like if the speed moves in idle mode around 500 revolutions, does not fluctuate or drop? I think this number is just too small, even if nothing happens, I still have the feeling that I am sitting on a washing machine. Can this be due to the spark plugs? Or should I have the speed adjusted to the workshop and the speed adjusted over the control unit? How expensive would that come to me? What idle speed had Is it the Omegas of the year 1994?

Hello guys. I encountered the following problem in my troubleshooting on my Omega.The 5th cylinder is not running.The candle hole is black around the candle. My question would now be whether it is possible that the cable on which the ignition module is connected can be defective.The module itself is original Opel and new. If the cable is defective it is possible to replace it and what does it call itself “Zündmodulkabel” “Zündkabel”o.ä. Thank you for your help Andreas