Category: Opel Omega & Senator Forum

Good evening! Had my Omi now 2.5 weeks in the workshop. First the problem was that the emergency program incl. MKL approached during the acceleration. After replacement or checking of exhaust gas return valve, pressure hoses, speed sensor and air quantity meter he was released today as healed. On test drive from workshop everything was OK. Now the problem has turned around: If I am at the intersection (Standgas) the MKL & emergency program starts, then I slip slowly and at some point, we nn he comes on the road and I finally come at higher speeds (from about 2000 – 2500) , the MKL goes out and he runs as if nothing was. Maybe any of you have an idea??? Am despairing! Greetings Maik

hello together… I noticed that I have some kind of game in the steering. it definitely doesn’t come from the parts of the front axle. when I hit the steering a virtel turn in the standing motor I certainly have 3 fingers wide game. can shake the steering wheel back and forth. when I turn the steering wheel back in straight exhibition, the game is no longer big to feel. except when driving and steering it is noticeable something. at the steering parts of the front axle nothing moves at all. also not the steering lever on the steering gear moves with it. wanted to ask you now where the spear could come from. from the gearbox itself? or can it be at the steering column what? does the omega actually have such a joint from the steering column to the transmission? maybe you can help me, because I just want to bring the omni a bit on frontman. many thanks to you all greeting busracer

I play with the thought of giving my Calibra 16V possibly and to buy an Omega. Actually I had thought of a 2.5 V6 or an MV6. But now I have unfortunately already heard/read often that these models are very problematic. Which problems do they really occur again and again (motor, chassis, electrics …???). I would also take a 16V in doubt, but the probably performance will not tear anything off the plate or see I The wrong thing? I’m on the road at the moment with about 170 hp.If an omi should come into the house it will be converted to LPG/Autogas. I think this should go without problems with all engines or? How reliable are the 16V engines compared to the 6 cylinders? Should an Omega B be with a maximum of 14otkm and before Facelift (I think this looks horrible especially in the interior).What do I have to create for a good one. What does it look like with the B Omis with rust? I know many questions. But when I give off my Cali I want to know that I don’t regret it, because it has put a lot of sweat in it and I am attached to it myself. But it should now be a rational car with space, comfort and little consumption (GAS). Oh yes workshop actually does not exist with me, we do everything ourselves, therefore the costs do not apply (but does not mean that I want to screw more than driving) I hope for many answers which will make my decision much easier for me . Thank you MfG

Hello, I changed from MB C-Class a week ago to Omega B MV6, Built 96. The separation from my Benz was bad enough and now one of the drivers had driven off my Omega while I was lying peacefully in my bed. Of course, driving escapes, so stay at the expense because I have only a happiness obligation. The fun should cost me at Opel now 573,-. Euro. Can one tell me if I will always be able to afford such smallness on my Omega now? So the supply of spare parts for my Benz was much cheaper, as well as the repairs. Crash seal also seems to be leaking and I don’t like to think about the costs for the repair 🙁

Hi, I have now bought an Omega 2,5DT with automatic. Bj 98 with (reputable dealer real) 50,000km. On this forum I came across only after the purchase – bought the car on recommendation of 2 friends, which for me DAU as “experts” go through. But where the 2 are not at all agreed, the question is whether the automatic can tolerate a – um of course quite legal, entry-capable – chip tuning. The engine should “sustain it more loosely”. I find the FAQ very good. The X25DT obviously has the AR 25 transmission. Somewhere in the forum I found that the AR 25 can hold only 250 Nm. That’s what the car has as standard, which speaks against tuning. On the other hand, there are again and again on the edge of threads remarks by people that they are very satisfied with their chip – and loudly sig they have a vending machine. *?* With this old car it would have to be real Erfaru How long does the gearbox last at about 300 Nm? I am very excited about your experiences/opinions.

Hello dear people. I was here the other day and had a few questions for battery, now I have a real problem. The OMI was in the workshop to exchange the clutch. Now he licks ÖL. My FOH told me that the oil tank has a hair crack and that a new one should cost around 300 €!!! I suspect that the apprentice, the oil drain screw has tightened too tight and now a crack has arisen on the socket.I can not prove this and must have a new one installed. My question therefore, can one also take a used one? And how can I try that the FOH does that on kulanz, since the damage has occurred after repair. I am desperate.! Thank you

Hello My friend drives an Opel Omega 2,2l 16V ECOTEC engine built in 2002 with 99 000km of mileage. From time to time, the hydropumps start to clack. Sometimes when it is cold and sometimes when it is warm. Always at different times. On the engine is 10W40. Wouldn’t it be better to drive the 5W40 or 5W30 as it is in the inspection booklet? Or are the hydros defective?bez one of them? I’ve seen that one costs 45€ + VAT. And how do you build the Ecotec engine? From above,or? Mf G Christian

Hello guys, I have to contact you today with a problem of air conditioning. A few days ago my Omega B air conditioning system failed. After a short assessment of the problem I found out that a fuse flew. It is a 30A fuse to terminal 15. Furthermore, the blower and the heatable rear window do not work. After changing the fuse, however, the new 30s also flew again. The OFH suspects a short circuit somewhere to terminal. e 15 and could not help me further except that I should get an appointment to troubleshoot. Does any of you have an idea where I could start searching? For info and tips I would be very grateful.

Hi, have you possibly found a solution for the missing storage possibilities in the Omega? The inserts in the doors as well as the glove compartment are quite unsuitable, because you can’t do very well, especially during the ride not. The glove compartment is almost useless due to its tinyness, because only the operating instructions fit in … In the absence of alternative I use the recess under the hand brake, but this is too small, and the stuff in it is always in the way, if I use the Handbrake wants to use. Not even for the sunglasses there is a suitable place or a suitable compartment. Where do you put your things?

Moin, I changed the ATF yesterday with my Omega A C20NE and set the brake band (5NM+4 turns back) (by the way great that you need a 7/64 inch inner edge for this ) No bigger chunks on the magnet, only the normal abrasion slime, transmission so far OK! Today I did a bigger test drive and noticed that the gearbox is in idle mode, without driving stage, slightly growling. If you go on D, eats then. When driving normally everything is OK, but at m Kickdown he turns up without having grip…! Now I have thought that actually the only place that seemed to me when I assembled Spanish was the lid of the brake belt adjustment mechanism, where practically 2 seals lie on top of each other. The metal seal, which at the same time also seals the housing cover and the cardboard seal of the brake belt servo. Can it be of the symptoms that he loses pressure during the kickdown or so…??? Would you like to hear a few opinions…! D anke